KronoReview: Eagle Eye X6R

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pilotdog68
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Thanks Tom. Looks like this should work for me, just need to figure out the specifics.

At least for my uses I don’t ever need both an OTC and e-switch. On dual-switch lights I want the rear to be only on/off so it can be a forward clicky and capable of signaling.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

pilotdog68
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Hey Tom, would you mind doing some measuring for me? (My X6R is still in the mail)

I have been having fun playing with Eagle, so I think I want to try doing a drop-in driver that utilizes those pins.

If you are willing, can you measure:
- Diameter of the pins
- Space from pin to pin
- Space from middle pin to edge of the driver board.
- diameter of the original driver

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Tom E
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Hhmm, got the light with me @work, but can't do much here with it. I still have the original piggyback driver though @home - I can work with that, then should be able to measure the main board that hold the charging circuitrly and switch. My 2nd X6R is on the way, think in the country now. Oh boy, hope I can remember this eve....

pilotdog68
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That’s fine. In the mean time, I’ll see if I can get everything else to fit. I was going to add a pad and resistor/diode/cap pad for pin 3, and a pad for your Fet gate-to-ground resistor. Or maybe I’ll forget those, and try to fit the attiny85 instead… we’ll see.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

hank
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Quote:
The EAGLE EYE has been a brand of JinLang company for a long time

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/41392
That’s the Ali store linked in this thread above:
Shenzhen jin lang electronics co., LTD
China (Mainland) (Guangdong)
pilotdog68
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pilotdog68 wrote:
That’s fine. In the mean time, I’ll see if I can get everything else to fit. I was going to add a pad and resistor/diode/cap pad for pin 3, and a pad for your Fet gate-to-ground resistor. Or maybe I’ll forget those, and try to fit the attiny85 instead… we’ll see.

First draft.

All it should need is for the pin size/location to be dialed in and adjust the ground ring around them.

- Single-sided FET+1*7135
- Footprint for ATTINY85V-10SU
- Same pinout as usual
- Maintained at least 1mm “keepout” around the outside
- 2.2mm drill pass-through for LED+ (also standard LED+ pad)
- Pad and series resistor (to connect to the charging circuit so the MCU knows when USB is connected)
- Pad for resistor on FET between PWM and GND

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

pyro1son
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That is sweet. I was planning on designing this very board myself but I’m still in the VERY early stages of using eagle.
This board has everything! Nice work!

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Tom E
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Dang, it sure does look nice! Good to have that pass-thru for LED+ - I've been drilling out the LED+ pad on the wight boards. We found out a little more bout the blinky-mooon mode problem - seems to not occur on some FET's, and occurs on others. Still good to have a pad for the resistor though, as you did. From dthoang:

"I just replaced the FET in the Manker A6 with an NXP PSMN6R5-25YLC and confirmed that the turbo-to-moon flash is gone.

The original FET is marked:
3R030
PBm
1429 C7
9145

My replacement is marked:
6R525L
PBm
1502 B5
1981

NXP has two variants of the 3R030: PSMN3R0-30YL and PSMN3R0-30YLD. The PSMN3R0-30YL is the older model still in production, so I’m guessing this is what Manker used.

The dynamic characteristics (capacitances and delay times) of the PSMN3R0-30YL are considerably worse than that of the PSMN6R5-25YLC.

We might be seeing the effect of dv/dt turn on as described here and here."

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For the one I’m building for my grandpa, I made a mildly complicated driver :bigsmile:

It really isn’t quite as bad as it looks

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Nice! You’re getting pretty nifty at this Eagle work!

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pyro1son wrote:
Nice! You’re getting pretty nifty at this Eagle work!

It’s something challenging to do while I wait to hear on job offers.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I’ve been trying to get the grips of it but I’m finding it really difficult. I’m not getting a lot of time to practise either just 30 mins here and there. Hopefully once I get me study all cleared out I can sit down and have a play.

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Tom E wrote:

Dang, it sure does look nice! Good to have that pass-thru for LED+ – I’ve been drilling out the LED+ pad on the wight boards. We found out a little more bout the blinky-mooon mode problem – seems to not occur on some FET’s, and occurs on others. Still good to have a pad for the resistor though, as you did.


Hmm. I’m no electrical engineer so I can’t explain anything, but I know I’ve only run into the “FET flash” once ever. I’ve been using PSMN3R0-30YLDX

So instead of the gate resistor, should I do a cap in series with the gate?

And how bout them measurements, Tom? Wink

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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pilotdog68 wrote:
Hey Tom, would you mind doing some measuring for me? (My X6R is still in the mail) I have been having fun playing with Eagle, so I think I want to try doing a drop-in driver that utilizes those pins. If you are willing, can you measure: - Diameter of the pins - Space from pin to pin - Space from middle pin to edge of the driver board. - diameter of the original driver

Diam (square pins), flat surface to flat surface: 0.64 mm

pin to pin (center to center): 2.36 mm

center pin to edge of board (center of pin): 1.55 mm

diameter of stock driver (piggyback board): 19.9 mm

Hope this helps...

 

I'm not an EE either, just a software/firmware developer. Can't recommend anything else there - waiting for dthoang's recommendations.

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Quote:
Diam (square pins), flat surface to flat surface: 0.64 mm

pin to pin (center to center): 2.36 mm

center pin to edge of board (center of pin): 1.55 mm

diameter of stock driver (piggyback board): 19.9 mm


Thanks

Ok, so maybe someone can check my math here.

