I do have a question. Will they up the amps ? And how much throw will it give since its been changed to the XP-L HI
The amps I don’t think so right now at the price but the throw with the dedomed XM-L2 U2 in the one I have is at least 500 yards and this XP-L HI is supposed to be even better. Here is a couple of beamshots from mine with XM-L2 U2
400yds (high)
400yds zoomed a bit
Count me in.
I vote for SE (Special Edition)
A couple of questions:
What type of circuitry?
Maximum current?
Color temperature?
Oooh I hope it’s neutral white !! I don’t mind the engraving lol any will do! Nice pics but if they do up the amps I will love it more!! Hehe
Buck driver I think is what they will use
you would have to ask one of the modders on max current but I think it is 3A and 10W ? on the XP-L HI
and I will ask for at least 2 tint options if possible
Nice!
Here is what it looks like. (Pic is a link to stock unit product page. The GB SE version will have the XP-L Hi emitter).
I have two of the SN6X-2X lights, it’s heavier big brother, and they are my go-to thrower lights. This will be a nice addition. Put me down for one!
The XP-L Hi has the same die size as the XM-L2, so by design the throw will not be better, only if the XP-L Hi has a better bin. But in that case think 10 or so percent, not 50.
You may be right, and I am not arguing one way or the other, I am by far no expert with these things.
I am just going by what I was told, by the company, that in stock form the XP-L HI will perform better then the Xm-L2 U2, although dedomed the XM-L2 is about the same in throw as the XP-L HI
so I figured why not get the one that already performs best without having to do any mods.
In case the comparison was XP-L Hi with domed XM-L2: I agree :-)
It’s all about the tint.
If I spent that much money on a light, I don’t want a greenish or yellowish tint.
I want pure 5000k of light with a good CRI 
I like the neutral myself, but there are those who like warm tints and those who like cool tints,i am going to try for at least neutral and cool and hopefully warm also.
You might ask mudgripz to help with this project—I believe he has had many dealings with Maxtoch.
Already had that thought myself, thanks for the heads up though.
Please put me down for one! Thanks!
Is there a particular reason why?
IMHO, L-M-H would be a mistake. This is a thrower/weapon light. Strappin’ this to a rifle (or not) and wanting it to light up your target…and it comes on ‘L’ would be underwhelming and a complete bummer. :~
This is a thrower and it should throw-from-the-get-go! :exmark:
[quote=robo819]
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3A is Very low for our BLF SE standards.
Case in point: The little BLF SE A6 does Over 5 amps with a XP-L. - I have one and it hasn’t started any fires, yet:-)
I see Upping the Amps as being A Must!
3A is for continuous running in a lighting fixture somewhere out there in the dark, cruel world, not something that belongs in a Flashaholics light:-)
You probably should mention this to Maxtoch right off the bat, as they may need some convincing about how the BLF rolls!
Thank you,
-Chuck
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Hi Krono,
It’s probably just my psychological makeup.
I dunno - Most of my lights start on low, one exception being my Convoy L4. - Bugs the hell out of me, as I want to have something to look forward to, not to just go right to the Max out of the gate, with all the other modes then seeming Anti-Climatic. - It does have mode memory, so I could start on low, but then High is the next in line. - Just don’t like it that way.
As for the rifle thing: I can only agree 100% with you there - I just don’t play that game. - Pistols, Rifles, Shotguns - Love em all! - Just don’t ever see the need for a light on any of them… Hard enough for me to hit what I want in the daytime:-)
I can see that I am going to be badly outnumbered here with my L-M-H request, so I will now withdraw it.
Thanks, and have a great day!
-Chuck
[quote=chuckhov]
They will negotiate better I think as we get closer to the minimum quanities but I already have a message in about amps and tint options so I will let everyone know if I hear anything about those
Thanks Robo!
-Chuck
Going from 3A to 5A gives 40% more light (percepted by your eyes as 20%) at the cost of 80% more power. This extra power comes with a huge effect on runtime and heat-management.
There is always a trade-off and the closer you get to maximum output, the more unfavorable the trade-off becomes. My personal flashaholic idea of where I think it really becomes unfavorable is 80% of the maxium output, for non-flashaholics that would be more like 65%. In case of the XP-L(Hi), 80% of maxiumum output is at 4.5 amps.