Unfortunately, I haven’t had time to try it yet. I think it will be great for an older light I use on my bike, when I get a chance to play.
I do not remember who called this stuff “Mag-fix” for being able to de ring stock maglite beams, but they were absolutely correct… My Mini Mag beam looks awesome and as soon as I find my 2D, I will hit it up too….
Nitecore HC50, BLF A6, Convoy S2 XP-L red, thanks Boaz.
I used the DC-FIX on three lights
- my “working” aka less then perfect (reflector dull) P36 a it is a definite plus!, but I am in no rush to use it on my shelf queen versions. High power lights are nice when you can see that they have punch.
- on a project s7 triple nichia 219C 5k, used it on the medium flood TIR and compared it against the full flood TIR version (more below).
- on a solarforce 3.04 amp 3C XML2 emitter, for me makes the light much more friendly and usable.
Something I noticed is that it really will not make a thrower, a flooder. But it does seem to blend (a lot) and broaden (a little) the hotspot out nicely with any light. Again it does not turn a thrower into a mule.
As far as #2 the (before) medium flood is/was brighter then the full flood (which takes a lot more juice, but for me the full flood is a nicer profile if you have the power).
(after) the full flood is now brighter then medium flood with DC-FIX. the medium flood is now more like the full (but still not as even as the full flood) but at the cost of not being as bright and focused as before (makes sense if you think about it). 
So in total I like using DC-FIX but it is not for every light. But for lights with “issues” it is a great way to make them more friendly and usable.
I think it should be a given for headlamps with enough umph.
As far as application I did not follow the instructions I just popped out the lens to be covered, cut a square large enough to cover the lens. cleaned the lens and pealed and stuck the DC-FIX on to the lens, then I just used scissors to trim off the excess DC-FIX, no sweat easy peasy.
Dang - no time yet to try it, but from all the posts on applying it, totally confirms Boaz's enthusiasm for it 
. Got a few lights that could use some TLC fix'n, so hope to give it a go in the next few days.
Coming from film without adhesive this seems harder to put on and defiantly harder to get off . OTOH it stays and isn’t going anywhere either …To remove it i use a hair dryer to soften it up and it peels off easily ,
to apply after peeling back the paper i install it like you’d do automotive privacy film …wet … so it can be moved around a little then I work out any water under the film .
If you can unscrew a bezel and pop out the glass than obviously it’s a much easier way to go by just sticking it on and trimming the edges .
I keep looking at a couple other kinds diffuser film as well but can’t find a good source yet .
Thanks for the hair dryer tip. I does come off easier with heat…
I am seriously looking around to find where else I can use this stuff… Try some on your remote for your TV… 8) Works for me…
I like this stuff! I tried it on a Nitecore MH20. It smoothed out the beam, made it more floody with less of a hot spot. Don’t get me wrong, there is still more light in the center, but it is not as hot. Ditto on a stock S2. I find that for a GP (general purpose) light I find the hot centers distracting. And I tried a piece on an old Maglite 3D. Nicer but it still is just a weak light, just a smoother, no rings, weak light. Back to experimenting… maybe a second layer to see what happens….
DC Fix won’t make your Mag brighter, but a XHP-50 might!
Yes !!!
I still have more DC-FIX available ...
In the age old tradition of BLF ... I bought a bunch .
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I am still surprised that the others that have ordered this have not chimed in… I know it is not every ones cup of tea, but it would be nice to hear of others opinions.
Just used on on the Xtar H2 16340/CR123 headlight.
its a very narrow (especially for a head light) stock the CW emitter was not bad but I dropped in a 219C and then added the DC-Fix.
now, these very reasonably priced lights, are just right for CQL (Close Quarters Living) not a throwing light anymore but a small head lamp was never really throwy to start with.
Also soldering in there 219C emitters was about as small as I want to solder.
I got a letter in the mail a couple of days ago, upon opening it, I found several sheets of what appeared to be paper. After several minutes of head scratching, some pondering, and a little contemplation, I realized it was the famous DC-Fix.
Well now, I have a perfect candidate for the famous DC-Fix, an irritatingly spotty, and post dedoming ringy headlamp, containing one particularly filthy latticebright LED.
The Canditate
The results (mouseover for the famous DC-Fix)
I’d love to grab a couple. Will pm when I get back to a computer.
Thanks for the beamshots Lord Niksidor I’m guessing there is even less hotspot than the camera is showing . i’ve diffused a jacob A60 just for fun but never done a Lattice bright … thats a classic 
Quite true, to the eye the hotspot is less discernable, but I suspect given the still fairly impressive throw that the intensity in the hotspot shown on the camera is a fair bit higher than the rest of the spill, even out at 175 degrees there is usable light, very awesome. Also a fairly noticeable color temperature shift, maybe 7500k down to 6500k, something I'm certainly not complaining about. That LB LED is gone as soon as my fasttech order arrives :evil:
Might as well de-dome it and see if you win the tint lottery … whats the worst thing that could happen ? it’s not like you’ll ever want to put it in anything else anyway
PM Sent!