BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

Maybe try warming the head+pill without the battery tube then ice the pill and quickly twist.

I started compiling some of your guy's advice into post #2 but (I'm guessing) because I started this thread with a simple post editor I can't go back and use the advanced when I go to edit it. Luckily I was able to save it as a word doc but I really wanted the text color option or something besides bullet points to get it organized. I'll figure it out somehow.....

Just use the Advanced Text Editor.

By clicking the Input format, located directly below the text box.

You can add color.

Change font types.

Change font size.


And highlight text.

And for really complex editing, do it on a word document, then cut & paste it into the Advanced Text Editor.

Hah! Thanks! I had gone into my account and changed it for topics and comments but I didn't realize you could change it with input format! I probably clicked that when I first started but didn't really want the advanced editor and then totally forgot it was there. I'm pretty new to forums......:) Thanks again!

FWIW, you can also just add some HTML and/or CSS to your posts when you need extra formatting. It works, and that’s what the advanced editor does. It also makes quoting easier for the rest of us, since it won’t have gratuitous   symbols and <span style=“foo”> tags and redundant attributes everywhere getting in the way of the text.

For example, if I quote 1dash1’s post above… it looks like this:

My anodized A6 is bezel is also stuck, how do you mean heat the head+pill then ice the pill when the A6 has a shelf? :~

Heat the part with female threads and cool the part with the male threads. People have also wrapped in tape and gently used pliers. Or also used penetrating oil leaving the light on it's head so it doesn't get in the driver.

Ok, i got it now.

So if I run it on turbo a bunch of times and use some ice or something to cool the bezel it might help to loosen the threads.

The head and pill should unscrew from the battery tube as a unit if they’re stuck together so yes, just run it on turbo until it’s pretty warm but you can still grab it to unscrew then immediately stick the pill end on an ice cube for 5-10 seconds. A wide rubber band doubled over a few times on each piece might help with grip.

YEEEESSSS :smiley:

I got i open, and it was so easy when I used all the tricks together.

First i heated it by running it in turbo a few times without holding it to get it extra hot, and while it ran I took some ice cubes and crushed them to a slush. Then i quickly removed the searingly hot head and put it head down in the ice slush for ~10 seconds. and then i used a silicon oven liner for extra grip and finally I got it open easy :slight_smile:

The threads where super gritty, but now i can at least make this anodized BLF A6 in to the triple it was always meant to be.

Thanks guys :slight_smile:

Thinking outside the box. Great idea.

Good job! Dale suggested above using metal polish on the threads to smooth things out.

I have some old rubber strip left from a rubber powered model airplane I made. There is enough of it to increase the leverage as well as the grip.

Thanks, it is always even more rewarding when you do succeed after failing a bunch times :slight_smile:

About the gritty threads, i cleaned them with a toothbrush and greased them with some raw organic coconut oil. And now they are smoooooth :wink:

Coconut oil as thread lube?

I usually go with a teflon-based (PTFE) grease… though I’ve been lazy about it lately and have like a dozen lights I haven’t properly cleaned and lubed yet.

I have some “Super Lube” from The O-ring Store, but am going back to furniture wax with carnauba, bee’s wax and orange oil. It seems to be more slippery.

Yeah it works great, i don’t use thread lubes that are going to get close to my skin that i can’t eat, :bigsmile: and coconut oil dosen’t go rancid because of the mct component in it.
And if it gets on your skin it is an amazing skin oil.

I would never use fluoride based compounds(teflon) close to my skin, i don’t even use teflon based cookware only ceramic coated ones, stainless and glass, teflon is nasty toxic stuff :Sp

Interesting, furniture wax could be a good alternative.

I think i am going to experiment with some coconut oil, bees wax, jojoba & liquid lanolin oil combination to see if i can get a longer lasting and even slipperier thread lube.

If anyone wants to try, the trick is to heat them up together so they mix before gently cooling them down.

Doesn’t the non-conducting Lube increase the resistance?

(There is a post somewhere that even the supposedly conducting-lube is non-conducting.)

I don’t think lubricants increase resistance, because they are squeezed out where the metals touch. There is a thin film that may remain, but that doesn’t seem to affect resistance(?) They reduce corrosion that does add resistance, especially in things that haven’t been used for a while. I think lubrication also helps by slowing the wear of gold plating. The gold is another way of avoiding corrosion.