My anodized A6 is bezel is also stuck, how do you mean heat the head+pill then ice the pill when the A6 has a shelf? :~
Heat the part with female threads and cool the part with the male threads. People have also wrapped in tape and gently used pliers. Or also used penetrating oil leaving the light on it's head so it doesn't get in the driver.
Ok, i got it now.
So if I run it on turbo a bunch of times and use some ice or something to cool the bezel it might help to loosen the threads.
The head and pill should unscrew from the battery tube as a unit if they’re stuck together so yes, just run it on turbo until it’s pretty warm but you can still grab it to unscrew then immediately stick the pill end on an ice cube for 5-10 seconds. A wide rubber band doubled over a few times on each piece might help with grip.
YEEEESSSS 
I got i open, and it was so easy when I used all the tricks together.
First i heated it by running it in turbo a few times without holding it to get it extra hot, and while it ran I took some ice cubes and crushed them to a slush. Then i quickly removed the searingly hot head and put it head down in the ice slush for ~10 seconds. and then i used a silicon oven liner for extra grip and finally I got it open easy 
The threads where super gritty, but now i can at least make this anodized BLF A6 in to the triple it was always meant to be.
Thanks guys
Thinking outside the box. Great idea.
Good job! Dale suggested above using metal polish on the threads to smooth things out.
I have some old rubber strip left from a rubber powered model airplane I made. There is enough of it to increase the leverage as well as the grip.
Thanks, it is always even more rewarding when you do succeed after failing a bunch times
About the gritty threads, i cleaned them with a toothbrush and greased them with some raw organic coconut oil. And now they are smoooooth 
Coconut oil as thread lube?
I usually go with a teflon-based (PTFE) grease… though I’ve been lazy about it lately and have like a dozen lights I haven’t properly cleaned and lubed yet.
I have some “Super Lube” from The O-ring Store, but am going back to furniture wax with carnauba, bee’s wax and orange oil. It seems to be more slippery.
Yeah it works great, i don’t use thread lubes that are going to get close to my skin that i can’t eat, :bigsmile: and coconut oil dosen’t go rancid because of the mct component in it.
And if it gets on your skin it is an amazing skin oil.
I would never use fluoride based compounds(teflon) close to my skin, i don’t even use teflon based cookware only ceramic coated ones, stainless and glass, teflon is nasty toxic stuff :Sp
Interesting, furniture wax could be a good alternative.
I think i am going to experiment with some coconut oil, bees wax, jojoba & liquid lanolin oil combination to see if i can get a longer lasting and even slipperier thread lube.
If anyone wants to try, the trick is to heat them up together so they mix before gently cooling them down.
Doesn’t the non-conducting Lube increase the resistance?
(There is a post somewhere that even the supposedly conducting-lube is non-conducting.)
I don’t think lubricants increase resistance, because they are squeezed out where the metals touch. There is a thin film that may remain, but that doesn’t seem to affect resistance(?) They reduce corrosion that does add resistance, especially in things that haven’t been used for a while. I think lubrication also helps by slowing the wear of gold plating. The gold is another way of avoiding corrosion.
Weird maybe, but it seems after I Nyogel bare or close to bare threads, I always seem to get a little more out of the lumens measurements - same cells, everything else the same. Just did that last night, and I've seen it several other times. Nyogel is supposed to be non-conductive, but still seems like the best thing around. I'm so glad a while back I bought a large tube from a BLF member, who bought up a bunch of ol Motorcraft tubes for cheap.
For laughs:
“Forget conductive lube. It doesn’t conduct.”
“Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread”:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?242414-Comprehensive-Grease-and-Lube-Thread
As I said at that time, I am still thoroughly confused about non-conducting/conducting lube on threads.
Nyogel 760g is supposed to be conductive.
“NyoGel® products were developed for wide-temperature applications requiring water and salt-water resistance. The 774 series consists of silica thickened synthetic hydrocarbon of various viscosities depending upon how much mechanical dampening is required of various components. The damping greases also provide good water resistance.
The 756 series utilizes a silica thickened hydrocarbon that includes the incorporation of carbon black since it was designed to be electrically conductive for instrument and bearing applications.”
I'm probably wrong but it's weird: can't find any spec on it yet that says it's conductive.
Here: http://newgateonline.com/media/wysiwyg/Nye-TDS/TDS_NyoGel_760G.pdf
Here: https://www.armytek.com/products/accessories/grease/nyogel-760g.html
While we’re off topic, I would like to say that the lubricant thing is way overdone. The battery tube going into the pill up top should be left alone, dry contact between the two conductive components is best. At the tail, where the battery is removed to charge on a regular basis, only the smallest amount of lube to prevent the o-ring from tearing should be utilized. This will find it’s way onto the threads whether you like it or not, and will need to be cleaned regularly or you’ll be wearing black thread stripes. I try to keep it from being on the bare end of the tube and the contact point in the tail cap as much as possible.
I’ve had to repair lights where someone used way too much lube and the resulting black mess down in the tail cap virtually blocked the pcb from making contact. Thoroughly cleaned the amperage went up to the expected values.
Brylcream, a little dab’ll do ya.
NyoGel 756G—-Electrically Conductive
Obviously, too much of this can migrate into the driver and short it out. Not good.