Ramping isn’t my thing personally, but I’ll be very interested in whatever you come up with. The more options we have for dual-switch lights the better.
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I’m just worried all the cool kids are going to move on to the big mcu’s and I’ll be sitting here in the dirt with my 13’s :bigsmile:
I ordered the one that said 2015 version because it looked like the side button didn’t stick out an obnoxious amount (like some others did).
Even from Store.Crelant.com the price is only ~$25, so I’m not sure if they’re “fake” crelants or not. I’m just hoping the quality is as good as Jack’s sample was. They shipped e-packet, so hopefully it will come quickly. If been saving my Nichia 219c for it.
Oh, I totally missed that. It looks like all the hard parts (figuring out what to do) are done! I should probably go for the X6R as a host instead.
The X6R definitely looks like a nicer host overall… and having the switch built in to the piggyback setup would make testing easier. Plus having the charge circuit and indicator LEDs continue working after the mod is an unexpected bonus.
I feel like a fish, flip-flopping around so much today.
TK, the F35 is pretty a sweet little light. The host may still be on sale for $15. There is a ton of space in the driver compartment. You would just need to rig up something to hold the momentary switch. You could use plastic, wood, copper, sugru, etc.
I wouldn't use a long post switch like below. Just stuck it in there to get the concept across.
Hey guys, I finally got an AVR Dragon so I can do HV programming. If any of you have bricked chips you want reset you can send them to me and I'll try and fix them for you (no cost, just shipping).
I've got a few more projects to get out of the way then I'm going to flash my beta firmware from a month or so ago and see if it actually works...it built then, but I never had a chance to try it.
Here's what I would lovingly call a "ghetto mod" 17mm FET + 7135 driver. It's rough around the edges, but it should work for those of you who are early adopters. Still lots of edge clearance.
I created a 17mm mosfet +1 7135 meant for attiny13/ 25/ 45/ 85 (150mil / 208mil). It should have clearance for a programing clip. I’m planning to order a set to test out, then I’ll be happy to share it on oshpark.
LFPAK56 mosfet (for the popular NXP PSMN3R0-30YL), 0805 pads, small pin3 pad for an e-switch, OTC. Could also be used for e-switch + tail clicky lights like the EagleEye X6R.
Just ordered the 3 min for now. Hoping the 25's will be enough memory anyway, but you never know til you start adding. Just hate to waste time trying to save every byte - been there, done that years ago, back in the Z-80 days.
Haven't started yet on expanding modes and config options, but I much prefer an e-switch for doing an advanced UI, and so far, the timing at 8 Mhz is dead on and needs no calibration.
I gotta look into the benefits/features of the ATMEL AVR Dragon. Richard - I should just send you the 10-12 bricked 13's I have though - I will probably have no need for them anyway.
Aww… but that’s half the fun! It’s like sudoko, or haiku, or trying to say something meaningful on twitter.
I figure nearly everything important can probably fit onto an attiny25v, though it’ll still need different firmwares for different types of lights or different styles of interfaces. And the attiny85v can probably fit nearly everything into one build.
But for some other projects, I’m using an ATmega32U4. Like, modding the firmware on a new keyboard.io whenever it shows up. Aside from basic stuff like modifying the keyboard layout, I think I can also make it run my old “water” demoscene effect on the keyboard LEDs. Only 64 pixels, but each one is individually-addressable with an RGB value. Partial derivative vector calculus computed at each keystroke!