Nichia 219C, testing a 5000K 83CRI emitter, comparing with a XP-G2 S4 2B and other leds

The dedomed emitter really has a lot more throw but a not so nice tint.

I compared it with a BLF A6 with 5A tint. Both have nearly the same reflector so they are about the same regarding throw.

In the A6 I have to use IMR cells to get the maximum from the emitter but with the 219C I can use standard high capacity cells.

I really like the 5A tint so the 219Cs are a little bit to cold for me. They are around 5000k.

But this are first time impressions. I will see how I like this emitter. I have a few lights where I want to try this emitter. One small AA light, one small AAA light and also in a triple with a 18500 battery.

Thank you for your impressions finges. I like 5A tints too, but my wife is very partial to cool tints. I'm hoping this emitter may be a happy medium for us as I like the 219B cooler tint.

  1. Purchase BLF A6
  2. Purchase Nichia 219C
  3. Put 219C in A6
  4. Admire tint in low modes
  5. Go TURBO!
  6. Experience “Oh crap!” moment when 219C blue-shifts
  7. Experience “Oh crap! Oh crap!” moment when the switch goes mushy and doesn’t work
  8. Quickly unscrew tailcap
  9. Calmly put everything down and vow to re-asses tomorrow

I never saw a clear blue-shift so you went over 10A there

^ I think it will shift at lower current if heat sinking isn't as good as your set up. I put a 219C in a TN31 a couple nights ago. I did a decent job of installing it, but could have done a better job. I used a MaxToch DTP MCPCB that was just big enough diameter to clear the reflector base. When I went up through the modes it dramatically shifted and dimmed some on the highest mode. When I went directly from standby to the highest mode, it would start out strong and properly tinted and then shift and dim smoothly to a more purple color. When I would switch back to the next mode down, the tint would smoothly return to normal.

The highest mode on my TN31 is probably somewhere in 6 to 7 amps territory. I didn't measure at the time.

I recall reading that but didn’t expect the results I got. Oh well. It’s just further proof that a FET is the wrong driver for this LED. I think I have an Omten left in my parts bin so I can at least repair my A6.

If it turns blue immediately after switch-on, the quality of the heatsinking is not involved, if it turns blue only after couple of seconds, heat sinking may have an influence.

If you bypassed the resistors to get the 6-7A, wondering if the XM-L2 Vf was an influence for the 6-7A, then with the low Vf of the 219C, the amps kicks up. Just a thought, dunno for sure how that TN31 driver works with the resistor mods we make. Initially modding the TN31, we added resistors, then I believe vinh was the first to bypass them, and we all changed to the bypass method - well proven, seemed to hold up well. I did several each way.

^ Good point. Since that TN31 driver is also voltage limited (on output), maybe the higher Vf of the XM-L2 was restricting current.

I will check that out when I go into the light next time. Might be this weekend.

I can say the 219C with it's dome created a nice beam profile and tint. Throw was not stellar. It measured some where around 150 - 160kcd (I think it was 156), but I didn't put any effort into focus. Just wanted to get a general feel for what it would do.

That shows the 219C really has low enough forward voltage to get as much current as one wants with one cell. Time to stack more 7135s on a Q Lite. Direct drive turbo is for Crees!

It sounds like the 219C should do okay with a FET as long as it only uses low-amp cells like the NCR18650A. I think. Does this sound right?

I want to put one in my CNQG brass 18650, but it only has room for a single-sided driver… so that means 4x7135 or a FET+1. Does a FET+1 and NCR18650A sound like a safe combination?

Nichia did an evil thing: stacking is back from the grave :evil:

BTW, where does all that extra voltage burn off… in the FET itself? In the emitter? Somewhere else?

With DD drivers extra voltage is burned off in LED,since DD is just low resistance switch;with linear drivers extra voltage is burned off in driver itself.

Just did a very quick and dirty check with a 219C, FET driver and a NCR18650B at 4.12V: 5.45A

I put a 219c into a 1504 with a 16x7135 Q.lite and it pulls 6A with ease from an Efest Purple 3500mAh 26650.

Excellent work, btw! From the beamshot earlier you posted, looks like the 219C doesn't tint shift much when de-domed.

Is this the same one you reported earlier with the SS collar? It sounds like it would do the same on a KK cell. I can fit the KK 26700 cells in my 1405's - the 26700's have high capacity and pretty good low resistance.

What's the SS collar? I recall discussions - can't recall if it helped much. I tested one hand made by O-L way back but didn't get any noticeable improvements.

Yes, same light from the earlier results I posted. The SS collar adds about 20% to the output from most of my testing.

Thanks! That sounds pretty feasible…

Should end up at around 1240 emitter lumens, according to the chart. Close to the maximum but, more importantly, on the left side of the output curve. So I think the main remaining issue then would be heat, with is a bit easier to deal with. I may even use this as a testbed for thermal step-down features on an attiny25. In such a small driver cavity, the MCU should have a relatively easy time sensing the pill temperature, especially if I cram in a thin piece of thermal-conducting foam.

We are back in regulation.