Not quite ready to share this yet. Also, the MCU on it is the 12 pin ATtiny84, and I’m not quite ready to share that firmware either. Depending on what features you want I might be able to offer you one, depending on what functionality you want. I always get three boards from OSH Park and therefore have a few of each version left over . There is however someone waiting in line (who has been waiting for a long time) who gets first choice amongst the boards that I have left.
25mm MCPCB is what I have in mine and fits nicely, it’s the largest that will fit. The solder joints will interfere with the reflector, so they should be as low profile as possible and the reflector needs to be isolated so it doesn’t short the wires.
Do you have a link to the switch you used? I’ve been trying many things, but have yet to work out a good switch housing when adding an eswitch to a light.
Nice work! I have one and have a few ideas about it. The tail switch would break contact between the cells rather than between the host and 2B~~. Leave the existing contact board in the head as is and make a new oval one to fit in the head end of the battery tube with solder bumps on the top (both at 2B+ potential) and copper tabs at the ends to ground the host that get sandwiched between the head and battery tube. On the underside of this board are a B+ and B~~ contact. This way the rotation of the battery tube is irrelevant to polarity.
I’m not sure how I missed this one. Nice work. I’ve been playing with this light myself lately having made a couple with the batteries in series. Is there a link to Oshpark for the switch board?
I would definitely like a copper pill for this one, but the light I have is quite old and I’ve read here that the newer ones have declined in quality. Someone would have to confirm though. If the new ones suck it might be a waste of time making a copper pill for it.
I have actually attempted something very similar. The tail switch I have already breaks contact with the cells, not the host, but earlier I designed plate to sit on top of the cells, and had changed the underside of the driver so rotation wasn’t and issue. However, fixing this plate was too much of a hassle, and as I use this down in dark abandoned mines I want to be able to replace the cells rather easily. I couldn’t get this solution to work smoothly so I switched back to the original design.
Here are my driver boards with the similar design as your suggestion (it was when I was using ATtiny84 for this driver): Edit: The + and - signs on top of the battery plate are incorrect, + is the middle circle, - on the two outer.
Thanks Mike for the switch plate. I concur with the issues of alignment with the batteries to the driver board. I have resorted on my test light screwing the battery board to the battery housing which is a pain changing batteries.
I mean what do you think about led and driver combination for this light. I have read that using mt-g2 requires make pcb place lower cause reflector sits higher on such big led. Driver size and config is also an opened quetion.
This flashlight have at least two good quality clones (ultrafire with serial cells in stock and one more with piggybacked BT receiver for remote control), even if anodize or smth else is not very high quality the host itself is very good designed for heat accomodate and transfer (much better than all SRK clones for example). I can’t imagine how much power it can carry with copper pill.
That was definitely a no go for me. I had to be able to replace cells “normally”. I had to insert the driver in exactly the right angle so the cells aligned with the solder blobs when screwed on. And now with the body filed down I’m not getting any shorts. What driver are you using?
It was quite a long time ago I first installed the LED, but I do remember I had to file down the reflector to make it fit. I did an ugly job of it too. However, I really like this light with the MT-G2. It’s why I have continued to develop it. For my usage I don’t want an extremely tight hot spot and I think it’s close to perfect with the MT-G2. And driven with a FET it puts out quite a lot of light.
My driver is made with a 30mm diameter which is a little too large so I have to file it down slightly for it to fit. I did this intentionally so that the driver has to be pressed in with force so it will not move.
I didn’t know about those clones. And one has serial cells already? Also, piggybacked BT receiver sounds interesting. Do you have links for these two clones?
The light linked above is the normal ZY-T08 with plastic reflector. I believe the ZY-T08 at Gearbest has the aluminium reflector and they are a different shape to the plastic one.
I’m running a 5.5 amp, 4mode driver from RMM in a custom pill with the one light I’ve modded to series.
I’m a late comer to this light but fallen for it big time. Made quite a few, running the BLF A6 +1 DD driver piggybacked on the standard stripped driver, XPL Hi led, 26mm Maxtoch MCPCB screwed to the pill, replaced switch, spring bypass, and a larger oring on the battery tube as the stock one does nothing.
I thought I had pictures but cant find them so maybe I did not take any.
Interesting… The Gearbest has aluminium reflector? This one: http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_198014.html ?
Have you been able to compare it with the plastic one, or have you only been working with the alu one?
