I’d be curious about the results.
My guess is that the edge of the hole would be an “artifact magnet”, creating a highly visible point of discontinuity in the beam profile.
I will have to look for one of those hobby stamps or cutters that cuts about 1/2” circle with jagged edges. I think that it will be hard enough to line up on center, but a jagged edge should minimize this somewhat…
I will post pics if I do this, but I do not know if I will have time.
In a reflector light, the hotspot comes from around the edges and the spill from the center area. You would be adding a little spill, possibly, and a few new artifacts to the otherwise smooth beam profile, and not much else. If you really want to play experiment, instead of having a hole in the center of the DC Fix, you could add another color to the center to replace the rainbow effect that Cree forgot to install into the XPL’s. 
Anyway… So, are you saying that the difference of a tighter hotspot that you got from changing to the XPL HI is bigger (stronger effect) than the difference in the other direction that you got from putting DC Fix on the lens? I’ve never used DC Fix, so I’m trying to learn about it.
Yes, I switched the DC Fix lens to my Eagle Eye A6 with a Nichia 219C and the flood is more than with the XPL HI on the BLF A6. I like the profile of the EE A6 with the DC Fix more, it is not as bright as the BLF A6 and makes a great flood as well as a more neutral tint.
Like I said, the XPL HI with the DC Fix was good, and still throws about like a regular XPL, with a brighter middle and less defined (but still brighter) hotspot. So the DC Fix is not a total wash for throwers either. I may order an extra C8 lens to experiment with…
I really like the DC Fix on the optic of my DQG Tiny III 18650, now it is a flood…
Got mine, thank you Jeff!
Had a chance to try it yet?
Cabfrank,you’re welcome ….
Yes i still have plenty left.
Lets just say …they had to shut down one production line to run some more …
Everyone knows what I’m getting them for Christmas … because I wrapped presents with it .
Ok, so no one here that has purchased has felt like posting about their impressions on DC Fix?
I like mine the best on the optic in my DQG Tiny III 18650….
I haven’t actually used any of mine yet….
Mine just arrived. I have a couple of headlights that I think are too spotty, and I’m going to try it on one of them, if I can cut it correctly.
Thanks,
Jim
It has not been mentioned in this thread yet , but this film will also even out the tint shift , or 'Cree rainbow' effect .
Ok, I tried this with one of my headlights. It’s a 3xAA Rayovac that I like using for close working. It has a TIR lens, but it’s got a really/ugly-shaped beam and very bright/distinct hotspot.
My wife cut a piece of the DC-fix to fit over the TIR, and I just peeled the backing off and stuck it on the front of the TIR.
The beam is much “nicer” (no more ugly shape and weird artifacts), and the hotspot doesn’t seem as intense as before. I still can’t use it on high mode for really close up work, but the medium is very useable now.
Hi Boaz,
Many Thanks once again for “Bulk Buying” this for us.
Been wanting to try some of this for ages!
I ran a quick test with a Lucky Sun P26650 I had modded (warmer tint LED on Noctigon, and 105C driver), and diffusion-filmed as I wanted a more “spill” beam, and used some generic privacy film for house windows, purchased off eBay.
Readings off light meter at 1 meter using old film were:
Low 03 Medium 09 High 24, and This Film:
Low 05 Medium 15 High 43,
so (if my math is right) +67% for Low and Medium, with High +75%
Good result and still has slight “hotspot” definition with great “Spill” too. I’m Very Happy with the results.
S-L 
Thanks for the info splott. 75% better than your old generic film is impressive …This just reaffirms Selfbuilts numbers .
i did some quick seat of the pants tests on two BLF A6’s
- Stock light at 36” inches off the floor the edge of the spill hits the floor at about 4 and a half feet
-With DC-fix
it hits the floor at 6 inches
increases the flood so wide i’m always blown away .
perfect for headlamps .
I use diffuser film on lights in place of lanterns or a traffic wand diffusers because they cause way too much glare .
diffuser film is much easier on the eyes .
I’ve tried DCFix Sand on 2 lights; 502b and X6, both for mountain biking.
Without DCFix, they were not ideal for MTB as hotspot too intense with no spill. With
DCFix, both were perfectly smooth and floody beam, tried both on handlebar
as well as helmet. Thanks Boaz.
Unfortunately, I haven’t had time to try it yet. I think it will be great for an older light I use on my bike, when I get a chance to play.
I do not remember who called this stuff “Mag-fix” for being able to de ring stock maglite beams, but they were absolutely correct… My Mini Mag beam looks awesome and as soon as I find my 2D, I will hit it up too….
Nitecore HC50, BLF A6, Convoy S2 XP-L red, thanks Boaz.
I used the DC-FIX on three lights
- my “working” aka less then perfect (reflector dull) P36 a it is a definite plus!, but I am in no rush to use it on my shelf queen versions. High power lights are nice when you can see that they have punch.
- on a project s7 triple nichia 219C 5k, used it on the medium flood TIR and compared it against the full flood TIR version (more below).
- on a solarforce 3.04 amp 3C XML2 emitter, for me makes the light much more friendly and usable.
Something I noticed is that it really will not make a thrower, a flooder. But it does seem to blend (a lot) and broaden (a little) the hotspot out nicely with any light. Again it does not turn a thrower into a mule.
As far as #2 the (before) medium flood is/was brighter then the full flood (which takes a lot more juice, but for me the full flood is a nicer profile if you have the power).
(after) the full flood is now brighter then medium flood with DC-FIX. the medium flood is now more like the full (but still not as even as the full flood) but at the cost of not being as bright and focused as before (makes sense if you think about it). 
So in total I like using DC-FIX but it is not for every light. But for lights with “issues” it is a great way to make them more friendly and usable.
I think it should be a given for headlamps with enough umph.
As far as application I did not follow the instructions I just popped out the lens to be covered, cut a square large enough to cover the lens. cleaned the lens and pealed and stuck the DC-FIX on to the lens, then I just used scissors to trim off the excess DC-FIX, no sweat easy peasy.
Dang - no time yet to try it, but from all the posts on applying it, totally confirms Boaz's enthusiasm for it 
. Got a few lights that could use some TLC fix'n, so hope to give it a go in the next few days.