Code now public! BLF A6 FET+7135 Light. Short 18350 tubes and Unanodized Lights Available

The circuit is the cap and the resistance it bleeds down through, if the resistance goes down with heat the timing will get shorter also.

What was not working with 25R and what did you do to fix it?

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I actually think that they are!

Obviously the first batch was rushed, and now we are seeing the spotty QC as a result of it.

I am down for four, but have thus far only ordered one. - Received (3D), and I am very happy with it - But some it seems are not so lucky…

I just thought that one would be enough to play with to start, and wanted to see how things would go before I order the other three. - I think that was a good decision.

Many, Many thanks to all involved for Continuously working to make this GB Right! - It can’t be all that much fun :frowning:

Thank you,
-Chuck

I ordered several aditional 3d binned ones:

Well, this aint a XLP 3D but smth like 3C, kinda disappointing- the left is IOS V6 3D

1A ones were just fine though

One of them dont have a moon mode, just a blank space, i will reflash the driver but for someone it could be an issue

Many thanks to the TK for that lovely all arround firmware! And the OP ofc

Mitko - If a reflash brings back the moon...please let us know. Actually if you could directly flash TK's UI and tell us that would be a big help to all.

Will do that- its actualy a black space instead of the moon mode, only on one of 3 lights, maybe a glitch or smth- i usualy get glitches like that when i overhear the a13 while soldering

FWIW, the color temperature will change depending on what mode it’s in. This is a side effect of having two power channels at very different amps.

So, it can be tricky to compare the tint against other lights unless they run at similar power levels and have a similar type of AR coating on their lenses.

I’ve had a time to look at my 3 lights I’ve ordered. One of the lights I have to tighten as tight as I can to get it to work. If I put this tail cap on the other lights they do not work at all unless I put a shim the switch. I’m not sure if I received 2 short body tubes or 1 short tail cap. The length of my body tubes are 2.732, 2.723, and 2.730. I also measured the tail caps from the thumb indent to the end and tail cap that is giving me problems is a little shorter. The tail cap measurements are .998, 1.000, and 1.000. The tail cap that measures .998 only works when the 2.732 body tube, but i have to crank the tail cap as tight as I can to get the light to work and have it not flicker.

That really sounds like a tube issue to me - Too short.

Thanks,
-Chuck

That’s a perfect illustration why having a production that respects and understands specified tight tolerances matters.

There you have one that is less than .01 too short on one part, and less than .01 too long on the other piece, and — put them together, and hey, this one sample works fine.

Checking one product fails to detect the problem — too much variation around the spec — because some combinations of parts will average out to working properly.
Too much on one part, too little on the other, result — it lights up if you happen to get those pieces put together.

That’s why taking a real sample of the products — not just one, not just one they know works, definitely not one prepared to show as a “sample” — is what you need to check them.

Measure, write down the result, find out how variable the work is.

Given sloppy work with overmuch variability, the workaround — assemblers fishing through the bins looking for a slightly longer tailcap to go on a slightly shorter body tube, trying to make the damn thing light up — isn’t the right fix.

Want to build a modern nation that doesn’t melt down and fall apart?
Here’s how: production tolerance variability specification interaction - Google Search

What are other people’s tubes measured at? My issue seems to be that one of my tail caps. Unless all 3 of my body tubes are too short. If someone just ordered 1 light then this issue may be missed. The only reason I noticed it was because I ordered more then 1 light. I was wondering why one of my lights I had to crank the tail cap as tight as I could to make the light work. When I put the tail cap in the other lights the only way I could get it to work was by putting in a paperclip shim in the tail cap. If people order the 18350 tube the light may not work, but it works with their 18650 tube.

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Re the 18350 - You have made a very good point.

Thanks!
-Chuck

What is the proper length and tolerance for body tube suppose to be?

Hi bugsy36 and Mitko.
I don’t know if Mitko has the same issue like me and some others. If so, the bike flasher for example wouldn’t work as it should (only flashing, no continiuous “background” light”), and the battcheck mode wouldn’t function, just like the moon mode. If that’s the case it’s very likely a problem with the 7135 solder joints. When I received my light and experienced that issue, my first thought was I am going to reflash it. TK asked for some macro shots of the driver and when I posted some, DEL suggested that the 7135 solder joints could be bad by the looks of it. And he was right. With that kind of issue, reflashing the driver wouldn’t do anything to get rid of that.

Has anybody measured the tail cap threads on the tube,from the end of the threads to where the tailcap seats? Seems like if the whole tube was too short it would be noticeable. The tailcap would be hard to twist on because of the springs compressing and there would be a gap between the body and tailcap.

When I put a unprotected battery in mine I can barely feel the springs compress, I tried a protected battery and I can feel the springs compressing more but the tailcap is still easy to put on.

All 4 that I got work great, but I don't have anything to measure mine to post for comparison.

I measured the tailcaps from the brass ring to the top and the I got 4.3, 4.4, and 4.6. The tailcap I’m having and issue with is the tailcap that measured 4.6.

Well, there’s a lesson here — as always!

We hear a lot of fuss about charging variations of a tenth of a volt, when the accuracy of the meters being used is likely no better than that.

Now we’re on the receiving end of a production process that — as illustrated by matching tubes to tailcaps — needs not just accuracy but also repeatability

We can hope someone on the manufacturing end knows how to do that and just didn’t get consulted, or listened to.

On the receiving end — well, what can we learn? Anyone competent in machining and QA/QC around to start a topic? I’d love to read about this.

Lots of info on the Internet of course. But that’s the Internet.
——————-quote starts here——————

————quote ends here — see link for more, or find something better ——————-

Dunno how they do it at Manker or wherever the pieces are coming from.

This is to try to learn something about how we should do it on our end —- because we can make some pretty wild claims here if we don’t know the limits of the tools we measure with.

Just sayin’

Sorry for drifting into Meta stuff. Figured it needs to be said somewhere. Hope someone knowledgeable can start a thread and port this stuff over.

Quality control over at Manker must be going to test each light now, the amount of money someone is losing with these errors is too much for Banggood to think about handling, I’m sure. I wonder if they will be mixing and matching the parts, to try to get everything to work. Or will we see shims added in the next deliveries upon resuming? :~

I hope they do the right thing.

I hope so too…

This mixing and matching of parts to get the light to work is going to cause some peoples 18350 tube not to work.