Nichia 219C, testing a 5000K 83CRI emitter, comparing with a XP-G2 S4 2B and other leds

Oooh where did you get that clip? Looks great

Another question, when swapping the XP-G2 for a Nichia 219c, how do I align the Nichia? I see nichia's "cathode mark"; do I position this corner of the Nichia where the XP-G2 has its "dot"?

I searched for "XP-G2 cathode mark" but couldn't find a clear answer. Are all LEDs marked with a "cathode mark"?

Thanks,

-Garry

If you’re looking at the pad with the positive contact strip on your right and the negtive contact strip on your left, then the Nichia 219C has the larger white blob bottom left. That out of sorts white blob is the cathode marker.

How does that relate to the XP-G2? The XP-G2's dot would also be at that bottom left? (i.e. Nichia blob is same location as XP-G2's dot? This is a quad board out of a bike light I'm working on.

-Garry

Here's a pic. The XP-G2 below the one nichia is showing how it was oriented. I matched the Nichia blobs to the XP-G2 dots.

-Garry

^

You have those oriented correctly. Here is a mix if A's and C's to help you verify.

Garry how do you like the beam after the 219C swap?

I have a BT70 on the way and wanted to do the same.

I've not tried it yet. I'll post up pics and my impression in my bike light thread when I'm done (see link in my signature). I plan to also post my emitter swap video along with pics over in the MTBR BT40S thread.

-Garry

Hi,

i almost finished the mod of a Roche F8 in desert yellow.

The light got a heatsink with 18mm height with 4mm hole. The heatsink is screwed to the pill with two M3 screws. I plan to fill the gap between heatsink and head with Fujik for better heat transfer, but that is a separate step. The 3XP MCPCB is soldered to the heatsink.

Fully assembled. The light uses a Carclo 10507 optics but i will try 10508 later, because i think the beam could be i bit broader. I don´t need much throw from this one. The light is powered by a MTN FET Driver and a LG HE2 battery.

Here in comparison to 2x BLF Ti (XP-G2 S3; Nichia 219B) and a Sinner (Nichia 219B dedomed). Multicolor :wink:

I measured lumens via ceiling bounce and got 2800 Lumens at startup :crown: The light gets hot pretty fast but not as fast as i thought. My multimeter can only measure up to 10A but i think here are flowing more than 12A. Based on Dale´s Quad Nichia this was the plan on mine :slight_smile: I really like this light! I am still a bit scared about the tiny little tailcap switch to melt …

Greetings

Kenjii

My 219c's from RMM's promo sale turned up today.

I just finished replacing the original warm XP-G in my CNQ Brass Beauty with one of these.

Cooler tint than I had anticipated, & great CRI. I can't imagine what the 90+ CRI variants will be like.

Same here. Just added one to a C8 (replaces an DD XM-L2). With a stacked 7135 driver (~2.7A) its pushing around 35K lux (XP-G2 in S4 bin should be around 38K with the same setup). With the linear driver its still pushing 2A with the battery down to 3.5V (1/3 of capacity left) so looks like the low voltage will help it stay in regulation for quite some time. I think I will be adding these to a number of Eagle Eye X6s and Convoy C8s for friends and family.

Can’t same I’m blown away by them (was hoping for a little more throw) but they are a nice alternative to XP-G2 and would be excellent for headlights, worklights etc. Cheap to.

Did you get the 219C on a MCPCB, or reflow it onto one? Did you have to cut any parts down to fit?

I got the bare LED's from Richard, so I had to reflow.

I had a spare board that was the same diameter & thickness as the original, so I just flowed the 219c & it was a straight swap over, although I took the opportunity to replace the lead wires with 22awg silicone wires. I re-used the original thin insulating gasket.

Note that the board is very thin (1mm*14mm), compared to most boards (~1.5mm). With such tight clearances in this light, using a thicker board might be an issue if the cell is on the long side.

I couldn't say if a 16mm board will fit - there was plenty of clearance for the 14mm board, but I didn't test a 16mm on the pill.

Do you guys think the 219C would hold up DD with a efest 10440? I’m hoping the voltage drop would be enough to keep things stable.

The more I look at djozz’s figures, the less confident I am it will work… I think the amps will run away and probably damage the LED… Mmm.

The led will be no problem, remember it easily survived 10 amps. The Efest 10440 are great but will not deliver 10A, my wild guess is 4A at start, skyrocketing down from that. The led will be fine but the battery may protest..

Ok, I hope that is the case then… I was worried about initial spikes in the current. Thanks for your opinion djozz. If the battery protests - that’s fine! Rather the battery than the LED. I’m only receiving my 219Cs in a few weeks time. I’ll test and give feedback then… maybe somebody else will jump the gun in the meantime :wink:

Should be fine, I have a 219C in a light with a FET driver and in the highest mode (basically DD) it did not die with a 25R.

Thanks finges… It should probably do over 10 amps with the 25R. For now, Im planning use the 219C only with smaller cells, 18350, 16340 (regulated drivers at around 4 amps) & 10440 (direct driven). For 18650 and up, I’m still sticking with the XP/M range… The 219C with its low forward voltage makes it quite practical with the smaller cells.

Imagine these type of forward voltages in the XP/M range LEDs… :slight_smile: