KronoReview: Eagle Eye X6R

Hhmm, got the light with me @work, but can't do much here with it. I still have the original piggyback driver though @home - I can work with that, then should be able to measure the main board that hold the charging circuitrly and switch. My 2nd X6R is on the way, think in the country now. Oh boy, hope I can remember this eve....

That’s fine. In the mean time, I’ll see if I can get everything else to fit. I was going to add a pad and resistor/diode/cap pad for pin 3, and a pad for your Fet gate-to-ground resistor. Or maybe I’ll forget those, and try to fit the attiny85 instead… we’ll see.

That’s the Ali store linked in this thread above:
Shenzhen jin lang electronics co., LTD
China (Mainland) (Guangdong)

First draft.

All it should need is for the pin size/location to be dialed in and adjust the ground ring around them.

- Single-sided FET+1*7135

- Footprint for ATTINY85V-10SU

- Same pinout as usual

- Maintained at least 1mm “keepout” around the outside

- 2.2mm drill pass-through for LED+ (also standard LED+ pad)

- Pad and series resistor (to connect to the charging circuit so the MCU knows when USB is connected)

  • Pad for resistor on FET between PWM and GND

That is sweet. I was planning on designing this very board myself but I’m still in the VERY early stages of using eagle.
This board has everything! Nice work!

Dang, it sure does look nice! Good to have that pass-thru for LED+ - I've been drilling out the LED+ pad on the wight boards. We found out a little more bout the blinky-mooon mode problem - seems to not occur on some FET's, and occurs on others. Still good to have a pad for the resistor though, as you did. From dthoang:

"I just replaced the FET in the Manker A6 with an NXP PSMN6R5-25YLC and confirmed that the turbo-to-moon flash is gone.

The original FET is marked:
3R030
PBm
1429 C7
9145

My replacement is marked:
6R525L
PBm
1502 B5
1981

NXP has two variants of the 3R030: PSMN3R0-30YL and PSMN3R0-30YLD. The PSMN3R0-30YL is the older model still in production, so I’m guessing this is what Manker used.

The dynamic characteristics (capacitances and delay times) of the PSMN3R0-30YL are considerably worse than that of the PSMN6R5-25YLC.

We might be seeing the effect of dv/dt turn on as described here and here."

For the one I’m building for my grandpa, I made a mildly complicated driver :bigsmile:

It really isn’t quite as bad as it looks

Nice! You’re getting pretty nifty at this Eagle work!

It’s something challenging to do while I wait to hear on job offers.

I’ve been trying to get the grips of it but I’m finding it really difficult. I’m not getting a lot of time to practise either just 30 mins here and there. Hopefully once I get me study all cleared out I can sit down and have a play.

Hmm. I’m no electrical engineer so I can’t explain anything, but I know I’ve only run into the “FET flash” once ever. I’ve been using PSMN3R0-30YLDX

So instead of the gate resistor, should I do a cap in series with the gate?

And how bout them measurements, Tom? :wink:

Diam (square pins), flat surface to flat surface: 0.64 mm

pin to pin (center to center): 2.36 mm

center pin to edge of board (center of pin): 1.55 mm

diameter of stock driver (piggyback board): 19.9 mm

Hope this helps...

I'm not an EE either, just a software/firmware developer. Can't recommend anything else there - waiting for dthoang's recommendations.

Thanks

Ok, so maybe someone can check my math here.

  • My board is built on a grid with a midpoint of (20, 20)
  • The radius of the board is 9.925mm (19.85mm diameter)
  • I took 20 minus 9.925 = 10.075 (outside edge of the board at the midpoint of the vertical axis)
    then added the 1.55mm setback from the edge and set the middle via at (11.625, 20)
  • Then I set the other two via’s on the same horizontal axis 2.36mm apart from each other at (11.625, 22.36) and (11.625, 17.64).
  • A square with 0.64mm sides has a diagonal of 0.905mm, so I set the drill diameter to 1.1mm to give a litle extra wiggle room.

Does all that sound right? If that’s all correct, then this should be ready to go.

I also enlarged the LED+ pad, and added through-holes for Pin 3 and an extra GND wire, so you can solder them through the bottom instead of running a wire around the side.

Edit: Maybe I should clarify. You don’t need to use the LED+ or GND holes, they’re just there for a lower resistance option. The driver will work just fine if all you do is connect the three main pins and add your emitter wires on top.


I think I follow the math, just going over it in my head. Finished off the board nicely with the through holes. Nice job.

Just ordered a few of these, I’ll get testing as soon as they arrive. Just need to sort out the firmware for it using the pin3 input.

Oh you did? I was just going to change something….

Its a really tiny non-functional change, but I’m a little OCD at times.

Appears I’m just too keen!

I updated the post with new pictures and links. You probably can’t even tell what I changed.

Got my 2nd X6R in today from BG - same beat up white box packaging, but breath-taking perfect condition! Love the quality and precision of the manufacturing.

The one I ordered from Aliexpress should be here tomorrow. I’m excited, but now I wish I had started on this driver sooner :~