D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

Hah so I take it you do like the idea of pot on the spring side.

So what’s the verdict on pot footprint? Did we use a too-small size? I want to get my board updated tonight, I’ll need to order some little ones.

Be aware that those tiny pots tend to be touchy.

I think the one I’m currently using is 2x2 but going to create and update to 3x3 as they are much more common.

Yeah…. Thats partly why I didn’t put mine in the springpad yet. I feel like I’m going to have to adjust it while power is applied to get it right anyways

LOL, I had missed that you suggested the pot-on-spring-side already, sorry about that :-)

The solder pad lay-out that I posted above is at least shared by two brands (SR Passives found on Ebay, Bourns found on Digikey) so that may be a desirable size?

Btw, in my EDC (that has a lighted tailcap) there is more than enough space and depth in the middle of the spring, even when fully compressed (a typical 3303 pot is just 1.5mm high)

Have updated the .lbr file here

As mentioned above I have swapped the pins on the POT so the case is ground.

Jay, can I order that?

Based on this diagram, I don’t think it matters which of the two legs you use, you’ll just have to turn the pot the opposite way. I think that’s how it works.

Ahhh so it you use 1 and 3 its the max value. Thats ok then.

16mm

17mm

20mm

Perhaps to dot the i's and cross the t's, on the switch side the switch-pad that connects to the spring pad on the other side should not fully stretch to the edge to prevent a possible short to the tailcap-body.

Over time the slide will oxidize and require cleaning and movement to keep things working correctly. Think a volume knob that is introducing static when it is turned… Some of us here are old enough to remember that. So, keep a can of R5 handy!

Any tweaks or changes you guys want made just let me know I’ll finish it off tonight

In the course of this hobby, no EDC that I thought was the perfect one has lasted more than 3 months in my pocket before it was replaced by a different (different=always better ) one. But it is a good thing to think about that of course :-)

can pyro/djozz link to the page where we are getting these pot measurements (or ordering from)?

also, what springs are everyone using? I think I could get my switches to work if my springs were a tiny bit bigger.

I just ordered these:

For the sizes, google 3303 potentiometer (most hits direct to Bourns pots), or 3x3 potentiometer.

For my EDC I used the stock switch that came with the Supfire S1, not the biggest one around but I think I can fit the 3x3.5x1.2mm pot in there.

another link (I go for 100K but perhaps 50K is enough):

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-3X3-100K-SMD-Adjustable-Resistor-Potentiometer-20-Original-Panasonic/32507640492.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.75.kNTaAw&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_6_21_79_78_77_92_91_22_80,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_9

Would you have the model # or a link to your switches?

I was hoping for something closer to 25kohm…. I’ve never had to use a higher value than 22.1kohm, plus I have the other resistor pad in series bring it down a touch more. I’m worried 0-100kohm in one tiny pot is going to be a nightmare to tune…

Still better than soldering/unsoldering resistors till you get it right though.

I think this is what I have. Honestly I think it’ll fit under my springs, I’m just worried it’ll be too easy to bridge solder to the inside switch pins. I’m not worried about the outside pins because the case is neutral. I’ll do a board in about 4 hours.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Slide-Power-Off-On-Panel-PCB-MINI-SMD-Switch-SPM-/120731615109?hash=item1c1c2a3f85:g:EbIAAOxykVNRw~l6