Nice 
Thanks
I have the driver set up for 6V with moon parts installed and activated in a heavily modified 502B (extra length for 2x 18650 and 10 copper fins). The driver and ntc are fully potted and ground is bridged to the host pill(also copper)with copper wire and solder. All 4 modes work(moon is just a lower low since I didn’t change the moon R) but switching is a bit inconsistent, sometimes more than one half press and has to be brief. After the light heats up in high mode half press no longer changes modes. It stays in high until I turn it off and let it cool, then it functions as before. It does not go into overheat shut down or even ntc step down and this occurs before the fins get uncomfortably warm. It’s not a floating P60 design anymore, the new copper pill screws into threads cut into the copper fins. Is this an issue with an off-time capacitor that has been stressed?
That sounds like ntc isn't connected the right way(are you sure you connected it to correct pads?) and/or even more possible is that there is a short between ntc +pad and off-time capacitor, which is right next to the ntc +pad.That probably happened during ntc +wire soldering. If this is the case,then off-time cap has ~200kOhm parasitic resistance when cold,which would explain why tap must be pretty fast to change mode;when flashlight gets hot that parasitic resistance drops to ~115kOhm,and explains why you cannot change modes anymore - parasitic resistance causes off-time capacitor to discharge much faster than usual, so driver sees that as turn off.
But since driver and ntc are potted,I'm not sure if it's possible to fix that problem.
It is a good idea to check if everything works OK before permanent seal.
I soldered both ntc and led wires from the spring side so bridging should not have occurred but nothing’s certain when I solder. The potting is somewhat removable and not bonded to the pill only the driver so I’ll check that. I presume the cap is between the mcu and gnd at the top of the board in your picture(trace running straight up to board edge right of led-). Thanks for giving me some things to check.
Heat and a fancy UI do not like each other, so it appears again.
Well,maybe some solder leaked through the pad hole and cause a short,I'm pretty much 100% sure that there is a short between that pad and off-time cap. Capacitor you're describing is the off-time cap.
I assume you're talking about off-time memory issues on various blf DD/7135 drivers when they got hot,but this doesn't happen with LD-2,and LD-2 runs much hotter than DDs in some cases,becasue it's linear driver.After all,you did a real torture test on LD-2 prototype, in which driver shtuted down due driver overtemp. several times (which means whole driver was hotter than 100C,much hotter and any DD driver could be),and I din't remember you report any off-time memory issues.
Yes, I was referring to the BLF-A6 driver, and was a bit quick to extend it here, I admit. I now read it might be a soldering problem.
I did have some erratic behaviour on the LD2 prototype (as reported) but that was not UI related, looked like something with the FET, it was not repeated inside a flashlight.
If I remember correctly, extreme power dissipation (6-7W I think) without cooling was the cause.
Anyway,I'm sure Rufusbduck's problem is ntc-offtime cap short,because symptoms match theory perfectly.
You nailed it. Not a solder short but a single strand of the ntc didn’t go in the hole. You can see it here sticking up from the base of the black wire like the boner that it is. Couldn’t see it with a naked eye. 
Fixed that and then toasted the op amp trying to test it with a 6V battery and test leads. I’ve got a new op amp on it now and it seems to be behaving but I can’t run it full power for long without the led in the light and that means re potting, re installing, and re crossing my fingers.
Nice find and fix RBD. Fingers crossed.
All 9 of ’em. 
I’m lovin/hatin this light more each day. Like bad hair, it grows on you.
@led4power - Bravo! Those are some excellent deductive reasoning skills. You certainly know your product well.
Any idea why the light flashes approx 5 secs after switching on high? It flashes 4 or 5 times then steps down to low.
Xhp70, 6 amps. The other driver worked fine but for the fact I messed up the soldering and it only had one mode so I changed it.
I had a similar problem Here
Possibly a short with the NTC
But got it working fine after cleaning each solder joint up
Sounds like lvp kicking in. Enough contact to work but drops enough voltage to register too little charge. Could be marginal contact in switch or tube/brass retainer contact. Maybe shim the switch 1/2 mm so it’s retainer makes better contact with the battery tube. Also, 6A is a lot of current and pushes Vf up high so any cell not high drain will both sag quickly and not run long. Even a high drain cell won’t run for long on high either.
5 blinks is low voltage warning,stage 1(<3V,or <6V for 2S);that usually means you have bad connection somewhere,ground path is mostly source of problems.
It was lvp, thanks for the suggestions guys.
Funny thing is that it was flashing in two modes but the third mode didnt. Then the third mode started flashing also so I thought it was a heat issue.
Flashing probably didn't occur in the lowest mode,because voltage drop/sag was lower than on mid/high mode,so driver was at 3+ volts.As battery discharged, voltage dropped low enough,so that LVP activated also on low mode. All this is completely normal behavior.
Now getting 2 mA, 12mA, 1.2A, 6A. Still takes a quick tap to change modes but is unaffected by heat. 6V and moon kits but moon has 3V resistor. Still, modes are very nicely spaced.