You are correct. I unsurprisingly noticed no gain from the spring bypass using NCR18650B. I have some Sanyo NCR18650GA’s on the way so hopefully I may see a difference using those.
In hindsight I feel silly asking about the post mod now. it’s really straight forward lol.
The s2 tailcap and switch do look sharp on the a6 though I must say.
I have most of the anodizing brushed off just leaving some blue highlights in the knurling and around the switch.
looks sharp.
If you want to get the rest of the blue off, grab some Greased Lightning and soak it for a couple hours.
Ya will do. I went out today to grab some oven cleaner, got to Wallmart, spent $47, and came home without oven cleaner. D’oh.
So I put the wire brush on the dermal when I got home, just to give the oven cleaner a head start when I do eventually get it. I got a little carried away, and here we are.
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There is a Omten switch in the S2+ metal switch assembly?
I just got an answer from Simon (Convoy), I asked him about the maximum current on the S2+ metal switch, his answer is 3A (no voltage mentioned, but I think it’s meant in the flashlight context).
I have a blue S2+ host on it’s way, so I will see…
This is inside the metal switch in my blue s2+
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It looks like an omten 1288 or a clone. Omtens say “omten” on the top at one end. Would have to crash test it or pop it open to compare the guts.
I realized I could just move the switch over from the a6 and put it under the metal button in the S2 tailcap. So now I have the A6 switch inside the S2+ tailcap on the rear end of my A6.
Works perfectly.
Also I did some water testing of this hybrid tailcap. Without adding a gasket or doing any further modification, the tailcap with metal clicky and A6 switch appear to be waterproof on it’s own.
Granted I only filled my tube so didn’t get anywhere near the ipx-8 standard depth of 2 meters, but I did slosh it around and click it 40 or 50 times.
When I took everything apart I looked and there was no water ingress, so then I did the same thing but with batteries installed. Everything turned out fine.
When I took it apart after the second test I realized there is space to double up on o-rings on both ends
Is the coupon code for the unanodized version still kicking around? I think I may grab one of these in a cooled tint. This “3D” tint is pretty warm, like incandescent or warmer. I think they may have sent the wrong emitter in this light.
The sku says 3D but Idunno about that. This is the warmest light I’ve seen since my mini mag incandescent back in 1999, warmer even.
The 3D is warmer than my 5A
In some instances current up voltage down and vice versa. (A.C. transformers; multivoltage motors for example). But I can say that when dealing with 120v vs. 277v systems the allowabe wire ampacity does not change. 12 awg is still only allowed 20 (in general) amps at either voltage. What does change is the amount that equipment will pull. I.E. I can put twice as many fluorescent lights on a 277v 20a circuit as compared to a 120v 20a circuit. :)
Doubling the o-rings works on the bare model but not on the black anodized as the second o-ring prevents the tail cap from screwing completely on.
Could you set picture size to 100% please? Huge pictures cause the text to shrink. 100% keeps pic widths the same as the text box. Thanks.
Sorry about that. I thought my phone was just being stupid. I’ll see what I can fix.
Edit: I don’t know how to go back and fix it.
I got already a lot of troubles with this light. Firstly the clip was totally deformed and the ring in the tailcap was not fixable. From the support I got a replacement but it took a lot of time.
Since about 2 weeks ago the moonlight mode does not work any more and the support from Banggood (Neils assistant) just don’t want to help me but wants me to order a new driver. WTF?
Firstly I don’t want do solder around on the light just because some parts are shitty and secondly I dont want so spend any more money on a product that was produced faulty. Where is the good support that everybody is speaking of?
Use the text editor. Delete the image file(basically everything but the words you typed)and reinsert it with the sunset icon. In that drop down box set size to 100%.
The SANYO B's are the same as Panasonic B's - you should not see any difference. If you want high performance, you really need to be using high performance cells, like the Samsung 30Q, LG HG2, LG HE2/HE4 or higher capacity 10A cells like the SANYO GA or LG MJ1.
That post was supposed to say 18650GA. I have some Sanyo 18650GAs on the way that I’m hoping to see some better results with. I’ll go back and correct it the post avoid any further confusion.
My step down from turbo is 55 sec., I’ve read it was timed not thermal step down. My main reason for mentioning this is my A6 doesn’t seem to go into “TURBO” level. I mean it steps up to the highest setting (level 7 and level 4) in each mode but it also only pull 3.2amps on the highest level (I mentioned all this on another thread) with an NCR18650GA which pulls 4.75 amps on 2 other DD lights I have. I have taken this light completely apart and cleaned and polished some contacts and it has made no difference. I was going to bypass the springs with some braided wire, but I don’t think that’s the problem since almost everyone else is pulling over 4 amps tail current without bypassing. Do you think touching up the solders on the components might help?
The A6 should pull well up into the 4A range with any cell capable of producing it. With top cells it will do 5A. With spring bypasses and top cells, I’ve seen results over 6A. Literally. A friend recently sent me 2 A6’s to do spring bypasses on and after doing so, each one pulled 6.18A at the tail.
You know, that might be it, since there’s another forum member (not sure if here or cpf) with the same readings. In that case; is there a fix?
Hi everyone! 
I’m having an issue. The driver works normally, until I use the high mode. If I use the highest setting, afterwards the moonlight mode is VERY dim. So dim that it flickers and the pattern in the emitter is easy to see, AND the next two medium modes are exactly the same brightness. In the bike mode, all that you can see is the flashing, not the continuous light.
Randomly the modes go back to normal with the proper moonlight mode and distinguishable medium modes. But once I use high for a bit, the problem starts all over again.
Has this happened to anyone? I have the driver in a BLF-X6 with the XM-L2 on copper that the X6 had.