Convoy L2...Guess who's back???

Yeah well, getting back to the L2, with out the 2x26650 additional tube |( , I won’t be buying any more, (I like having options) :wink: I have a L2 and a Host coming, I’ll get rid of the L2 and make the host the way I want. With the 2x26650 tube, I would have bought a few more, that ain’t happening now, I have enough single cells and lady lights already :Sp

Agree… a light so heavy (and long if multi-cell) is not practical to operate via a clicky. Also, as mentioned, best of both worlds, why not? I’m all for the side switch, PLEASE! What does Simon mean by “side switch is no good for DIY”. Can we get clarity on this, because then we can clearly understand why he does not like the e-switch?! So, if the DIYers want a side switch, how can it not be good for DIY :wink:

Maybe something is getting lost in translation since English isn’t Simon’s first language? Maybe he’s confusing switch mounted on driver, not a driver that has wires going to a side mounted switch?

Personally I like e-switch. If it’s mounted on the driver I will just design one to fit that light specifically, it can have any functionality I like, as long as its a good quality switch. If it’s wired to the body then even better. Ever since getting the X6R I’m hooked on e-switch lights.

Well, many e-switch lights have the switch mounted on the driver itself (as most of you know). Maybe he means if he does that, it wouldn’t be good for a “DIY host” because the driver wouldn’t be included?

And I imagine it’s overall a more time consuming design to produce, thus being more expensive.

Just a button with 2 wires coming out would work fine and not get in the way. The Solarforce M9 has this and it can just be wired to 2 of the attiny pins if needed, there is a thread on it somewhere. A driver mounted switch would be a bit harder to mod.

Guess what friends… Simon heard us. I had a little heart-to-heart with him and explained what BLF was saying. He is going “back to the drawing board”. We will have our side switch. It should be a dual switch like the L4. Thanks for all the responses. It gave me just the leverage I needed to make him understand. :bigsmile: Go TEAM BLF!

He explained that the biggest reason for getting rid of the side switch was that he couldn’t find a good XHP70 driver with side switch. The LDCH manufactory said that there were some problem with the driver because the temperature was so high. It’s going to push the new design back a little but we should have our wish. Good experienced advice with this specific issue would be appreciated so feel free to either post here or PM me with suggestions. Maybe we can help Simon resolve the issue. I don’t have experience with LDCH drivers but I know some of you do. He has to work within certain parameters and unlike many of us he can’t just buy his drivers from Mountain Electronics. He does want our input it just takes a little effort sometimes to make him understand. Once he realized what the majority of us wanted he thanked us for the input and he’s working on resolving the driver issue. He truly does respect his friends at BLF a lot. This is good stuff!

Again, I found the driver mounted switch's less reliable - they break. Of course depends on the switch design, but if the switch allows the user to directly apply force further in than the mechanical switch engages in the full down position, the driver mounted switch's usually only are attached to the board with no support on top.

I have to say, it amazing how responsive Simon is. Even though it will be more work for him considering he doesn’t currently have of a good XHP70 side switch driver and needs to find one.

I wouldnt include the side switch on the driver board at all, a remote switch and 2 wires will be better

Yeah, my L2 is on its way to me :D.

About the driver for that new monster. What about a FET (+1) driver from Richard? I believe there has to be some changes made to let our current FET (+1) driver work with 6V leds.

And dont forget to give Simon a big THANKS on behalf of BLF! Seriously the way he listens to us is just exceptional.

Thank you Simon!

Well, maybe it's bout time he looks into cutting a deal with Richard. I'd love to see one of Richard's driver in there, then we can re-program it as we see fit Wink. Certainly Simon could get the drivers made over there cheaper, just like with the A6 driver being sold by BangGood now. Heck, he can use my e-switch firmware is he wants to.

Looks like the A6 driver has been removed, just did a search

You need a direct link, here:

Out of stock anyways. Either it's some sort of placeholder/temp listing or someone came along and cleaned them out.

Thats the same page I went on. 404 page not found.

Strange, it works on desktop mode, not on mobile mode

Whenever an owner has time, I’d love to see pictures of the inside of the head and driver pocket, and also a comparison lineup with a C8 and an X3 or Couri or something.

:nerd_face:

Mine was shipped out yesterday - but I have all of the demanded comparsion-lights :wink:

Received my light and host just now. Very well packaged, zero damage, pretty fast shipping! As always
great quality and nice matte ano! The shelf is 4mm thick, but has a .500mm deep roughing process drill tip divot and is anodized. No big deal remove the ano and fill the divot with AS5. I like using that or Loctite metal putty? But naturally would not want it at all. The mcpcb shelf is over size (20mm-mcpcb is sloppy) with a some what large radius about a #3, plenty of room to float your emitter centering ring into the reflector? Again I like straight walled, and a little under size to make contact with the star? The driver (17mm) pocket is kind of sloppy, with what looks to be a #3 radius on the turning tool, so not straight walled, the shelf for the driver is thin, I wouldn’t think it would best for heat sinking a LD-2 or Buck driver? It is 9.16 deep from the driver shelf to back of the emitter shelf. Me, I’m going to open up the mcpcb emitter pocket and machine the divot out (1mm deeper) and put a stripped copper mcpcb (26mm-maxtoch) underneath a 26mm maxtoch, and a de-domed xpl direct solder bonded with a FETDD and call it GOOD! :wink:

Thanks for the info.

I don’t suppose you have a 26700 you could try in it?

I’m measuring 71.21mm? Does that help? Sorry I don’t have a 26700. But I have a Vapower and added 2 copper washers at 3.81mm plus the battery at 67.4 naturally bottomed out the springs but the light came on? Now if you need more, you could shim the Battery tube out at least .5mm f need be?