D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

another link (I go for 100K but perhaps 50K is enough):

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-3X3-100K-SMD-Adjustable-Resistor-Potentiometer-20-Original-Panasonic/32507640492.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.75.kNTaAw&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_6_21_79_78_77_92_91_22_80,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_9

Would you have the model # or a link to your switches?

I was hoping for something closer to 25kohm…. I’ve never had to use a higher value than 22.1kohm, plus I have the other resistor pad in series bring it down a touch more. I’m worried 0-100kohm in one tiny pot is going to be a nightmare to tune…

Still better than soldering/unsoldering resistors till you get it right though.

I think this is what I have. Honestly I think it’ll fit under my springs, I’m just worried it’ll be too easy to bridge solder to the inside switch pins. I’m not worried about the outside pins because the case is neutral. I’ll do a board in about 4 hours.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Slide-Power-Off-On-Panel-PCB-MINI-SMD-Switch-SPM-/120731615109?hash=item1c1c2a3f85:g:EbIAAOxykVNRw~l6

My idea is to bridge the other resistor pad and have the full range to adjust (the bleeder resistor will determine the maximum brightness) , and the 100K is to be able to effectively switch the lighted tail off. I will see about the tunability. (I have not found logarithmic pots in this size yet, just lineair ones. Come to think of it, if logarithmic pots are used, the orientation of the pot does matter )

What is the orientation for logarithmic pots then? On mine with a linear pot, clockwise would make the led’s brighter.

don't know, have to look that up.....

Mousers seems to only have the option for lineair potmeters in this size

well that makes it simple enough.

It would literally only take about 45seconds to move the trace to the other pot pin anyways. I just know it will be easier for me to remember right=bright

It is a bit bigger (4.5x4.5x2.55mm), but this Bourns 3314 type will fit the solder pads as well I think, and it is a bit more robust:

I still have not got my BLF A6 to work properly.
If I adjust mode to moon then switch it off I get sometimes a mode were the LED did not light up, so the switch is pressed but no light shines…
I used a 680ohm bleeder.

I do like that slotted type better than the “phillips” type.

I don’t think anything bigger will fit

The diagonal measurement of 4.5mm square will be 1.414 times bigger or ~ 6.3 mm which would almost certainly touch the spring when compressed. Definitely need to know what the case metal is grounded to.

On the big one Djozz posted, It looks like it’s just a clip and not connected to anything else. On the smaller ones, I think the case is the same as the “slider” pin

Maybe, maybe not. Depends on the internals. I gotta think it’s likely metal for a reason until proven otherwise. Being a resistor it may only be there for absorbing heat. I would test it against the pins for continuity.

This bigger footprint is causing me fits… Will the smaller footprint we originally were using still work? Just less selection in pots?

Yes but I haven’t found any POTs in that size

The Bourns 3302 series?

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3302W-3-103E/3302W-103ETR-ND/612823

2.75x2.2x1.05mm

Expensive tho if you don’t need to many due to shipping