Yh I think i made up my mind, Sorry to hear that delivery its taking long, China is not that far away from you guys, or maybe they are running low on orders, i messaged Hank, he said they got plenty.
What made this difficult to choose between the TN36 and M43 was this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mOAP9KWBl4 - even though once he dropped it first time you can see in the front of the light the bezel has been compromised the its changed shape, but still works, which is impressive.
Ultimately the TN36 is more expensive, with the batteries.
I think I will still go with the M43, the only thing I am still confused about is the Emitters, which ones should i choose?
I would say the S4 2B but RMM recently added the option for a Nichia 219C set up. I edited this post because I originally stated that the 219C would probably provide more flood and throw but RMM said that they S4 2B would still be brighter.
I bought mine from RMM. I ordered it on Friday, it was on my door step when I got home. The batteries are charging right now, just waiting to melt the darkness away. Again I literally just dropped $200 on a light. Up until this point $60 was the most I had spent.
I got NW S3 3D————————————7010lm——————-32,000cd—————————-4885K in sandstone. It’s almost like a subtle gold honestly.
good choices between turbo and lowlow (prefer UI 2)
LED button colors and blinkies are fun
build quality fantastic, should be a light for life
cons:
small
gets hot fast on turbo, and the 50 degree thermal stepdown is a bit high as the light can become hard to hold, yet it’s still not stepped the power output down. and turbo is so addicting that you really want to use turbo like it’s medium or something. but then you can’t hold the damn thing.
once the light gets hot, it’s hard to cool it off while still using… most every output still at least maintains the temperature of already-to-hot-to-hold.
springs in the tailcap smash down pretty quickly, and then the smallest taps or bounces will cause the light to change modes or turn off altogether
runtime is still rather low even with 4 batteries, as the light eats a bunch of amps in most modes. you end up with a pocket full of batteries “in case” (but i do tend to run turbo or high a lot)
changing through the different modes can be inconvenient depending on which mode you are in and which mode you are after
all the clicking to get certain features turned on or off is a bit ridiculous. so the 5th click and hold is for turbo strobe, but what was 4th click no hold? and what is 4th click and hold? this goes on all way up into the teens, and hell if i remember half of them… ends up i cannot turn the LED button off, or turn the blinking on or off… almost need a cheat sheet in the tailcap for the 4 functions you do want
it … doesn’t turn on or off instantly. i recognize that’s a fairly small complaint, but when you blow 8000 lumens in someone’s face by accident, you’d prefer to turn that off in a not-ramping fashion. (i thought it something else in the ocean; i didnt’ realize it was some drunk guy who wasn’t particularly thrilled to have ~7 car headlights in his face at maybe 5 meters. who gets in the ocean at night anyway??)
this is true on the way up too; i want turbo nao… i know it’s only a milisecond, and it seems cute when switching between modes, the ramping. but on the on/off i would prefer the instant on/off
I’m just roughly guessing, maybe 40k-60k? It’s my most popular video by far, and responsible for just over 1/5 of my total channel views. Google “flashlight review,” and see what the top hit under “video.”
I’ll have to test mine when I get home, I leave batteries in mine all the time and haven’t had that issue yet but I also don’t really bump it around much.
ok so likely i mooshed them myself; i was like “they say extra long, protected cells don’t fit but let me try anyway…” smash.
so obviously don’t do that
but there’s a thread going elsewhere about the light in general, and a few others have brought up the smashed spring problem (and i assume they weren’t as dense as me as to attempt to use protected cells in a light that specfically says not to).
there’s even an image, in post #1190ish of this thread.
That’s not entirely accurate. The version I reviewed way back when DID accept protected cells. At least Sanyo 2600 mah ones. My new one yesterday no longer works with protected cells. So there must have been some minor revisions along the way, or some difference in the light I originally tested, to the current or all production models.
