D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

Jay, can I order that?

Based on this diagram, I don’t think it matters which of the two legs you use, you’ll just have to turn the pot the opposite way. I think that’s how it works.

Ahhh so it you use 1 and 3 its the max value. Thats ok then.

16mm

17mm

20mm

Perhaps to dot the i's and cross the t's, on the switch side the switch-pad that connects to the spring pad on the other side should not fully stretch to the edge to prevent a possible short to the tailcap-body.

Over time the slide will oxidize and require cleaning and movement to keep things working correctly. Think a volume knob that is introducing static when it is turned… Some of us here are old enough to remember that. So, keep a can of R5 handy!

Any tweaks or changes you guys want made just let me know I’ll finish it off tonight

In the course of this hobby, no EDC that I thought was the perfect one has lasted more than 3 months in my pocket before it was replaced by a different (different=always better ) one. But it is a good thing to think about that of course :-)

can pyro/djozz link to the page where we are getting these pot measurements (or ordering from)?

also, what springs are everyone using? I think I could get my switches to work if my springs were a tiny bit bigger.

I just ordered these:

For the sizes, google 3303 potentiometer (most hits direct to Bourns pots), or 3x3 potentiometer.

For my EDC I used the stock switch that came with the Supfire S1, not the biggest one around but I think I can fit the 3x3.5x1.2mm pot in there.

another link (I go for 100K but perhaps 50K is enough):

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-3X3-100K-SMD-Adjustable-Resistor-Potentiometer-20-Original-Panasonic/32507640492.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.75.kNTaAw&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_6_21_79_78_77_92_91_22_80,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_9

Would you have the model # or a link to your switches?

I was hoping for something closer to 25kohm…. I’ve never had to use a higher value than 22.1kohm, plus I have the other resistor pad in series bring it down a touch more. I’m worried 0-100kohm in one tiny pot is going to be a nightmare to tune…

Still better than soldering/unsoldering resistors till you get it right though.

I think this is what I have. Honestly I think it’ll fit under my springs, I’m just worried it’ll be too easy to bridge solder to the inside switch pins. I’m not worried about the outside pins because the case is neutral. I’ll do a board in about 4 hours.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Slide-Power-Off-On-Panel-PCB-MINI-SMD-Switch-SPM-/120731615109?hash=item1c1c2a3f85:g:EbIAAOxykVNRw~l6

My idea is to bridge the other resistor pad and have the full range to adjust (the bleeder resistor will determine the maximum brightness) , and the 100K is to be able to effectively switch the lighted tail off. I will see about the tunability. (I have not found logarithmic pots in this size yet, just lineair ones. Come to think of it, if logarithmic pots are used, the orientation of the pot does matter )

What is the orientation for logarithmic pots then? On mine with a linear pot, clockwise would make the led’s brighter.

don't know, have to look that up.....

Mousers seems to only have the option for lineair potmeters in this size

well that makes it simple enough.

It would literally only take about 45seconds to move the trace to the other pot pin anyways. I just know it will be easier for me to remember right=bright

It is a bit bigger (4.5x4.5x2.55mm), but this Bourns 3314 type will fit the solder pads as well I think, and it is a bit more robust: