Teardown and Mod Thread of Courui XML2 Aka "Big Head 3x18650 Side-Switch Thrower"

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rexdog
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LinusHofmann, Could you let me know where you bought the centring rings you described as used for your HD2010 please.

Generally:
As I think I have fried the R200 resister, I’m going to try a piece of copper wire to bridge as mentioned in this thread.

Was also thinking (I’m talking out my A*** here,), instead of inverting the Al pill, would a piece of copper (maybe 2mm or so) press fit onto the shelf under the Al pill achieve any better heat sinking, thereby lifting the emitter up into the reflector AND giving better heat flow? I have no idea, so would enjoy feedback from those more knowledgeable.

fireball

bibihang
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Yes, the Noctigon is thinner than those aluminium board, so when you change it into Noctigon in your Courui the LED doesn’t have sufficient height to make it sitting inside the reflector. You need to reflow a copper piece on your Noctigon to make it thicker, or unscrew the LED shelf by a few turns. Flipping the LED shelf to the other side still doesn’t help much.

G0OSE
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I blew my R200 the same way – I didn’t remove it though, just soldered a very small wire to each end of it and it worked fine.
Luckily a nice forum member gave me a whole new board.
I also pm’d Gearbest from here, asking about a new driver board (and how it may be a good idea to stock some) apparently they contacted the factory and they are sending some through as spares to be sold on the site. I was told as soon as they arrived I would be notified, but I haven’t heard anything yet Sad

rexdog
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G0OSE wrote:
I blew my R200 the same way – I didn’t remove it though, just soldered a very small wire to each end of it and it worked fine. Luckily a nice forum member gave me a whole new board. I also pm’d Gearbest from here, asking about a new driver board (and how it may be a good idea to stock some) apparently they contacted the factory and they are sending some through as spares to be sold on the site. I was told as soon as they arrived I would be notified, but I haven’t heard anything yet Sad

When you say small wire, G0OSE, do you mean thin. I’m trying to wrap my head around what is probably electronics 101 to many of you.
The Resistor that is there – R200 – is holding voltage/current (?) back. Is that correct?
So the width of the wire join (thinner or thicker) would vary the voltage/current going across. Is that correct?
And yet some peeps in this thread have removed it and soldered across, which would be a large path. All this confuses me. I maybe over thinking. Tired
Cheers

fireball

Down_South
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Stated to mod my Courui.
Got the springs and tail cap done no problem. Brighter.

Decided to file/sand the centering ring. Worked fine.

The reason I sanded the centering ring was to improve the beam pattern right?
That means I need to move the pill up since the centering ring was shorter in height.

Oops, forgot the kapton tape. Where’s those smart pills when you need them?

Now have 2.6V hi, 2.1V low at the LED.

Check LED wires. Good continuity. – not connected to pill obviously
Short the LED negative to the pill with light off or on and behold! Full brightness.

Batteries @ 4.05 volts. Blown driver? Any ideas on repair or is it time for a new driver and if so what?.

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Lack of consideration for others in minor matters.

A loss of politeness, of gentle manners, is more significant than is a riot.”

FmC
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Down_South wrote:
Stated to mod my Courui.
Got the springs and tail cap done no problem. Brighter.

Decided to file/sand the centering ring. Worked fine.

The reason I sanded the centering ring was to improve the beam pattern right?
That means I need to move the pill up since the centering ring was shorter in height.

Oops, forgot the kapton tape. Where’s those smart pills when you need them?

Now have 2.6V hi, 2.1V low at the LED.

Check LED wires. Good continuity. – not connected to pill obviously
Short the LED negative to the pill with light off or on and behold! Full brightness.

Batteries @ 4.05 volts. Blown driver? Any ideas on repair or is it time for a new driver and if so what?.

My guess is that one of the little FET’s has been damaged.

With the centering ring, it’s usually the top part that obscures the LED that needs to be reduced, which won’t make a difference to the installed height. Maybe you got an overly thick one?

Might be time to get your hands on one of the BLF FET drivers & a Noctigon Smile

– edit –

I think some people also reported damaging the R200 resistor. You could try bridging that to see if you regain full output.

electricjelly
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LinusHofmann wrote:
Ok guys, so just when I thought I’d leave this light aside for a while another package arrived and I had to get stuck in again. Only a small mod this time but it’s probably put the biggest smile on my face so far.

