and I’ll try them with the AOD510 and another FET when it gets in. If that doesn’t work, I know that the drivers from illumn.com work, at worst (but no mode GROUPS via click). I’ll post back here when they all arrive and I get a chance to try them.
Any tool that can help is very good idea. Nice tool.
About 7135 removing trick without any special tools...
Tin front single pin of 7135, put solder on iron and pin and while holding soldering iron in one hand give it gently (not savage press I really mean gently) push with toothpick from rear 3 pin side of 7135. In one moment it will pop off from driver and probably drop somewhere on the floor.
Of course driver have to be in some kind of bench vise for this method.
Now that I’m close to being ready to burn firmware, I was wondering if there is any other firmware that can be burned to the NANJG MCU that works with a NANJG-92 FET?
So my question is if you convert one of these into a FET driver (done it 3 out of 4 times successfully) can you just leave one of the 7135’s (the one at the end of the Atiny13) on to have a FET+7135 driver, then flash it with new firmware to get regulated lows?
I don’t have the flashing stuff yet, so just a question…
I saw that a while back, prior to looking into the flashing. It seems that you have to cut the leg #5 on the Atiny13, then jumper it over to the FET gate. This means the FET gate is not attached to where the old 7135 was attached as a “normal” mod like this is done.
I am unsure how much programming would be needed for this, I am still up in the air about what Dual PWM is…
I do wish Major would have some more pics and a little better explanation, but that guy was working it earlier in the thread…
I’m just guessing, but looking at the screenshot of the code he took in post #41, it looks like he has one MCU output going to the 7135 (the original output, I think) and then added code to have a 2nd output to the FET Gate input.
In the screenshot he has two arrays, amc7135modes and fetmodes, and I guess the numbers in the arrays correspond to the modes vs. PWM frequencies for each of those inputs?
So, 1st mode, has:
MODE 7135 FET
= =
off 0 0
1 5 0
2 255 0
3 255 56
4 0 255
So do you see the logic there?
In mode 1, 7135 PWM is 5, and FET PWM is 0, i.e., only current via the 7135 and at low PWM.
In mode 2, 7135 PWF is 255, and FET PWM is still 0, i.e., still only current via the 7135, probably at max, or 350mA.
etc.
Something like that anyway :)…
So, it seems like what he (Major) did was:
1) Remove all 7135s except one of them
2) Add the FET, wired to MCU pin 5
3) Mod the minidrv firmware
From the reviews, it’s unclear exactly what exact version, but the ones in their pics on their website shows a small cap on the battery side/spring side of the driver. Assuming that’s the case, can someone tell me if I can move that cap on to the emitter side of the driver after I clean off all of the 7135s and have added a FET? And, if so, exactly where (since the pics from comfy’s original post/thread are gone now)?
It looks like you’re in the USA. Have you thought about getting some oshpark boards instead? For those in the usa it’s easier than hacking up nanjg boards imho.
The nice thing about using the NANJG board is I don’t have to go buy the different parts (including the MCU), but I just did one where I am also burning firmware and it’s a pain because at least the way I do the FET, it gets in the way of the SOIC clip, so I have to desolder when I want to re-burn firmware. Does the SOIC clip fit on the MCU on the oshpark boards without removing anything?
I accidentally shorted + - of this driver on upper emitter side with reflector (one layer of kapton tape for isolation on reflector bottom is not good enough :) )
So whole flashlight smoked, battery got hot(lasted probably for 10 or more seconds), i got aware when I saw smoke. After that accident:
- switch died
- driver remained working on one mode(high only). I will throw it away but it survived :)
- Led survived
- Panasonic NCR18650PF survived without any issue?? Lito kala says it is fine.
So I just wanted to post my bad experience here. This is good driver and panasonic is one great cell. No explosion and it still works like a champ.
All that current of the short went through the FET, was it the FET that smoked? Or the wires?, If that current was over the FET-specs it may just be permanently shorted. Perhaps if you just swap the FET, the driver lives again. :-)
The attiny did not receive an abnormal voltage, so I would not expect it to die. The only abnormal thing that has happened to the driver is a large current through the FET.