Perfect fit: the deep carry clip for the BLF A6 tube light fits perfectly on the ZeusRay zoomie — the curve of the clip lines up nicely with the tailcap, and the clip fits snugly into a groove.
One-way swap: the head of the Convoy S2+ fits nicely enough — a bit loose — onto the battery tube of the BLF A6.
But not vice versa — the head of the BLF A6 is a bit too tight to fit the S2+ body.
[typos fixed, thanks Boaz]
Some “3W Police” 2xAA lights will donate one or two tube segments that fit some SK68 clones and some #3 zoomies, to make a 2xAA or a 3xAA out of the SK68 or #3 light.
(the LED head of the 2xAA 3W police has a plastic pill with a purple emitter; that can become a 1xAA with the leftovers, dim enough to be a decent kids’ toy I suppose. There’s a topic here for that.
My EE X6-SE battery tube accepts heads from Convoy S2 and S2+
but they don’t make electrical connection, don’ t light
My EE X6-SE head does not accept either of two Convoy S2+ battery tubes, but it does accept a Convoy S2 battery tube.
One of my two red Convoy S2+ tubes takes my EVVA protected cell fine, the other tube is so snug I’d be afraid of getting the cell stuck in it (both of the red S2+ lights have every sign of being real, not fake — it’s just that their inner diameter happens to be just on the edge for this one cell I had out.
Lots more variation than I expected, even within the Convoy red S2+ lights I have here.
Another case of “slightly loose” works but “slightly tight” doesn’t, I think
EDIT — and note, your particular combinations of parts may vary, that’s the point of collecting first hand experience.
I’d guess it’s more a failure of two things — repeatability and accuracy — so their tolerances are so wide that Lego-ing doesn’t work reliably.
Even assuming they’re using lathes that allows them to specify exactly what thread that lathe produces — how many operators, on how many different lathes, on how many days, are going into this production?
Seriously, these have to be beginners. Once someone’s competent to make truly interchangeable parts in mass production — that operator is going to be working on something more important than cheap flashlights.
Thank goodness, since that might be a nuclear plant or aircraft.
We’re getting the “training wheels” stage of industrial learning.
Quoting from the A6 thread at Thu, 09/10/2015 – 15:22
Quote:
body tubes are 2.732, 2.723, and 2.730 …
… tail cap measurements are .998, 1.000, and 1.000.
The tail cap that measures .998 only works when the 2.732 body tube, but i have to crank the tail cap as tight as I can
Quote:
That’s a perfect illustration why having a production that respects and understands specified tight tolerances matters.
There you have one that is less than .01 too short on one part, and less than .01 too long on the other piece, and — put them together, and hey, this one sample works fine.
Checking one product fails to detect the problem — too much variation around the spec — because some combinations of parts will average out to working properly.
See follow-on comments in that thread for more on tolerances and how you need really tight specs.
I posted a long quote on using micrometers that included:
Quote:
Repeatability is as much a function of my ability to achieve a consistent “touch” as it is the mechanical integrity of the mic.
Here’s an easy test – measure the same thing 10 times and see how much the readings vary.
I routinely see variations of +/-0.0001” on a good day.
There will be some variation — and the variations add up to this kind of problem when parts meet or don’t.
My new BLF A6 legoes with the UF-2100. The uf-2100 tailcap works on the A6 tube and head but I can't get the A6 head to light up on the uf-2100 tube/tailcap.
I’m interested in knowing what other make switches and heads any one has legoed with SolarForce L2 bodies.
I have successfully legoed the black and silver Ultrafire 504b and Uniquefire L2 heads, bodies and switches with the whole Solarforce lineup. I don’t have them myself, but the Spiderfire stainless steel P60 hosts should also lego well.
deal alerts: @ ebay, all flashlights below $5
… reviewed here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/35779 …Legos perfectly with the Ultrafire 501b (at least the cheap host I bought from FT).
Hugsby XP1/XP2. It’s REALLY not recommended to put a 10440 in the XP-1, since the head is different from the XP-2. You could use the XP-2 one with a 10440 on the body of the XP-1 but not the other way around.
I just saw a “read somewhere” note that the MtnElectronics spacers (2 different ones) for the S2 and S2+ may also fit some other lights.
Anyone know for sure?
The A6 BLF clip fits the original Convoy M1 very well. Will post a picture later.
The clip for the Roche F6 fits the Convoy S2+ really well (even better than on the F6) and it is super sturdy. However it is not a deep carry and I don’t know where these can be bought separately.
