BLF Designed Budget Thrower GB Question

That is BAD to the BONE!!! :heart_eyes: Did you make that? :open_mouth:

This!

There seems to be a bit of a gap in throwers between the C8 format and anything larger… if someone would make a compact thrower ( C8 sized but with a reflector 30% larger (A60 sized?)) I think it would sell like hotcakes. The only lights I have seen that fill that bracket are name brands which tend to be very expensive ($100+). The A60 did it for awhile but quality and availability were hit and miss.

In the 55mm head diam area (C8: 45 mm, HD2010/M12/T08: 63 mm), there are some, like the C818: http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S024220. It's a real nice quality light and KD has a very good price for it. Also the XinTD/Convoy X3 is in that size category with a 55 mm head diam.

This or the x3 would be a great blf thrower

It has square cut threads, E-switch and rear switch lockout.

It has a healthy driver but something has to be done about the disco modes.

Ditch the UrAnus branding by meeting the MOQ and give it a BLF name.



The C818 is a very good well built light! Thick integrated shelf. Excellent Matte Ano, push button and E-switch. Jump the resistor to get 5.4-5.5 amps at the tail cap. I went full bore mod on mine. I opened the pill from 20mm to 26mm and put the Maxtoch 26mm XP board with an extra stripped Maxtoch board underneath, to put the reflector (46mmx40) on the board, without altering or clearing the reflector, for the leads. I then elongated the lead holes, drilled and tapped for 2-56 button head screws to hold them down. I don’t like cycling thru the blinky’s, so I went with the FETDDMoppydrv and a XP-L HI V32B and got 156kcd with a Sony vtc5. It will do more with a fully de-domed XPL, XML or XPG2 with the FETDD driver. :wink: I really like this light, even mod stock and a DTP board and de-dome the LED I got 136kcd, tint 5200-5000k no green/blue that I could see, so for $23.00 and some change this light is a steal! :wink: To me any way! :slight_smile: Note: I put the reflector on the board for tuning purpose’s like all the lights (throwers) I do, and no centering rings. To get the best focus and cd, I used 1 paper sticky back insulater to shim the reflector up .250mm I’m guessing?

Yep, I like the driver alot! :slight_smile: Except the blinky’s!!! |( I like it because you could use the push button to turn on and cycle thru the levels too? I’m guessing that’s why they have 2 mcu’s? Jump R2 to get 5.5 amps and I wonder if you could replace the FET to a better one? But I’m keeping the old one in hopes somebody out there can re-program it? I don’t know of such things as this yet? :~

That Uranusfire has a really nice size reflector IMHO.

Personally I think 18650 is a much more widely accepted form factor, mainly for pocket-ability.

It seems like all the manufacturers are in the same region in china anyway, so if we cant simply send them a CAD file, (which is extremely simple) we could specify what we want to Manker (or similar) and have them get back to us with the parts available locally?

Its so hard to get any information out of the manufacturers, but if we could source Uranusfire direct I’m sure we could get a nice limited edition light for a much more realistic price.

A CAD competition could be in order :slight_smile:

Chris

It wouldn’t take much to do really? My SRK X3 18650 battery tube almost fits the 818 and looks really COOL!! Often thought about making adapter rings to change 26650 battery tubes to 18650’s or a 26650 battery tube for my Courui’s, to carry a little smaller/lighter. :bigsmile: It would be great to have both 18650 and 26650 battery tubes with a light even if you can run 18650’s in them? :wink:

It doesn’t mind me at all, I have plenty of batteries, but from a cost reducing perspective it doesn’t help thats all.

My most used light is an HD2010 because I get massive runtime and I have RyanSoh’s copper slugs which do an amazing job in heatsinking.

I’ve seen people like Robo mention they are on benefits etc, so for every $10 we can reduce the price we would probably double the amount of people that will buy, and thats important. This is BUDGETlightforum after all.

Its a bit of a joke reducing a retail price by $5 and adding 10 cents of engraving and calling it limited edition.

The whole lego thing is pretty fun, a host kit could be a goer but again will definitely reduce the volume of sales.

Chris

I like the X3, but I think the X3 is over bulky because of the waisted space in the tube - an 26650 needs a spacer / oring to sit tight.

Have not seen the UranusFire in person, but it looks like a nice light. I like your recommendation Tom. I also like the fact that it takes 26650. The additional performance (current & runtime) from a 26650 is worth the extra size for me…

How about these?

Roxane M9

Roxane K28

Supfire L3

But I am really in love with this design though… On The Road X3

I’m not sure about e-switches. What’s the general consensus?

This looks almost exactly like what Ben was suggesting

http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023626

Just a tad overpriced and unsure of thermal path design etc

Chris

Not sure either… It just looks really nice! LOL The brand is overpriced IMO…

Wish KD would publish the dimensions, specially head diameter. If that's a real SS bezel, than based on the pics of the head size, it's a pretty good deal at $20, all depends.

Well, I like e-switch's much better - better usability if it's done right - quality switch, good feel, the position is generally much better to operate it from. This is why many/most larger size higher end lights have a side switch, even many of the small ones do.

To mod them is more of a challenge though. For a stock Group Buy e-switch light, there are some things to look for. I much prefer full control on the side switch ON/OFF, but the driver when OFF, should be in a low power mode, so the parasitic drain is almost insignificant. With our custom drivers, we insure all this.

From the pictures the body tube looks like it only takes 18650, and based on the ratio of the head diameter to the body tube it also looks to me that the head size is about the same as the C8…

Was wondering - the one vertical standing pic seems to show that in a C8 size or so, but others seem to show the head bigger. KD's pics (and website in general) is horrible - nothing much improved.

Not much info here either.

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/CREE-XM-L-2-1400-Lumens_2017931309.html