The switch I looked at says omten and came off a switch pcb with matching holes. I figured that your holes were for your switch. I have some small push button switches with the same pins.
Interesting. I haven’t seen one of those switches.
Some components are available both with and without locater pins. They could both be the same switch just different variations.
Okay, I’m running into some issues. This is the V3 20mm board.
I assembled it like the previous versions, but the LED’s won’t light. I did some checking with the multimeter, and things do appear to be getting power like they should.
The spring wire is attached to that central via.
I did cut off the switch, and found a possible short from the NEG side to that POS via trace. I shortened the leg of the next switch, but the results are the same: no joy.
Here are both sides, see anything obviously wrong?
You could unsolder the leds to see if there isn't one solder-bridged underneath (it happens to me too often).
That switch tab should not be touching the little center via.
Sorry for the short response, I’m at work.
I think that’s the short he alluded to but yeah, that one for starters. Have you checked the polarity of the LEDs and verified their operation with a low cell? A pair of half drained alky’s or nimh’s would be better.
Hey guys! :)
i was just modding a prototype tail cap Manker sent me for the new X6/X5 lights. They came with two 2ohm resistors, one for each LED (red). Removing one of the resistors made it better (less bright) but I still found it to be too bright so I changed it to a single 3.9ohm resistor and it wouldn't even light up at all. I swapped in a single 2.5ohm resistor and it is about perfect.
i love the idea of a pot being built in but wanted you to know that anything over 3-4 ohms is pointless. The workable range is only about as high as 3ohms in my findings so using anything too wide in range will be nearly impossible to dial in to even get it to light if you use a 50k or higher like I read some of you wanting to do. Try to use a pot with as low a range as possible.
If anyone has had a different experience than I did I'd love to hear about it. :)
Does the X6 /X5 prototype driver have a bleeder and what resistance is it?
it does but I’m not positive on the resistance. I believe it is 560. I’m checking with Selene and krono for a definitive answer.
Are you sure it were only 2-3ohm??? Or kohm?
Ohms. THe original was 30B.
No offence, but I’m willing to bet money it was kOhms.
For a nice bedside glow I usually use 3.6-5.6kohm
Found this Alumisol soft plastic casting resin which might work to make translucent or tinted buttons. A hardener is also available if the stuff is too flexible.
30B = 2 kΩ (1%)
LOL! You are correct, sir. I read it wrong. Even still, I used a 3.9k resistor (392) and mine wouldn’t light at all. Still holds that a 50k pot is far too much, agreed?
That may be do to the SMD Leds they sourced, but more likely to the color used. They are blue, right? I usually use something with a lower Vf. It’s all relative.
I totally agree on the pot. I saw a 20k, so I was going to go for that unless I could find a 10k or 15k.
These particular ones are red. That would probably explain it. ;)
They look great on the copper and stainless versions. :)
interesting. Did you modify it? or did they send different colored samples to everyone?
I think they look darned good on just about everything, even more unique when you mix colors like Djozz did earlier in the thread.
I hope the stock the buttons afterwords.