BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

It looks like an omten 1288 or a clone. Omtens say “omten” on the top at one end. Would have to crash test it or pop it open to compare the guts.

I realized I could just move the switch over from the a6 and put it under the metal button in the S2 tailcap. So now I have the A6 switch inside the S2+ tailcap on the rear end of my A6.
Works perfectly.

Also I did some water testing of this hybrid tailcap. Without adding a gasket or doing any further modification, the tailcap with metal clicky and A6 switch appear to be waterproof on it’s own.
Granted I only filled my tube so didn’t get anywhere near the ipx-8 standard depth of 2 meters, but I did slosh it around and click it 40 or 50 times.
When I took everything apart I looked and there was no water ingress, so then I did the same thing but with batteries installed. Everything turned out fine.

When I took it apart after the second test I realized there is space to double up on o-rings on both ends

Is the coupon code for the unanodized version still kicking around? I think I may grab one of these in a cooled tint. This “3D” tint is pretty warm, like incandescent or warmer. I think they may have sent the wrong emitter in this light.
The sku says 3D but Idunno about that. This is the warmest light I’ve seen since my mini mag incandescent back in 1999, warmer even.

The 3D is warmer than my 5A

In some instances current up voltage down and vice versa. (A.C. transformers; multivoltage motors for example). But I can say that when dealing with 120v vs. 277v systems the allowabe wire ampacity does not change. 12 awg is still only allowed 20 (in general) amps at either voltage. What does change is the amount that equipment will pull. I.E. I can put twice as many fluorescent lights on a 277v 20a circuit as compared to a 120v 20a circuit. :)

Doubling the o-rings works on the bare model but not on the black anodized as the second o-ring prevents the tail cap from screwing completely on.

Could you set picture size to 100% please? Huge pictures cause the text to shrink. 100% keeps pic widths the same as the text box. Thanks.

Sorry about that. I thought my phone was just being stupid. I’ll see what I can fix.

Edit: I don’t know how to go back and fix it.

I got already a lot of troubles with this light. Firstly the clip was totally deformed and the ring in the tailcap was not fixable. From the support I got a replacement but it took a lot of time.
Since about 2 weeks ago the moonlight mode does not work any more and the support from Banggood (Neils assistant) just don’t want to help me but wants me to order a new driver. WTF?
Firstly I don’t want do solder around on the light just because some parts are shitty and secondly I dont want so spend any more money on a product that was produced faulty. Where is the good support that everybody is speaking of?

Use the text editor. Delete the image file(basically everything but the words you typed)and reinsert it with the sunset icon. In that drop down box set size to 100%.

The SANYO B's are the same as Panasonic B's - you should not see any difference. If you want high performance, you really need to be using high performance cells, like the Samsung 30Q, LG HG2, LG HE2/HE4 or higher capacity 10A cells like the SANYO GA or LG MJ1.

That post was supposed to say 18650GA. I have some Sanyo 18650GAs on the way that I’m hoping to see some better results with. I’ll go back and correct it the post avoid any further confusion.

My step down from turbo is 55 sec., I’ve read it was timed not thermal step down. My main reason for mentioning this is my A6 doesn’t seem to go into “TURBO” level. I mean it steps up to the highest setting (level 7 and level 4) in each mode but it also only pull 3.2amps on the highest level (I mentioned all this on another thread) with an NCR18650GA which pulls 4.75 amps on 2 other DD lights I have. I have taken this light completely apart and cleaned and polished some contacts and it has made no difference. I was going to bypass the springs with some braided wire, but I don’t think that’s the problem since almost everyone else is pulling over 4 amps tail current without bypassing. Do you think touching up the solders on the components might help?

The A6 should pull well up into the 4A range with any cell capable of producing it. With top cells it will do 5A. With spring bypasses and top cells, I’ve seen results over 6A. Literally. A friend recently sent me 2 A6’s to do spring bypasses on and after doing so, each one pulled 6.18A at the tail.

@cccpull, i wonder if there are some V1s still floating around.

You know, that might be it, since there’s another forum member (not sure if here or cpf) with the same readings. In that case; is there a fix?

Hi everyone! :slight_smile: I’m having an issue. The driver works normally, until I use the high mode. If I use the highest setting, afterwards the moonlight mode is VERY dim. So dim that it flickers and the pattern in the emitter is easy to see, AND the next two medium modes are exactly the same brightness. In the bike mode, all that you can see is the flashing, not the continuous light.
Randomly the modes go back to normal with the proper moonlight mode and distinguishable medium modes. But once I use high for a bit, the problem starts all over again.
Has this happened to anyone? I have the driver in a BLF-X6 with the XM-L2 on copper that the X6 had.

That is a little weird. But it’s your 2nd post here; is it fair to guess that you came in, leaped at the light, but maybe didn’t read all the comments about it?

They started off hearing from people with a lot of experience taking these things apart and improving them.

Over time, word got out that there was this super flashlight, and a lot of people jumped in.

People with very different experience, or none, with this kind of light.

Have you made clear you don’t know how to install a replacement driver?

Have you asked if they will give you a free temperature-controlled soldering station to install that?

No, don’t do that. Seriously, the biggest mistake you can make is generating a LOT of email and posts while trying to get their support to respond.

Dealing with China support folks takes at least as much practice to get right, as soldering drivers. You need to know how to do both things, for this kind of light.

Yesterday I received my exchange long(er) body tube from Banggood (Thanks!), it was a long wait, but it actually helped - less force needed to make contact and even wall thickness.
But for a second run tube I’m a little astonished, there was a lot of burring of the aluminum inside one end, actually at first it was difficult to insert a cell before I removed the burr.

Hi,
you’re right that I have not posted much here, but I am quite active in the sister forum (TLF) an read quite a lot here.
The flashlight is great but as was already mentioned quite a lot the quality differs a lot between each light.
I told them and I think after about 3 or 4 emails the agreed to send the driver, when I mentioned that I have read the whole thread and tried everything that was written here. I even went to a friend with much more advanced soldering skills than mine who had a look on the driver and resoldered the 7135, but with no effect.
Currently I hope that I will get the replacement head quite soon, because I really miss the moonlight and battery level function.

That sounds like the 7135 chip is flaking out sometimes. It may be fixable by re-melting the solder joints on that chip. It’s the one with three pins on one side and one big pin on the other side. It only takes a quick touch to melt, and you should melt the two outer pins plus the big one on the other side.

I’m guessing, if you’ve moved the driver, that you can solder. :slight_smile:

I’ll definitely try that. Thanks for the help ToyKeeper! :bigsmile:

UPDATE: Issue fixed! I’m so happy!