Tailcaps: the tailcap of my red Convoy S2+ fits and works correctly on the battery tubes for both an Eagle Eye BLF-X6-SE and an Manker A6. (only checked one of each)
The tailcaps for both of those black lights are too tight — they start but won’t screw onto the red Convoy S2+ battery tube.
As noted above — the tolerance for variation is so large on these that a sample of one isn’t proof of any general claim about what fits what.
I’d guess somewhere there are three bins — heads, body tubes, and tailcaps — and whoever assembles the lights just keeps fishing until he finds a complete set and calls it good.
It’s the Goldilocks approach to flashlight construction. Some are too small, some are too large, some are just right.
That’s an oversimplification — threads have to be defined by several different numbers — spacing, depth, slope of the cut, maybe more. We don’t get that kind of precision.
(Or we get the seconds, if there are some that good)
————
Has anyone checked the threads for the retaining rings? I don’t know if those are done to any standard or not.
escereal wrote:
Received mine as well! I added a dollar more to receive a warm white XPL, and it is fantastic. … the tailcap of this X6 IS interchangeable with the BLF X6’s tailcap. Every part legos just fine. The threads are different between the two model lights, but they are able to be mixed and matched.
Perfect fit: the deep carry clip for the BLF A6 tube light fits perfectly on the ZeusRay zoomie — the curve of the clip lines up nicely with the tailcap, and the clip fits snugly into a groove.
One-way swap: the head of the Convoy S2+ fits nicely enough — a bit loose — onto the battery tube of the BLF A6.
But not vice versa — the head of the BLF A6 is a bit too tight to fit the S2+ body.
[typos fixed, thanks Boaz]
Some “3W Police” 2xAA lights will donate one or two tube segments that fit some SK68 clones and some #3 zoomies, to make a 2xAA or a 3xAA out of the SK68 or #3 light.
(the LED head of the 2xAA 3W police has a plastic pill with a purple emitter; that can become a 1xAA with the leftovers, dim enough to be a decent kids’ toy I suppose. There’s a topic here for that.
I'm interested in knowing what other make switches and heads any one has legoed with SolarForce L2 bodies.
Ok, this thread is good!
I will update more when I am not on my phone….I have nothing that legos, sorry… The only ones that do are all the same… Nuts.
Lithium Ion Battery Safety 101
Old Lumens Competition 2020 Modified Light Entry
This light and similar Legos with an Ultrafire 501b to give a an optional different body tube style on your P60:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/30001?page=3#comment-795186
Not really a Lego but the pocket clip from this light fits the 501b as well:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37220
Keepin’ the “B” in BLF
Just thought to try this:
My EE X6-SE battery tube accepts heads from Convoy S2 and S2+
but they don’t make electrical connection, don’ t light
My EE X6-SE head does not accept either of two Convoy S2+ battery tubes, but it does accept a Convoy S2 battery tube.
One of my two red Convoy S2+ tubes takes my EVVA protected cell fine, the other tube is so snug I’d be afraid of getting the cell stuck in it (both of the red S2+ lights have every sign of being real, not fake — it’s just that their inner diameter happens to be just on the edge for this one cell I had out.
Lots more variation than I expected, even within the Convoy red S2+ lights I have here.
Another case of “slightly loose” works but “slightly tight” doesn’t, I think
EDIT — and note, your particular combinations of parts may vary, that’s the point of collecting first hand experience.
Yezl Y3 extension tubes work on HD2010.
https://fundrazr.com/osturaband
No affiliation, just a fan.
The BLF-EEX6 does not completely lego with the EEX2 (wth?!!) :
*X2 tail fits the X6 body fine, but the X6 tail does not fit the X2 body
*X2 body fits the X6 head and the led lights up
*X6 body fits the X2 head but makes no electrical contact
So even within the same brand they are not capable to stick to one type of threading
link to djozz tests
> one type of threading
I’d guess it’s more a failure of two things — repeatability and accuracy — so their tolerances are so wide that Lego-ing doesn’t work reliably.
Even assuming they’re using lathes that allows them to specify exactly what thread that lathe produces — how many operators, on how many different lathes, on how many days, are going into this production?
Seriously, these have to be beginners. Once someone’s competent to make truly interchangeable parts in mass production — that operator is going to be working on something more important than cheap flashlights.
Thank goodness, since that might be a nuclear plant or aircraft.
We’re getting the “training wheels” stage of industrial learning.