I decided to take a little gamble a while back before I had the light and ordered a 73mm lens from flashlightlens.com thinking if I was lucky it might just fit this light.
This is a multicoated Acrylic (yuck plastic! :P) lens but the specs are pretty damn convincing so I thought I’d give it a go.
I couldn’t find any other glass AR lenses of the right size and was pretty keen to try this type of material and give the coating a closer look. I mean I’ve been wearing AR coated acrylic glasses for years and the coating can take a beating, so how bad can it be.

So anyway I got this lens today and replaced the stock uncoated glass one tonight, thankfully it’s a perfect fit. Being Acrylic a bit of sanding down wouldn’t have been out of the question but it fitted right in…and…all I can say is WOW! This is a very impressive piece of kit, the coating is incredibly anti reflective totally on par with the coating on some very high quality acrylic lenses in my eyeglasses.

Comparing side by side with my other AR coated glass flashlight lenses, one from cnqualitygoods and another in the BTU shocker (different coatings with BTU lens being superior) this acrylic lens puts both to shame. It’s also quite stunning with it’s reddish sheen.

Here cnqualitygoods AR lens in HD2010 (Top) and Bighead Acrylic below. I may have overexposed just a tad but it should be obvious that the Acrylic lens reflects much less of the filament bulbs intensity, the difference is even more apparent in person.

The HD2010 lens isn’t the best AR coating I’ve see but it still puts an uncoated glass lens in it’s place.
The Acrylic lens is really spectacular in this regard, most dimmer light sources just don’t register in the lens at all so it gives a spectacularly unhindered view into the reflector.

With the light on there are clear positives but also one negative point to report.
The biggest benefit I noticed right away with this lens is far less prominent beam artifacts due to internal reflections. The main one that plagued this light is a fairly noticeable ring artefact around the central hotspot just past the fringes of the corona. I figured this might be due to rogue photons bouncing off the uncoated glass lens and that seemed to be the case since the AR coating on this new lens has almost completely removed it. And what little there is left is much softer and really dim so it’s hard to spot now, BIG improvement.

There is also less light spilling out of the sides of the beam close to the reflector, this used to be quite obvious in a bright ring projected at around 120degress all around and now it’s very faint and tinted slightly red.


Note the reddish sidespill compared with the very blue sidespill of the cnqualitygoods lens. Both look pretty cool and distinctive and on the bighead that ring is massively dimmer than it was before.

On the downside.
Looking at the light when it’s on, the lens is very slightly more “milky” than a perfectly clean glass lens. This is probably just the material itself absorbing and scattering a small amount of the light as it passes through but it’s really no worse than the general standard of “clean” glass lenses we tend to get. Even if there is a tiny bit of oil or impurities on or in the glass it starts looking very similar.

It’s just a shame because this is the only thing not truly spectacular about the lens and it would be amazing if it was as clear when on as it is when off…but it seems there’s always a tradeoff. Smile
In any case going by the specs for this lens material and the 97% transmission figure I’d be happy to say that the light being lost through internal reflections on the stock lens is probably far more significant than what is being swallowed up by this one because of it’s material composition. That combined with the much cleaner beam profile and just damn gorgeous appearance I’m giving this lens a full thumbs up! Smile


I’ll just file this under flashlight porn shall I? Wink

A bit of an unknown is how durable this coating will be, it’s certainly more prone to “blueing” when touched with anything oily (similar to a photographic lens coating) and is probably less hard wearing than an equivalent glass coating but this remains to be seen. I’ll treat it with a bit more care than I normally would but hopefully it holds up well in general use.
If someone finds a quality glass AR lens for this light then that may still be the better option, but overall I’m really pleased with this upgrade to my light.

Its been awhile since you recommended this lens. How’s the long-term durability been? Would you still recommend it?

LinusHofmann
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electricjelly wrote:
Its been awhile since you recommended this lens. How’s the long-term durability been? Would you still recommend it?

Still going strong and I’d definitely still recommend it.
I don’t subject the light to particularly rough treatment but the coating has held up well over a year’s worth of cleaning and general use.
The coating will shift from the obvious purple sheen to a more general blue tone after coming into contact with grease for the first time, but I wouldn’t worry about that since it doesn’t seem to affect it’s functionality.

