Nichia 219C, testing a 5000K 83CRI emitter, comparing with a XP-G2 S4 2B and other leds

A better side on view showing how flat the surface is. Takes some precision razor work to slice the last stuck bits off.

I like the color of the one on the left. Is that the Nichia?

Yes it is. I’ll edit the post, I should have had that bit of info in there.

A Nichia NVSW219C on the board with an XP-G2 S4 2B next to it, both dedomed.

Excellent work djozz and Dale! I gotta get some of this. I know I'm late to the party, been seeing things, just didn't get the whole picture till I read through this.

I've been frustrated with the de-domed XP-G2's for a long time now - hope we can find a good solution with good results to de-dome these.

Dale?

I’m pretty sure Dale is DBcustom.

I put a stainless collar on the 1504 with the Nichia. With the collar it makes 383kcd. A 17.4% increase.

Tom got excited and missed that it was Henry doing the de-domes. lol

Y’all all know how easy it is on these forums to get discombobulated and post a comment slightly wrong, or a lot wrong, now don’t ya? :stuck_out_tongue:

Tom, I haven’t done any testing to speak of on the Nichia other than wire 4 of to a harness and run em ragged. :wink:

It’s nice to know that the Nichia has a nice tint when dedomed. The one on the right has Dean Martin’s complection :smiley:

Actually I thought I was staying with the tone of the thread, as earlier. You were the first to post results in a real light build/mod, so I thought, and went thru hoops to get the 219C early on. I know djozz, of course, did the incredible testing and presentation - again, phenomenal effort!

I ended up ordering a few from Cutter, because I saw other LED's of interest you don't find at MtnE or IOS: XM-L2 U4 1A and XM-L2 U2 3D. The AUS dollar prices are a bit scary, but once you see the PP transaction with the currency conversion to USD, not too bad, in AUS dollars (total US: $62.83). I should have gone over $100 AUS though (stupid me), to get the free shipping...

Name Unit Price Quantity Total
Cree XML-2 Cool White U2 3D 6.99 3 20.97
Cree XML-2 Cool White U4 1A 7.29 3 21.87
Cutter-NVSL219C-20-E5 4.69 6 28.14
Sub Total: 70.98
Shipping: 14.10
Handling: 3.40
Grand Total: 88.48

Ok, I just put one of these in a S2+ with FET+1 driver and I’m seeing 7,5A with 25Rs at 4,05V :bigsmile:

Actually, this is a little bit too much according to the chart in the OP.

Using a protected Keeppower 3400mAh cell (this is a non IMR cell) at 4,08V I get 4,85A.

Before I swapped the emitter it had a dedomed XP-L V6 3D in it, with this LED I was seeing around 4,8A with the 25R.

^ Nice. How would you compare the output of the two (as best you can based on memory and not direct side by side comparison)?

The dedomed emitter really has a lot more throw but a not so nice tint.

I compared it with a BLF A6 with 5A tint. Both have nearly the same reflector so they are about the same regarding throw.

In the A6 I have to use IMR cells to get the maximum from the emitter but with the 219C I can use standard high capacity cells.

I really like the 5A tint so the 219Cs are a little bit to cold for me. They are around 5000k.

But this are first time impressions. I will see how I like this emitter. I have a few lights where I want to try this emitter. One small AA light, one small AAA light and also in a triple with a 18500 battery.

Thank you for your impressions finges. I like 5A tints too, but my wife is very partial to cool tints. I'm hoping this emitter may be a happy medium for us as I like the 219B cooler tint.

  1. Purchase BLF A6
  2. Purchase Nichia 219C
  3. Put 219C in A6
  4. Admire tint in low modes
  5. Go TURBO!
  6. Experience “Oh crap!” moment when 219C blue-shifts
  7. Experience “Oh crap! Oh crap!” moment when the switch goes mushy and doesn’t work
  8. Quickly unscrew tailcap
  9. Calmly put everything down and vow to re-asses tomorrow

I never saw a clear blue-shift so you went over 10A there

^ I think it will shift at lower current if heat sinking isn't as good as your set up. I put a 219C in a TN31 a couple nights ago. I did a decent job of installing it, but could have done a better job. I used a MaxToch DTP MCPCB that was just big enough diameter to clear the reflector base. When I went up through the modes it dramatically shifted and dimmed some on the highest mode. When I went directly from standby to the highest mode, it would start out strong and properly tinted and then shift and dim smoothly to a more purple color. When I would switch back to the next mode down, the tint would smoothly return to normal.

The highest mode on my TN31 is probably somewhere in 6 to 7 amps territory. I didn't measure at the time.

I recall reading that but didn’t expect the results I got. Oh well. It’s just further proof that a FET is the wrong driver for this LED. I think I have an Omten left in my parts bin so I can at least repair my A6.

If it turns blue immediately after switch-on, the quality of the heatsinking is not involved, if it turns blue only after couple of seconds, heat sinking may have an influence.