Quoting from the A6 thread at Thu, 09/10/2015 – 15:22
See follow-on comments in that thread for more on tolerances and how you need really tight specs.
I posted a long quote on using micrometers that included:
There will be some variation — and the variations add up to this kind of problem when parts meet or don’t.
My new BLF A6 legoes with the UF-2100. The uf-2100 tailcap works on the A6 tube and head but I can't get the A6 head to light up on the uf-2100 tube/tailcap.
Aloha, Uli
Thorfire VG15 battery tube and switch fits Blf X6 Se
from a search, happened to notice a couple of mentions in other threads:
Nitecore P12 body using Nitecore EA11 head
Mentioned by antenne, elsewhere:
roche f-12 has a shelf for 20mm triples
they used to say the olight i3 AAA head fit the streamlight micro stream .
olight black clips from illumination supplys garage sale fits the z8 stainless zoomie (junk) and the original Mr lite blf light yeAA
Xeno diffuser TWSE v1 with the flat top fits eagletac d25a ti lights(i assume that all D25a's are the same size ) and is an amazingly nice diffuser.
υμεις εστε το φως του κοσμου ου δυναται πολις κρυβηναι επανω ορους κειμενη
Dc-fix diffuser film >… http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208
I just saw a “read somewhere” note that the MtnElectronics spacers (2 different ones) for the S2 and S2+ may also fit some other lights.
Anyone know for sure?
The A6 BLF clip fits the original Convoy M1 very well. Will post a picture later.
The clip for the Roche F6 fits the Convoy S2+ really well (even better than on the F6) and it is super sturdy. However it is not a deep carry and I don’t know where these can be bought separately.
Mini-01 battery tube threads into a p60 reflector.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
The 18650 Thorfire C8 body and tailcap match well with the head of the 18350 Nitecore EC11.
.
.
.
Other C8’s that do NOT fit the EC11:
………….. Convoy 8 …………………………… Generic “CREE” C8
Rule 1-1 as it applies to life, take it as it comes.
Tailcaps: the tailcap of my red Convoy S2+ fits and works correctly on the battery tubes for both an Eagle Eye BLF-X6-SE and an Manker A6. (only checked one of each)
The tailcaps for both of those black lights are too tight — they start but won’t screw onto the red Convoy S2+ battery tube.
As noted above — the tolerance for variation is so large on these that a sample of one isn’t proof of any general claim about what fits what.
I’d guess somewhere there are three bins — heads, body tubes, and tailcaps — and whoever assembles the lights just keeps fishing until he finds a complete set and calls it good.
It’s the Goldilocks approach to flashlight construction. Some are too small, some are too large, some are just right.
That’s an oversimplification — threads have to be defined by several different numbers — spacing, depth, slope of the cut, maybe more. We don’t get that kind of precision.
(Or we get the seconds, if there are some that good)
———— Has anyone checked the threads for the retaining rings? I don’t know if those are done to any standard or not.
Could the metal switch of the red Convoy S2 take the high draw of the BLF A6 do you think?
BLF A6 pocket clip is a nice snug fit for Imalent DM21.
My Convoy red S2+ tailcap legoes with the Jaxman UV tube, and vice versa.
(that as noted above isn’t always the case, and your tailcaps may vary — but these could be twins as far as the threads and depth go.
— RustyShackleford
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/41726?page=1#comment-847991 (works if you view 300 comments per page)
Conformation here with the two lights I used.
S2+ tailcap fits on A6 body but not the other way around.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36748#comment-832868
hat tip to DARCANGEL in the F13 thread, 1/18/2015
And just before that, in the same thread, also said
hat tip to escereal
at: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/41481 — EAGLE EYE X6 XPL HI V21A
AAA Legos:
Maratac, Lumintop Tool, Thrunite, Prometheus Beta all swap
Maratac head on Beta Body (did not light, Maratac pill set too deep, ymmv), and Beta head on Maratac body (works!)
Thrunite head, Maratac body (works!)
Beta head, Thrunite body (works!)
Maratac head on Tool body, and vice versa (both swaps work!)
High CRI lights for sale
This ones a bit of a crazy one..
Takes 3 flashlights parts.
1x Ultrafire SK68, 1x Foursevens MLR2 and 1x Ultrafire C3 extension tube:
Take the switch from the Sk68, the extension tube from a C3 and stick in place of the ML2 tube.
You can now use AA and 14500 batteries with the MLR2 head!
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