DC-Fix Diffusion Film Sale

Boaz · November 4, 2015, 7:05am

I never used dc fix on a jacob a60 …everything i’ve had prior to dc fix was non stick /no adhesive so the diffuser film on the jacob A-60 lasted about 3 minutes …I did it just to see if it was possible to make a laser tight beam floody other lights i’ve tried diffuser film on/or still have film on them are >>2 D maglite clone ultrafire mcu-c88 ,blf x6 eagle eye,tank 566,convoy s2 ,s2+,streamlight tasklight2L, 12-5mm uv light modded with a p-60 drop-in no lens so i used diffuser film to protect the reflector / emitter of the drop in . de-domed Supfire s5, O-pen clone ,again no lens so the diffuser film protects the emitter .2nd tank 566 nichia 219a, blf aay-4e xpg-2, tank 701ssc,. hugsby xp-2 , Sunwayman V20cy, BLF A6, nitefighter L1A headlamp … Some of these lights had beams so poor spreading butter on the lens would be an improvement …I’ve got some antique mods and some lantern mods that will need serious diffusin since the reflectors are made for incan light.

Splott-Light · November 4, 2015, 3:49pm

Hi Boaz,

Replaced old film on an SD-10 NW and got the same percentage increase, 75%, so it is very consistent in its improvement.

Love this stuff.

Very good also at mixing the colour variations in a beam, but probably only really visible on a White Wall!

Thanks once again for getting this in Bulk for us.

Splott-Light

devman · November 14, 2015, 7:27am

PayPal sent, looking forward to seeing what it’s like.

Anyone know if it blocks UV?

zipelgas · November 20, 2015, 4:26pm

Some before and after pictures…

Great product!

Ronin42 · November 21, 2015, 3:41am

Yup +1 Why Xtart tried to make a cr123 thrower headlight is beyond me but for $20 its was worth it to swap the emitter and grind down the red, now double flood

Tom_E · November 25, 2015, 4:17am

Wish I had pics, but just added it on my cheapo modded out MXDL 3W 16340 twisty light, bought from TMART a while back. It's this light:

Love the power I get out of a XM-L2 T6 4C with my custom FET driver, but the beam was awful, with an ugly hot spot, even with a UCLp lens. Now with the DC-Fix, it's smooth all over, much more consistent tint, and can easily light up a whole room.

Splott-Light · March 21, 2016, 9:54pm

Hi. Boaz,

Is this still available, as looking for a 2nd order?

Splott-Light

Mr.Big · March 29, 2016, 3:28am

Hey Boaz do you have any more of this film left? I’d like to pick up a half dozen or so.

Boaz · June 22, 2016, 7:36am

Yes I still have Dc-fix available . I also have about a dozen 3”x5” sheets of heavier thickness diffusion material as well.

Splott , I’ll send you a PM

*edit 6/20/16

Mr.Big · March 31, 2016, 2:26am

Got my diffusing film today, works wonders on a thrunite Ti Hi and some lumintop tools that have been in my edc rotation.

Splott-Light · April 2, 2016, 2:06am

Hi Boaz,

P.M. and PP sent, Many Thanks.

So what is this thicker diffusion material?

Cheers,
Splott-Light

No_Agenda · July 2, 2016, 4:12am

Hi Boaz,

Do you still have any diffusion film available?

Thanks,

Boaz · August 23, 2016, 9:55pm

Sure …Ask me before i go on vacation … :innocent:

Yes I still have a bunch if anyone is interested …

PM sent

EasyB · August 31, 2016, 10:01pm

I am interested in this to smooth out the hotspot and reduce the donut hole on my dedomed XHP70 in supfire L6 (smooth C8 sized reflector). But I want to keep as much hotspot intensity as possible. I have seen tests where the overall light transmission is tested, but I haven’t seen any measurements of the hotspot intensity before and after. Does anyone have this information?

I have tried the “magic” scotch tape and it makes a nice beam, loses about 10% of the output, but it reduces the hotspot intensity by almost 60. Basically I am looking for something to diffuse just enough to get rid of most of the donut hole, but keep ~80 of the hotspot intensity.

jacktheclipper · August 31, 2016, 11:40pm

@ EasyB

A light sputtering on the reflector would probably work better than DC-Fix .

The DC-Fix would virtually eliminate the hotspot .

DavidEF · September 1, 2016, 5:28pm

Not only that, but you may be missing the fact that the hot spot and the donut hole are practically the same thing. The only way to get rid of the donut hole is to diffuse the hot spot. The intense brightness of the hotter parts of the beam must be spread out in order to cover the shadow area, which you refer to as the donut hole.

EasyB · September 1, 2016, 5:37pm

I realize the intensity must go down in order to even out the beam, but it is possible to even the beam to an acceptable level and not reduce the intensity to 30 or 40. For example, I am experimenting with SMO and OP reflectors for a XHP50, and the OP reflector virtually eliminated the donut hole and only reduced the intensity to ~82 of that of the SMO reflector.

Boaz · September 2, 2016, 5:25pm

for what it costs I’d say try it.you have nothiong to lose
I have experimented with dots of dc-fix in the center of the lens on tank 566 lights that had really bad ringy issues.It cleared up lots of issues without killing throw but i have no hard data for you .

jacktheclipper · September 2, 2016, 6:37pm

EasyB:

DavidEF:

jacktheclipper:

@ EasyB

A light sputtering on the reflector would probably work better than DC-Fix .

The DC-Fix would virtually eliminate the hotspot .

Not only that, but you may be missing the fact that the hot spot and the donut hole are practically the same thing. The only way to get rid of the donut hole is to diffuse the hot spot. The intense brightness of the hotter parts of the beam must be spread out in order to cover the shadow area, which you refer to as the donut hole.

I realize the intensity must go down in order to even out the beam, but it is possible to even the beam to an acceptable level and not reduce the intensity to 30 or 40. For example, I am experimenting with SMO and OP reflectors for a XHP50, and the OP reflector virtually eliminated the donut hole and only reduced the intensity to ~82 of that of the SMO reflector.

Hence my suggestion of a light spray of poly on the reflector . It gives a light OP finish , less than a stock OP reflector .
It is irreversible , however .

The more you actually use your flashlights , the less important pure output becomes and the more important tint and beam profile become .

EasyB · September 2, 2016, 6:45pm

jacktheclipper:

EasyB:

DavidEF:

jacktheclipper:

@ EasyB

A light sputtering on the reflector would probably work better than DC-Fix .

The DC-Fix would virtually eliminate the hotspot .

Not only that, but you may be missing the fact that the hot spot and the donut hole are practically the same thing. The only way to get rid of the donut hole is to diffuse the hot spot. The intense brightness of the hotter parts of the beam must be spread out in order to cover the shadow area, which you refer to as the donut hole.

I realize the intensity must go down in order to even out the beam, but it is possible to even the beam to an acceptable level and not reduce the intensity to 30 or 40. For example, I am experimenting with SMO and OP reflectors for a XHP50, and the OP reflector virtually eliminated the donut hole and only reduced the intensity to ~82 of that of the SMO reflector.

Hence my suggestion of a light spray of poly on the reflector . It gives a light OP finish , less than a stock OP reflector .
It is irreversible , however .

The more you actually use your flashlights , the less important pure output becomes and the more important tint and beam profile become .

Yes, thank you. I tried the recommended Krylon clear acrylic gloss spray on the lens and it helped. Unfortunately I sort of killed the emitter of the light in question, but I think this method will allow me to get the right amount of diffusion for future builds.