BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

Done correctly, everyone I know that has tried the lighted tailcap has loved it. The “annoying” factor is determined both by brightness and color. Green is very “bright” looking at almost any resistor setting, and I would never have one in my bedroom. The one I keep by my bed is red. Once you turn on the light fixture in the room you would never know the tailcap was lit, it’s that dim. Even after my eyes are dark adjusted, it doesn’t show up in my peripheral vision, I have to sweep it with my eyes to see it. Very unobtrusive, but easy to find even if I knock it off the nightstand.

Sounds about right then. Thanks!

I figured someone would have a answer for that…….

I like the lighted tail caps!!!

This Group Buy has only been in progress since July 10th as a thread (not counting all the work before it went public)
So as Group Buys go this has been very fast because of all the work from a number of very talented people.

Sooooooooooo not that I have any say on when this light will go into production but it would seen like it would be nice to have them in peoples hands before Christmas if they wanted to gift them to people (this year)

All the changes others would like to be made could be incorperated into the NEXT BLF light, if anyone is willing to go thru all the pain again…………

I believe we’re close to making this happen, close enough to get em delivered before Christmas? Well, possibly. But the main goal here has been to ensure that they’re right, so we’re not pushing for anything to be done quickly over correctly. That said, I guess we’ll get em when we get em. (it’s nip and tuck though, to be honest)

And you can bet that Kronological is glutton enough for pain and misery that he’ll be doing another group buy. :slight_smile:

… bad, naughty, BAD later A6 units.
I trust they were properly disciplined
for switching their parts without permission.
Creativity on the part of the hardware is to be deprecated.

Agreed Hank, I applied proper punishment to mine til they were red and blue (and purple and green and shrunken in shame) Then I brought in beryllium replacements that promised to behave.

A good spanking? :smiley:

I am very curious how that works, is the big copper pours somehow connected between the sides ot the board without the vias or does all the current flow through the vias.

And if it does flow through the vias could you please add as many vias as would fit to lower resistance as low as possible for max amp?

Still comes down to the springs though, they have to be able to carry high amperage or the solid nature of the pcb is of no consequence. And the driver up top doesn’t have the benefit of the heavy pours. The wire bypass will help the spring carry the load, the heavy pour on the switch pcb will probably make it un-necessary to drill through it (I only saw a mild improvement, the sample Cu X5 with spring bypasses the normal way jumped a mere 14 lumens when drilling the tail pcb. 1490-1504 lumens) so if they do indeed get a dual spring that can carry the amperage it won’t be necessary to do anything to these lights, they’ll be fully capable right out of the box. A TRUE factory hot rod!

The SS/Cu pill X6 is just such an incredibly solid feeling light, the knurling is robust and it really does give you the feel and impression of a light that’s going to last through whatever comes it’s way. I’ sure that it’d be beat up and dented floating around in a tool box, especially the copper pill, but I don’t see that stopping it from working like new for years to come. Replacing the glass lens with an acrylic one would solve the breakability weakness for those that are especially rough with their tools. I have several lights that I want to put the UCLp lens in, with a couple on the way that I need measurements for, so I’ll be ordering from Chris pretty soon and seeing what kind of differences we can look for in swapping to the higher quality AR of the UCLp.

All current flows through vias, but you’d be surprised how much current a via can carry, especially over such a tiny distance. I’m going to re-tool a few of the boards soon and might add 1 or 2 more vias, but again that doesn’t apply to this groupbuy.

For true hot rods, you might see some gains from a spring(s) bypass, but I just don’t think you need to bypass the pcb.

For what it’s worth, wight was always good at keeping the driver pours as big as possible as well.

Soooo, we are getting double springs too?? I think I might have to go + 2SS/Cu now :slight_smile:

Oh yeah, what about those light pink boots? Are we getting clear or pink or ? TK is so helpful…except for this category :wink: I just think they look great with the blue LED underneath and the copper color, I’d want to buy some now in advance even, if we arent getting pink.

At present, I am down for one Al set in NW (#91).

Please add one SS/Cu set in NW.

The new total should be one of each.

Thanks!

Thanks very interesting, and sorry everybody if i confuse anyone about talking about features that does not apply to this GB 0:)

I get that a lot of current can pass through a via, but what i am wondering is how much lower resistance for example a doubling of vias would give on a hypothetical bord with big copper pours.
I just wonder how much if any, extra performance we could get by taking that aspect to its limit on switch boards and drivers.
Because every little less voltage drop helps to up output on these high Vf cree leds :slight_smile:

True what your’e saying there cajampa, but we’re only talking about a distance of 1.5mm for the current to travel. Usually the distance is a big factor in diameter of wire needed, so once you have a proper amount of via’s through a solid pour you’re not going to see a measurable (maybe I should say noticeable) gain by adding more. There is only so much room on the board, any extra is pretty much covered in via’s already, so it is starting to become a weaking factor on the board… remember that we have spring pressure against the center of the board and if you drop a light and it falls directly on either end it could feasibly cause the board to break on impact due to the kinetic energy of the cell slamming the spring to full compression against the center pad. Compromise rears it’s ugly head.

I wouldn’t worry about extra vias weakening the board because the ospark boards are really thick and stiff, + i very often fill the vias with solder if i solder a wire there or should install a switch and there is a bunch of vias just waiting to be filled.

Before we actually start hearing about switch boards cracking on impact i don’t think we should worry about it, anyways i rather get extra performance now and fix and repair the light if it even where to be a problem than limit performance before we even know it to be an issue And remember most pcb’s in stock lights are MUCH weaker and flimsier than a fat ospark board with big copper pours all over, and i have never heard of those cracking from impact after a drop.

I was ad-libbing :stuck_out_tongue:

:smiley:

At #123 for Al set.
Please add +1 Al NW

Thanks

I also do care about aesthetics. I will fit as many vias as I can without making the thing ugly by my standards. If I knew an extra via or two would make a noticeable difference, I would screw the aesthetics and drop vias everywhere, but in my experience once you get up to 5-6 vias extras don’t do much.
…………….
I’m going to add a hashtag to all these posts:
#SideTalk #NotGBRelated

Aesthetics is a good point and I love a nice symmetrically designed part, but i personally would always chose extra performance if it where there to be had on a part that can’t been seen though. Because that little enjoyment of seeing it when i build it, pales in comparison for me with the perfectionist enjoyment of knowing you have taken every steps you know how to get max performance & visual light out of the build.

You said one or two extra via after 5-6 would probably not do much but what if you dropped 20 or 40 vias on a non lighted (to get more room for vias) switchboard only made for max amp?

And isen’t this what we do a lot around here trying to find ways to up performance a little more and little more all the time, i think a switch board built for max amp would have its place among all the other advancement we have done around here.
I would certainly use one if it was available :wink:

I mean after 5 or 6 it stops making any real difference. Even with the touchy Vf’s of high bin cree’s, I think the difference between 6 vias and 8 vias would be unnoticeable, and between 8 vias and 12 would be borderline unmeasureable with normal tools.

The absolute most you could fit in the spring pad side would probably be around 15, and then you wouldn’t have any surface left to solder the spring and wire to.

Let’s make a deal: I’ll make a non-lighted board just for “max amps” next time I work on it (soon), if you agree to compare the lighted board to the “max amp” board and post results.

#SideTalk #NotGBRelated