My board is built on a grid with a midpoint of (20, 20)
The radius of the board is 9.925mm (19.85mm diameter)
I took 20 minus 9.925 = 10.075 (outside edge of the board at the midpoint of the vertical axis)
then added the 1.55mm setback from the edge and set the middle via at (11.625, 20)
Then I set the other two via’s on the same horizontal axis 2.36mm apart from each other at (11.625, 22.36) and (11.625, 17.64).
A square with 0.64mm sides has a diagonal of 0.905mm, so I set the drill diameter to 1.1mm to give a litle extra wiggle room.
Does all that sound right? If that’s all correct, then this should be ready to go.
I also enlarged the LED+ pad, and added through-holes for Pin 3 and an extra GND wire, so you can solder them through the bottom instead of running a wire around the side.
Edit: Maybe I should clarify. You don’t need to use the LED+ or GND holes, they’re just there for a lower resistance option. The driver will work just fine if all you do is connect the three main pins and add your emitter wires on top.
Got my 2nd X6R in today from BG - same beat up white box packaging, but breath-taking perfect condition! Love the quality and precision of the manufacturing.
My X6R was delivered today, here are my impressions.
Likes:
- Ano is nice, I like it better than the super matte stuff
- the more aggressive knurling is very nice
- side-button is nicely recessed
- USB cover seems very robust and well-designed
- perfect application for a forward-clicky
the stock UI is actually pretty nice! L>M>H>T with a good Low and well-spaced altogether. Hidden strobe by holding the side switch, and “soft” off with a double click. Mode memory when you turn off on the tail.
Dislikes:
- Clip nubs stick out too much
- tailstanding is a bit precarious like the original X6
- there is some audible whine on all of the middle modes
- works with normal-ish protected cells, but not the super long ones
I know there had to be room for the extra electronics, but I still wish it had deeper cooling fins
Do you think it's a great deal though for $22-$24? I think it's outstanding. Compared to say a XinTD C8 we paid like $30-$32 for, this is looking real good.
True - the stock UI isn't so bad, agree. Im' not a fan of the dbl-click, but it's nice to be able to turn it OFF quickly from the side switch. I've tested them out at about 900 lumens stock, and they use the 380 mA 7135's.
It seems they really thought about the placement of the side switch - it would be hard I'd think to accidentally engage it.
Agree bout the wobbly stand, though I think it's better balanced than the X6's, not as head heavy.
One of the few lights I would recommend to a newbie.
Doesn’t even really need modding, but I will anyways (that’s all the fun!)
Btw, it doesn’t work with protected 26f’s, but it does with protected 30b’s. The 26f’s are just a micrometer too long. Which is fine because I always use protected 30b’s in lights with built-in charging.
Hhmm, maybe the driver side spring is just too stiff? Mine is real stiff but it has the bypass wire in it, so not sure of the stock setup. A softer one would collapse, giving way to pressure. Hard to say what's really goin on there. Could even replace the driver spring with a brass button maybe, or removed it altogether - button top cells don't need a spring if you still get good compression on the tail spring.
One idea that might be useful could have a scrap able batt + spring pad so the board could be used for other projects? Just putting ideas out there if it’s stupid or a pain to use just ignore me.
Dang - brought in my new stock X6R to work today, and it's gone, sold! I threw in a battery and holster - I miss it already . Now I have to order more.
You know - more I think bout it, the better your custom board looks - it would make it sooo much easier to mod this light, plus with the support for the 45/85 footprint. On your post #135, I think the math all looks good, though I'm not experienced at all in PC board layouts. Just hope you got in your X6R to verify my #'s - now I'm worried if you are posting/ordering from OSHPark based on just my #'s.
Let me know when you feel confident enough to order the boards, or maybe you did already...
I’m actually going to use a different driver in mine (but still the same pin locations), though pyro ordered 2 or 3 days ago i think.
I did a quick check when I got my X6R, and everything was matching up with your numbers, so I’m not too worried.
edit: I just realized my through-hole for Pin3 isn’t in the optimal place, it’ll be very close to the USB connector, but with thin enough wire I think it should be fine.