Cheers
Linus

electricjelly
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LinusHofmann wrote:
electricjelly wrote:
Its been awhile since you recommended this lens. How’s the long-term durability been? Would you still recommend it?

Still going strong and I’d definitely still recommend it.
I don’t subject the light to particularly rough treatment but the coating has held up well over a year’s worth of cleaning and general use.
The coating will shift from the obvious purple sheen to a more general blue tone after coming into contact with grease for the first time, but I wouldn’t worry about that since it doesn’t seem to affect it’s functionality.

Cheers
Linus

That’s good to hear. I have this light on its way so I’m planning out the mods I’m going to do. Thanks to all you and others who have modded this light it’ll make my job a lot easier. Thanks for sharing what you’ve learned.

bibihang
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Has anyone done aspherical lens mod with this light yet?

vestureofblood
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bibihang wrote:
Has anyone done aspherical lens mod with this light yet?


I have not taken the time to build one yet, but I did look into it some.  

I have used these lenses in the past with good results.

 http://www.dx.com/p/66mm-24mm-2-90-degree-99-transmittance-glass-optic-1...

 If you made a collar to fit around this lens it will fit in the head.    

If you have a way to bore a couple of mm from the inside of the head or the outside of the glass I think this one will also fit.   I have made lights that do over 700K with this lens before.

http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022169

You would also need to counter sink the LED into the neck of the light to use the 71mm lens because the focal length is 47mm

I cant remember what the focal length for the 66mm so you might have to CS the LED for that one too.

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bibihang
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Hi, maybe i miss something but why using 66mm lens since the head is definitely big enough to accommodate 70mm+ lens?

That 71mm lens looks promising, but yeah it is kinda a pain to focus an aspherical lens in a fixed head position light. I have not owned any light that can produce 700kcd yet!

vestureofblood
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Doing a quality aspherical mod in this light would be hard.    To get 700+kcd you need an XPG2 driven to about 4.5A de-domed with a wavien collar implemented.    18650s in par dont provide enough voltage so either an S conversion or going to 18350s would be needed.

I would think an XML2 U4 de-dome with the 71mm lens would probly get you some big numbers on the front end of the battery charge if the wavien was used.   Probly over 500k.


I mentioned those 2 lenses because I have used them Smile

In Him (Jesus Christ) was life; and the life was the light of men. And the light shineth in darkness; and the darkness comprehended it not.
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sandalian
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Thanks for the teardown.
Now I know what to do to my incoming Courui.

I'm switching my BLF account into LumenZilla. Thanks!

Goodfellafin
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Noob here. I am buying this courui d01 light for modding. Would it be possible to use blf fet driver with this light because it uses electronic switch? Or would it be smarter just to add r100 resistor on original board. With spring bypasses ofc. And if its possible to use blf frt driver how to connect it with the switch? How much amps would the original led survive? Sorry for the question flood..

Serp
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Goodfellafin wrote:
Or would it be smarter just to add r100 resistor on original board

I’m buy it from Gearbest. It’s have Rs=(r010)
I burned transistors 3400. So I pulled the driver out of the housing.
It has a second channel, without second coil.
I took from there the transistor and resistor (Rs parallel to the first resistor).

Now 3.5A@3.7-4.1V

unknown00101
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Goodfellafin wrote:
Noob here. I am buying this courui d01 light for modding. Would it be possible to use blf fet driver with this light because it uses electronic switch? Or would it be smarter just to add r100 resistor on original board. With spring bypasses ofc. And if its possible to use blf frt driver how to connect it with the switch? How much amps would the original led survive? Sorry for the question flood..

My D01 is getting modded after I finish up a few other lights. My plan is:

Fet driver e-switch with custom modes

XPL HI, or dedomed XPG2 on a maxtoch mcpcb (with the wide, flat reflector bottom this will be a bit of a task)

Bypass springs and traces.

 

The original led should be fine with a FET driver as long as it is reflowed onto a copper DTP mcpcb.

There's a ton of mod threads with tons of pictures if you need guidance (I know I sure do) Smile

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Courui D01 + XHP50 (6V, 3.3A)


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