I can’t take amp measurements but I compared it to my 3A driven jaws light before I did the mod and it’s still the same brightness after the mod so I don’t see any difference in output at all. It’s still bright as hell.
I suppose if you did see a difference you could just solder the bridge back and go back to where it was at 3-modes. I don't see any difference in mine.
The leg N-3 (GP4) of PIC 12F629 mut be disconnected to get 5 mode
Is good to measure the Amp/h before and after, must be the same.
The leg of PIC microprocesor is conected to ground, you must remove the solder of leg N-3 and the flashligh run in 5 modes, if don't want the mode... solder again this pin and return to 3 mode.
In this pict you can see the solder to remove (red circle)
That's all folks... Easy, fast and cheap.
You can see the pin 3 dsconnected from ground:
I use desoldering wire to remove the tin:
This pict is in HIGH mode before the mod (HIGH-LOW-BLINK)
This one is HIGH after the mod to 5 mode (HIGH-MED-LOW-BLINK-SOS)
3 mode: HIGH--> 2,77A LOW--> 0,089 BLINK--> Not measured
5 mode: HIGH--> 2,83A MED--> 1,38A LOW--> 0,09 BLINK--> Not measured SOS--> Not measured
The small differences are for the voltage of the battery 4,11 -- 4,22 V.
Thanks for adding the pics and tail cap measurements, Heke! It's truly an awesome mod and if anyone who has a 5-mode would be willing to look, I'm betting they can be converted to 3-mode (not that they'd want to). Definitely no need to pay more for the 5-mode as they are likely the same exact product.
There is no drop in high mode current (could be as high as 4.4A on my Sanyo 2600, you need to push it hard into the spring) after modding from 3-mode to 5-mode.
awesome! the lack of medium was kind of annoying on the 3 mode..hi med low would be perfect but ill take the 5 mode for the medium..thanks so much for this!
Flat side goes against driver. I use a pair of smooth jawed slip-joint pliers to press the ring in place working my way around the pill a litle at a time until fully seated. Don’t press the ring fully from one spot or you will distort the ring. Think of it like tightening a head gasket or wheel on your car. If not tight against the driver it will not work reliably or at all.
I used the tip of a small pocket knife and worked in under enough to get a small gap. I then used a small screwdriver and twisted and poppedy it off. It’s not easy to get it started but once you manage to get a gap it’s cake from there.
Hi, I just ordered a UF-2100. I notice that the processor has the same part number as the one pictured in the Trustfire R5-A3 Strobe delete thread (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/2179). I haven't got my light yet to look to see how close the rest of the board looks, but I was wondering if it looked like this mod might work for the UF-2100 as well?
Sorry I just reread my post and found it to be very ambiguous. When I said "if it looked like this mod might work for the UF-2100 as well?", what I meant was the strobe delete mod. The reason I ask is I noticed they are the same chip. It would appear that the chip is single time programmable from the datasheet I found while googling it. I wonder if all of the Chinese driver companies source it from the same place pre-programmed with the same pins controlling the same features and, thus, soldering it the same as in the R5-A3 strobe delete thread would leave us with a 3 mode (low, medium, high).