  • My board is built on a grid with a midpoint of (20, 20)

  • The radius of the board is 9.925mm (19.85mm diameter)
  • I took 20 minus 9.925 = 10.075 (outside edge of the board at the midpoint of the vertical axis)
    then added the 1.55mm setback from the edge and set the middle via at (11.625, 20)
  • Then I set the other two via’s on the same horizontal axis 2.36mm apart from each other at (11.625, 22.36) and (11.625, 17.64).
  • A square with 0.64mm sides has a diagonal of 0.905mm, so I set the drill diameter to 1.1mm to give a litle extra wiggle room.

Does all that sound right? If that’s all correct, then this should be ready to go.

I also enlarged the LED+ pad, and added through-holes for Pin 3 and an extra GND wire, so you can solder them through the bottom instead of running a wire around the side.

Edit: Maybe I should clarify. You don’t need to use the LED+ or GND holes, they’re just there for a lower resistance option. The driver will work just fine if all you do is connect the three main pins and add your emitter wires on top.


My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I think I follow the math, just going over it in my head. Finished off the board nicely with the through holes. Nice job.

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pyro1son
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Just ordered a few of these, I’ll get testing as soon as they arrive. Just need to sort out the firmware for it using the pin3 input.

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pyro1son wrote:
Just ordered a few of these, I’ll get testing as soon as they arrive. Just need to sort out the firmware for it using the pin3 input.

Oh you did? I was just going to change something….

Its a really tiny non-functional change, but I’m a little OCD at times.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Appears I’m just too keen!

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I updated the post with new pictures and links. You probably can’t even tell what I changed.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Got my 2nd X6R in today from BG - same beat up white box packaging, but breath-taking perfect condition! Love the quality and precision of the manufacturing.

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Tom E wrote:

Got my 2nd X6R in today from BG – same beat up white box packaging, but breath-taking perfect condition! Love the quality and precision of the manufacturing.


The one I ordered from Aliexpress should be here tomorrow. I’m excited, but now I wish I had started on this driver sooner :~

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Looks like I’ll be getting my board a bit sooner than I expected!

Quote:
Hi! We had some free room on one of our Super Swift Service panels,
so we took the opportunity to give you an upgrade.

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My X6R was delivered today, here are my impressions.

Likes:
- Ano is nice, I like it better than the super matte stuff
- the more aggressive knurling is very nice
- side-button is nicely recessed
- USB cover seems very robust and well-designed
- perfect application for a forward-clicky
- the stock UI is actually pretty nice! L>M>H>T with a good Low and well-spaced altogether. Hidden strobe by holding the side switch, and “soft” off with a double click. Mode memory when you turn off on the tail.

Dislikes:
- Clip nubs stick out too much
- tailstanding is a bit precarious like the original X6
- there is some audible whine on all of the middle modes
- works with normal-ish protected cells, but not the super long ones
- I know there had to be room for the extra electronics, but I still wish it had deeper cooling fins

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Do you think it's a great deal though for $22-$24? I think it's outstanding. Compared to say a XinTD C8 we paid like $30-$32 for, this is looking real good.

 True - the stock UI isn't so bad, agree. Im' not a fan of the dbl-click, but it's nice to be able to turn it OFF quickly from the side switch. I've tested them out at about 900 lumens stock, and they use the 380 mA 7135's.

It seems they really thought about the placement of the side switch - it would be hard I'd think to accidentally engage it.

Agree bout the wobbly stand, though I think it's better balanced than the X6's, not as head heavy.

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I’m very impressed with mine. Mine works with protected cells tho.

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Tom E wrote:

Do you think it’s a great deal though for $22-$24? I think it’s outstanding


Yes absolutely.

One of the few lights I would recommend to a newbie.
Doesn’t even really need modding, but I will anyways (that’s all the fun!)

Btw, it doesn’t work with protected 26f’s, but it does with protected 30b’s. The 26f’s are just a micrometer too long. Which is fine because I always use protected 30b’s in lights with built-in charging.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Hhmm, maybe the driver side spring is just too stiff? Mine is real stiff but it has the bypass wire in it, so not sure of the stock setup. A softer one would collapse, giving way to pressure. Hard to say what's really goin on there. Could even replace the driver spring with a brass button maybe, or removed it altogether - button top cells don't need a spring if you still get good compression on the tail spring.

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One idea that might be useful could have a scrap able batt + spring pad so the board could be used for other projects? Just putting ideas out there if it’s stupid or a pain to use just ignore me.

pilotdog68 wrote:

Thanks

Ok, so maybe someone can check my math here.

  • My board is built on a grid with a midpoint of (20, 20)

  • The radius of the board is 9.925mm (19.85mm diameter)
  • I took 20 minus 9.925 = 10.075 (outside edge of the board at the midpoint of the vertical axis)
    then added the 1.55mm setback from the edge and set the middle via at (11.625, 20)
  • Then I set the other two via’s on the same horizontal axis 2.36mm apart from each other at (11.625, 22.36) and (11.625, 17.64).
  • A square with 0.64mm sides has a diagonal of 0.905mm, so I set the drill diameter to 1.1mm to give a litle extra wiggle room.

Does all that sound right? If that’s all correct, then this should be ready to go.

I also enlarged the LED+ pad, and added through-holes for Pin 3 and an extra GND wire, so you can solder them through the bottom instead of running a wire around the side.

Edit: Maybe I should clarify. You don’t need to use the LED+ or GND holes, they’re just there for a lower resistance option. The driver will work just fine if all you do is connect the three main pins and add your emitter wires on top.

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pilotdog68
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Not a stupid idea. In fact, it already has a big led+ pour under the mask on the bottom

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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