thinking about ordering one of these. how on par to the solarforce lights would you say the threads of this light are? bad threads are my pet peeve. i can handle scratches, uneven finish, but if the threads look like they were cut with a pipe threader from a discount tool store, i can't handle it.
Buy that light from redlog on ebay and you should be tickled.
looks like you have a different driver than the one I have (Same as olds). I also get the same tailcap readings as old. At 3.5A it must get hot fast.
Is your soldered like ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS's is or is it unsoldered like old's?
I put some solder on mine = no difference .
That's a shame. Back to the drawing board (pun intended...lol).
It looks like the Keygos is also a lottery, the driver on mine is the green one not Black.
I Just swapped a Neutral XML on mine and will replace the driver with the KD 2.8A driver. This light is really putting out a tight hot spot equivalent to my X9 @ 1meter. Will be comparing both lights once I replaced the KE5 with the KD driver.
Ok I just charged my Trustfire battery to fully charged and took a tailcap reading. It started at 3.55 amps and tapered down to 3.05 amps and stopped. Maybe mine is just hotter. I don't know but I think this one puts out some lumens.
Doesn't the tailcap reading merely give you to battery draw, not the amount of power the driver is pushing out? Or is it safe to assume these numbers are similar, even without knowing the individual driver's specs?
Looking forward to that!
Which neutral have you bought?
Welcome ballard .
Looking forward to the answer to your question .
Power? As in total watts? Amps x volts = Watts. So yes, you get the current as well as the total power from doing tailcap readings.
I think he wants to know the power to the LED. Not the IN but the OUT from the driver. Driver efficiency plays a role there.
That's exactly what I meant, Hik, and thanks for the warm welcome VFMaddict and Jack.
We can tell that the emitter is correct, and we can clean up the contact points, mod the springs, etc. to deal with resistance throughout the light. So, the great unknown here is what is going on in the driver (I am ignoring, for the moment, losses from the lens and reflector). Since this is an ebay knockoff, I will be curious if I got one that feeds the emitter 2.2 amps or 3.2 amps. Since cheap drivers are often inefficient, the power given from the driver to the LED could be considerably lower than the power given from the battery to the driver. So, theoretically we should be testing the leads into the LED, if possible. However, I am a flashlight and electrical newcomer, and maybe driver inefficiency is relatively insignificant? If the driver is inefficient, and drawing significantly more power from the batteries than feeding to the emitter, we would now be losing lumens without gaining runtime.
Of course, I may just be over thinking this. I am waiting to receive the EK5, and can't stop myself from over analyzing it because I am impatient.
ballard you are over analyzing far too much. Don't be worry be happy 
But then I would just be sitting back and patiently waiting for my new gizmo to show up like a responsible adult... No, that won't do at all. Thanks for the advice though. However, I am happy.
One can simply accept that there will be driver loss ..
DD is often not so bad ..
But there are other variables to consider : if you want to get into the nitty gritty ...
the vF of the emitter , V out of the driver = over volting the Emitter may can affect output
if you have a driver that put's out 3.65v and an emitter with a vF of 3.25v
and you have another driver that's 3.5v out and the emitter is 3.55 vF
and both run the same current ... obviously there will be variation ..
With limited test equipment , it becomes difficult to really be 100% ...
Best to accept ball park figures , and be happy ...
Ballard , analyze all you want . We love to get bogged down in minutia here .
XMLRND14E3-T5 14mm Round MCPCB with the T5 Flux bin XM-L 5000k Neutral white led.