BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

Can I use two CR123a batteries rather than one 18650 safely?

I have some surefire 123s laying around, and my 18650 got lost in shipping and won’t be here for a month or so. But my BLF a6 showed up! I really want to play with it, so i was wondering if i can use two cr123a batteries without hurting the flashlight.

I don’t think so. Too much voltage.

Edit: If you’re that excited you could use one and somehow spacer it. But two in series will make 6 volts+

Ahhh shoot. Thanks for the quick reply.

There arent really any alternatives are there?

Edited above.

mmm… seems pretty complicated and a little bit above my head. Thanks anyway!

The waiting game is in full force. Quickly import / exporters!

If you want it quickly, & you are in the US, then order from Richard/RMM at Mountain Electronics

BLF Thread:

MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source

Batteries | Mountain Electronics

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=59

Richard/RMM has Great products, VERY GOOD prices, VERY FAST shipping, and GREAT support.

Best Regards,

George

Illumn.com is pretty awesome too. The focus there is more on name-brand lights, but both stores have batteries and great service.

And, no, don’t try to use two CR123A cells. It will fry the driver, which has an absolute maximum of 5.5V, and it might fry other components too.

The A-6 is an ideal light for candle mode operation so if there’s a diffuser that fits with the head removed could someone mention it so it can be listed in the op?

Hello, new to these forums, but I received my BLF-A6 from Banggood a couple days ago and the flashlight would not turn on. The batteries are good and I can turn the flashlight on by completing the circuit by linking the battery to the frame with the tailcap portion removed. Also the flashlight can sometime be activated by having the tail-cap sit on top of the threads. Any tips on how this can be fixed, or should I return the flashlight to Banggood or contact the manufacturer. Thanks.

Likely the switch retainer is loose and not properly engaging the switch pcb to the tail cap. Use some needle nose pliers to tighten it. Better yet, remove the brass ring and pcb and clean them and the tail threads first with alcohol and a paper towel as there are often metal shavings or other detritus that interferes with proper threading. Then relube them and reassemble.

Edit- BTW, welcome to the forum, we fix stuff or make it better.

See first post - “Some flashlight basics:” to locate the error (e.g. battery tube, tailcap switchboard, switch, retaining ring …).

Mine had a too short battery tube which couldn’t get contact with the “outer area” of the tailcap. Banggood sent me a new battery tube so i could remove the workaround.

Both the 20-24mm and the 20-25mm fit the A6:
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1347102
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1140010

I like using these wand-type diffusers when walking along side the road. It shines like a lantern, so it is very visible to oncoming traffic from hundreds of yards away.

P.S. I do not remove the head when adding the diffuser. Works just fine that way. Besides, with the BLF A6, I’m worried about decapitating the LED whenever I unscrew the head.

If you remove the head, what keeps the LED board in thermal contact with the body of the light?
I thought pressure from bezel-lens-reflector-spacer held it down.

Yep, tried that, but it was was as far as it could go, I took the tail cap portion apart and put some rubbing alcohol on all of the parts, but the problem still persists.

Edit, paper clip text did not work the first time, but it did work the second time, except when I shake the flashlight, the light turns on.

About diffusers… it can also work to put some DC-Fix or similar on the lens. But that will merely smooth out the beam, not make it shine in all directions.

I like it with a blended beam, but haven’t had a use for a full-360 diffuser wand yet.

Welcome retriever222!!!

Sorry that your light isn’t working right out of the box.

Shaking it to make it work is a sure sign something is loose. Make sure your springs aren’t bent and making good contact with the battery. If you have a way to remove the retaining ring you can place the paper clip between it and the switch board. There is also another ring in the head portion as well if you can check it too. I hope you can get it to work but if not there is no harm in contacting bang good. We will help as much as possible if you want to get the light going.

Power outage general room illumination is what I’m thinking of.

An extra o-ring under the button cap will shift the switch pcb and retainer closer to the battery tube. On mine the button is too sensitive so probably needs the rubber post to be shaved or shimmed.

A local member asked me to look at a non functional one and it seems the driver retainer bottoms out on the threads before contacting the board. Upon close examination the threads are not cut all the way to the relief cut. It can be fixed by soldering tabs either to the board or to the ring.

I ordered this holster from Fasttech. Very well made and fits perfectly. The side storage sleeve for a spare 18650 battery is too loose to be of much use, though.

Unfortunately, this item is currently out of stock. :ghost: