Does this mean each light will come with 2 switches? One lighted switch (installed) plus an additional unlighted switch (internal part only).
[quote=ToyKeeper]
I’m convinced you are very thoroughly, but please let me ask: Is there a noteworthy influence of the charge status (cell voltage) or temperature on the timing?
The lighted tail cap utilizes two small leds and a resistor, one on each side of the small switch. This is the area that I normally use to drill a hole through the pcb for a through-board wire bypass that goes from the switch itself to the top of the spring in one piece of silicone coated copper wire.
So, Where does the bypass go now? Is one of the 2 LED’s more important than the other? Can one be sacrified to make room for the current flowing wire? Will the tail cap then only show light from one side? Do green grasshoppers have green a**holes?
Yes, I know, I’m full of it.
Yes, a full cell has a longer “long press” than an empty cell, but only when the tailcap is lit. And the overall temperature is known to affect the timing too, but I still need to measure it for these lights. I’ve been harping on Manker to use X7R-class capacitors to reduce this effect. Results are pending…
However, getting too hot shouldn’t be much of an issue regardless. These have thermal regulation and much bigger heat sinks, so they simply don’t get as hot as the A6.
I personally don’t think you gain much (if anything) by doing the pcb-bypass vs a spring-only bypass on this pcb because there aren’t any “traces” per-se in the power path, just big copper pours.
If you did want to drill, drill a resistor pad. They’re redundant. There are Eagle screenshots in my thread that show exactly where the traces are too.
The Al lights don’t need a clear coat and it’s the economy model. If the price/cost of the SS/Cu goes up $5, the Al should go up $4, or something like that. Am I wrong here?
[Ouch, this backbencher is gettin’ no love.]
Thank you.
It will probably be offered as an option to keep costs down.
You got me, put me down for a SS Cu set, NW.
Oh shucks only 400? So I can’t ask for serial 666? These things are going to be hot enough for it! :evil:
EDIT, in that case put me down for another SS/Cu CW at #333. And one more Al WW at #222.
Okay put me on the list for another set of SS/Cu NW
I would like to give up my spot on the Al list.
59. Wedlpine Al NW
In exchange for #188 on the Al list.
Is the protective coating to prevent the copper from tarnishing? From my experience, copper tarnishes easily after coming into contact with salt from sweat. I hope the coating is able to last. Any idea what kind of coating will be used?
Thanks a lot for the pictures and description. This might work… Especially if I could switch out one of the resistors. The meteor switch is way too bright, for my tastes and while I think it’s a great idea, it’s too distracting to keep in a dark room. Ideally it’s just enough glow to locate it. If you can light your way by it, it’s too bright (for me). The last two pages have answered pretty much all my questions. I’ll have to see in person, how I like it and if it needs any modding. I did not intend to slight all the hard work put into the light or the switch. I can’t wait for the light!
Done correctly, everyone I know that has tried the lighted tailcap has loved it. The “annoying” factor is determined both by brightness and color. Green is very “bright” looking at almost any resistor setting, and I would never have one in my bedroom. The one I keep by my bed is red. Once you turn on the light fixture in the room you would never know the tailcap was lit, it’s that dim. Even after my eyes are dark adjusted, it doesn’t show up in my peripheral vision, I have to sweep it with my eyes to see it. Very unobtrusive, but easy to find even if I knock it off the nightstand.
Sounds about right then. Thanks!
I figured someone would have a answer for that…….
I like the lighted tail caps!!!
This Group Buy has only been in progress since July 10th as a thread (not counting all the work before it went public)
So as Group Buys go this has been very fast because of all the work from a number of very talented people.
Sooooooooooo not that I have any say on when this light will go into production but it would seen like it would be nice to have them in peoples hands before Christmas if they wanted to gift them to people (this year)
All the changes others would like to be made could be incorperated into the NEXT BLF light, if anyone is willing to go thru all the pain again…………
I believe we’re close to making this happen, close enough to get em delivered before Christmas? Well, possibly. But the main goal here has been to ensure that they’re right, so we’re not pushing for anything to be done quickly over correctly. That said, I guess we’ll get em when we get em. (it’s nip and tuck though, to be honest)
And you can bet that Kronological is glutton enough for pain and misery that he’ll be doing another group buy. 
… bad, naughty, BAD later A6 units.
I trust they were properly disciplined
for switching their parts without permission.
Creativity on the part of the hardware is to be deprecated.
Agreed Hank, I applied proper punishment to mine til they were red and blue (and purple and green and shrunken in shame) Then I brought in beryllium replacements that promised to behave.