New Driver: PD68 "DoubleDown" - 17/20/22mm FET+4

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
27

The driver needs it’s own batt+ connection, so for when you’re piggybacking drivers you’ll still need to connect a wire or something to the springpad.

I don’t like when the hole is the only led+ connection or when it interferes with soldering the spring to the driver, but it seems like it would be ok how i have it.

I agree, I was expecting more feedback, but then again it’s only been 4 hours since I posted Rev2

28

Do you have Mattaus cam generator job? Also use I believe it’s called outline in eagle as the cutoff ring for dimensions…I see you are up to rev 2.1 at OSHPark… great job by the way, loving thes dual output builds!

29

I tried Mattaus’ cam, but it wasn’t working with Eagle 7.2. The support people at oshpark sent me a cam job that has been working great.

Question: when I do “hole” instead of “via” the insides won’t be plated, right?

30

I think most people would prefer the look of the version without the hole, so please don’t keep it like this just for me. I like to have holes in these boards, because I think it’s easier to solder and makes a stronger connection when wires are through-hole soldered. I thought having a hole inside of the spring would make bypassing these easier, but I also like the way led4power had the led+ connection on his ld-1 driver, where the hole comes out outside of the spring.

31

Just to be clear, it isn’t really going to work for through-hole soldering. There isn’t any electrical connection on the top of the hole. It is just a pass through for insulated wire to go straight from the tip of the spring up to the mcpcb. Some people like that because you get less resistance from the traces in the driver.

I’ll keep both versions available.

32

Yes drilled hole

33

and that’s all I have to do, right? I saw some people saying I have to draw a circle in the milling layer too

34

No no circle, drill diameter is all, unless they changed things

35

Thanks pilotdog.

36

I’m definitely in favor of this design feature when space permits but skip the led+ pad and let the spring carry only mcu current. Run the bypass straight to the led. You would no longer need so many vias or thick traces for B+ Either.

37

I like the flexibility of still having the LED+ pad. Using the bypass hole is better for performance, but I personally think it’s less convenient, so I’ll probably only use it 20% of the time.

Anyways I cleaned up Rev2.1, so it should be ready to go if someone wanted to order it.

38

Your upgrades look great. Lot more copper and nice looking lines. I meant to say the first time that I really like the way you organized this driver. Very few long traces. Gonna have to order some next time I place an order.

39

Thanks.

It was definitely a learning experience. This is one took about 10 hours of sitting at my desk, but the minion driver only took about 3 hours.

I’m glad others find it useful.

40

Nice work, good to see some new driver designs here!

So it should be possible to use the blf-a6 firmware with this driver, but most likely I would need to change the modes a little bit?

41

Yes.

42

Awesome driver PD! I'll be following this thread for the initial testing feedback :)

43

I don’t like using adapter rings or piggy-backing drivers unless I absolutely have to, so I stretched this out to 20mm and 22mm, and added some features.

20mm and 22mm are identical except for the outside diameter. They have all the same features as the 17mm board, plus:

  • LED+ hole is now directly in the center
  • Attiny45/85 ready
  • Separate pad for Pin 3
  • Zener ready
  • Gate pulldown resistor for FET

Oshpark link for 20mm Oshpark link for 22mm

Also added to the OP

44

Damn, that board looks great. I think you've become the new BLF Board Master. I'm going to place an order now for 20mm.

Thanks PD!

45

Good news! My order of 17mm Rev 2.1 boards came in today.

When you’re staring at a computer screen working in Eagle, it’s easy to forget how tiny these things are. It’s good to get feedback of exactly how Oshpark is going to produce what I’ve drawn on a screen. Overall I’m very pleased, but here are a few notes:

Notes:

  • My Turnigy 20awg silicone wire from RMM fit’s just fine in the through-hole, but anything bigger is a no-go. I’m glad I didn’t make the hole any smaller
  • Everything is a little closer to the edge than I was expecting. There’s still enough room that it shouldn’t be a problem, and I think it is partially Oshpark’s fault (a few things are wonky)
  • in future designs, I’m going to expose more ground ring on the top (I’ve already done this on the 20/22mm boards)
  • small fonts and Oshpark are not friends, so some labels on the board are hard/impossible to read
  • these will work just fine, but next time I’ll make the LED+ pad and FET pad bigger, like Wight did.
46

D1 is only used if you are actually using more than 1 cell, correct? Also, does it hurt anything to populate the bleeder resistor if you do not have a lighted tailcap installed?

Thanks Matt