It looks like the Keygos is also a lottery, the driver on mine is the green one not Black.
I Just swapped a Neutral XML on mine and will replace the driver with the KD 2.8A driver. This light is really putting out a tight hot spot equivalent to my X9 @ 1meter. Will be comparing both lights once I replaced the KE5 with the KD driver.
Ok I just charged my Trustfire battery to fully charged and took a tailcap reading. It started at 3.55 amps and tapered down to 3.05 amps and stopped. Maybe mine is just hotter. I don't know but I think this one puts out some lumens.
Doesn't the tailcap reading merely give you to battery draw, not the amount of power the driver is pushing out? Or is it safe to assume these numbers are similar, even without knowing the individual driver's specs?
That's exactly what I meant, Hik, and thanks for the warm welcome VFMaddict and Jack.
We can tell that the emitter is correct, and we can clean up the contact points, mod the springs, etc. to deal with resistance throughout the light. So, the great unknown here is what is going on in the driver (I am ignoring, for the moment, losses from the lens and reflector). Since this is an ebay knockoff, I will be curious if I got one that feeds the emitter 2.2 amps or 3.2 amps. Since cheap drivers are often inefficient, the power given from the driver to the LED could be considerably lower than the power given from the battery to the driver. So, theoretically we should be testing the leads into the LED, if possible. However, I am a flashlight and electrical newcomer, and maybe driver inefficiency is relatively insignificant? If the driver is inefficient, and drawing significantly more power from the batteries than feeding to the emitter, we would now be losing lumens without gaining runtime.
Of course, I may just be over thinking this. I am waiting to receive the EK5, and can't stop myself from over analyzing it because I am impatient.
But then I would just be sitting back and patiently waiting for my new gizmo to show up like a responsible adult... No, that won't do at all. Thanks for the advice though. However, I am happy.
I think a couple of importtant things are going on ..For me it's a clear indication of what my battery is doing on the inside ..Without more sophisticated equiptment i am happy to note the degree the battery is falling off..and can easily compare them to other batteries of the same type and others better or worse . For me tailcap readings are telling me lots . It's interesting to watch what a known good battery does vs. a known bad battery and everything inbetween .As far as efficiency or inefficiency that is manafested in two ways ,,Heat and light output ...again with enough lights to compare them to the seat of the pants says lots. The Lmr battery increased the output on the keygo dramaticly ,numbers went up about 25% and rev jims batteries are rock solid ...Curious If anyone knows what battery voltage means when you test the battery like doing a tailcap reading but have the meter set to dc voltage .i was getting a reading of 3.88 as i did it a couple of times by mistake ..and 3.6? on another light i think ,,is this voltage thru the driver ? most of the batteries were 4.10 or higher during testing so the odd numbers caught my attention ..Any clue ?