A better side on view showing how flat the surface is. Takes some precision razor work to slice the last stuck bits off.
I like the color of the one on the left. Is that the Nichia?
Yes it is. I’ll edit the post, I should have had that bit of info in there.
A Nichia NVSW219C on the board with an XP-G2 S4 2B next to it, both dedomed.
Excellent work djozz and Dale! I gotta get some of this. I know I'm late to the party, been seeing things, just didn't get the whole picture till I read through this.
I've been frustrated with the de-domed XP-G2's for a long time now - hope we can find a good solution with good results to de-dome these.
Dale?
I’m pretty sure Dale is DBcustom.
I put a stainless collar on the 1504 with the Nichia. With the collar it makes 383kcd. A 17.4% increase.
Tom got excited and missed that it was Henry doing the de-domes. lol
Y’all all know how easy it is on these forums to get discombobulated and post a comment slightly wrong, or a lot wrong, now don’t ya?
Tom, I haven’t done any testing to speak of on the Nichia other than wire 4 of to a harness and run em ragged.
It’s nice to know that the Nichia has a nice tint when dedomed. The one on the right has Dean Martin’s complection
Actually I thought I was staying with the tone of the thread, as earlier. You were the first to post results in a real light build/mod, so I thought, and went thru hoops to get the 219C early on. I know djozz, of course, did the incredible testing and presentation - again, phenomenal effort!
I ended up ordering a few from Cutter, because I saw other LED's of interest you don't find at MtnE or IOS: XM-L2 U4 1A and XM-L2 U2 3D. The AUS dollar prices are a bit scary, but once you see the PP transaction with the currency conversion to USD, not too bad, in AUS dollars (total US: $62.83). I should have gone over $100 AUS though (stupid me), to get the free shipping...
Name | Unit Price | Quantity | Total | |
Cree XML-2 Cool White U2 3D | 6.99 | 3 | 20.97 | |
Cree XML-2 Cool White U4 1A | 7.29 | 3 | 21.87 | |
Cutter-NVSL219C-20-E5 | 4.69 | 6 | 28.14 | |
Sub Total: | 70.98 | |||
Shipping: | 14.10 | |||
Handling: | 3.40 | |||
Grand Total: | 88.48 |
Ok, I just put one of these in a S2+ with FET+1 driver and I’m seeing 7,5A with 25Rs at 4,05V :bigsmile:
Actually, this is a little bit too much according to the chart in the OP.
Using a protected Keeppower 3400mAh cell (this is a non IMR cell) at 4,08V I get 4,85A.
Before I swapped the emitter it had a dedomed XP-L V6 3D in it, with this LED I was seeing around 4,8A with the 25R.
^ Nice. How would you compare the output of the two (as best you can based on memory and not direct side by side comparison)?
The dedomed emitter really has a lot more throw but a not so nice tint.
I compared it with a BLF A6 with 5A tint. Both have nearly the same reflector so they are about the same regarding throw.
In the A6 I have to use IMR cells to get the maximum from the emitter but with the 219C I can use standard high capacity cells.
I really like the 5A tint so the 219Cs are a little bit to cold for me. They are around 5000k.
But this are first time impressions. I will see how I like this emitter. I have a few lights where I want to try this emitter. One small AA light, one small AAA light and also in a triple with a 18500 battery.
Thank you for your impressions finges. I like 5A tints too, but my wife is very partial to cool tints. I'm hoping this emitter may be a happy medium for us as I like the 219B cooler tint.
- Purchase BLF A6
- Purchase Nichia 219C
- Put 219C in A6
- Admire tint in low modes
- Go TURBO!
- Experience “Oh crap!” moment when 219C blue-shifts
- Experience “Oh crap! Oh crap!” moment when the switch goes mushy and doesn’t work
- Quickly unscrew tailcap
- Calmly put everything down and vow to re-asses tomorrow
I never saw a clear blue-shift so you went over 10A there
^ I think it will shift at lower current if heat sinking isn't as good as your set up. I put a 219C in a TN31 a couple nights ago. I did a decent job of installing it, but could have done a better job. I used a MaxToch DTP MCPCB that was just big enough diameter to clear the reflector base. When I went up through the modes it dramatically shifted and dimmed some on the highest mode. When I went directly from standby to the highest mode, it would start out strong and properly tinted and then shift and dim smoothly to a more purple color. When I would switch back to the next mode down, the tint would smoothly return to normal.
The highest mode on my TN31 is probably somewhere in 6 to 7 amps territory. I didn't measure at the time.
I recall reading that but didn’t expect the results I got. Oh well. It’s just further proof that a FET is the wrong driver for this LED. I think I have an Omten left in my parts bin so I can at least repair my A6.
If it turns blue immediately after switch-on, the quality of the heatsinking is not involved, if it turns blue only after couple of seconds, heat sinking may have an influence.