Keygos KE-5 5 mode XM-L

Here's what my brass pill looks like.

Mine will throw a good 400yds. That's about 360yds or so to that white barn with a vehicle parked in front of it.

The vehicle that is lit up at the end of the beam and you can see a white barn if you look.

Those poles are about 100yds or maybe 110yds apart. I just stepped it off to the barn from where I took that photo from and I got right at 440yds. Take off the 40yds for my discrepency and I would bet money it's 400yds almost exactly. But I do have a 200ft tape measure I guess I could tape measure the distance.

thinking about ordering one of these. how on par to the solarforce lights would you say the threads of this light are? bad threads are my pet peeve. i can handle scratches, uneven finish, but if the threads look like they were cut with a pipe threader from a discount tool store, i can't handle it.

Buy that light from redlog on ebay and you should be tickled.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1300-Lumens-CREE-XM-L-XML-T6-LED-EK5-Flashlight-Torch-/150676770539?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item2315090eeb

looks like you have a different driver than the one I have (Same as olds). I also get the same tailcap readings as old. At 3.5A it must get hot fast.

Is your soldered like ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS's is or is it unsoldered like old's?

I put some solder on mine = no difference .

That's a shame. Back to the drawing board (pun intended...lol).

It looks like the Keygos is also a lottery, the driver on mine is the green one not Black.

I Just swapped a Neutral XML on mine and will replace the driver with the KD 2.8A driver. This light is really putting out a tight hot spot equivalent to my X9 @ 1meter. Will be comparing both lights once I replaced the KE5 with the KD driver.

Ok I just charged my Trustfire battery to fully charged and took a tailcap reading. It started at 3.55 amps and tapered down to 3.05 amps and stopped. Maybe mine is just hotter. I don't know but I think this one puts out some lumens.

Doesn't the tailcap reading merely give you to battery draw, not the amount of power the driver is pushing out? Or is it safe to assume these numbers are similar, even without knowing the individual driver's specs?

Looking forward to that!

Which neutral have you bought?

Welcome ballard .

Looking forward to the answer to your question .

Power? As in total watts? Amps x volts = Watts. So yes, you get the current as well as the total power from doing tailcap readings.

I think he wants to know the power to the LED. Not the IN but the OUT from the driver. Driver efficiency plays a role there.

That's exactly what I meant, Hik, and thanks for the warm welcome VFMaddict and Jack.

We can tell that the emitter is correct, and we can clean up the contact points, mod the springs, etc. to deal with resistance throughout the light. So, the great unknown here is what is going on in the driver (I am ignoring, for the moment, losses from the lens and reflector). Since this is an ebay knockoff, I will be curious if I got one that feeds the emitter 2.2 amps or 3.2 amps. Since cheap drivers are often inefficient, the power given from the driver to the LED could be considerably lower than the power given from the battery to the driver. So, theoretically we should be testing the leads into the LED, if possible. However, I am a flashlight and electrical newcomer, and maybe driver inefficiency is relatively insignificant? If the driver is inefficient, and drawing significantly more power from the batteries than feeding to the emitter, we would now be losing lumens without gaining runtime.

Of course, I may just be over thinking this. I am waiting to receive the EK5, and can't stop myself from over analyzing it because I am impatient.