Giggle You’re right. Steam is scary. But someone should totally build a water cooled light for the next build competition complete with a popoff valve!
Edit: Sorry. Way too easy to go astray at this place! Lol….
Ooh - That was post #300 for me!
I’ve been astray for a long time. 
That makes sense in the way of getting the heat out and into your hand but can someone explain the difference between metals conducting vs. shedding heat? I know that’s why the x6v2 was not left completely stainless.
Bright, shiny metal is smoother on a microscopic level than anodized aluminum which is porous and rough giving it more surface area for heat exchange to air molecules. A vivid example differences in conductivity would be to hold a foot of bare awg 12 solid Cu in one hand and a foot of clothes hanger wire in the other and put the tips of each into a flame. It takes a lot longer for the heat to reach your hand moving up the steel wire so it would take longer for the heat to move through the steel of the SS part than the added Cu.
Don’t buy kitchen ware with copper handles.
Convection (transfer of heat as vibration from surface to fluid molecules that then move away, carrying the heat away, because of density change with temperature change);
Conduction (transfer as vibration traveling through the molecules of the material);
Radiation (emission of photons)
Complication: conduction through the metal to your hand, and through your skin to the capillaries and the blood, carrying it away ….
Emissivity of materials
http://www.thermoworks.com/emissivity_table.html
Why it’s quantum
http://physics.weber.edu/carroll/honors/failures.htm
At these temperatures I doubt very much radiation is a primary cooling factor (despite the power 4 temperature dependence).
There’s your answer! A beach wedding dress will cool the emitter and solve all our problems!
Really like this driver with the ui. I now see its available to buy separate from banggood. Would this be a good candidate for a triple xpg or xpl build? Is this driver limited to 6 amps or could I see higher output on a triple build. Any other 17mm driver recommendations for max output.
Hint: the fact that BG says it’s the same driver is not evidence that it is, in fact, the same driver with the same quality components or care in building it.
Nor is there a reason to assume you’ll get the same thing tomorrow as you’d get if you bought it today. They don’t usually know what they’re selling you.
Go to MtnElectronics if you want something well made that accomplishes the same thing — ask the people who designed the product you want to buy who to trust.
Yes it would work well. No not limited to 6 amps. I saw 10+ in a triple.
Thanks for the advice hank and tristanxoxo. Sounds like you had a few bad experience with bg hank. I have been lucky so far. Checked Mtn out, most of there drivers are out of stock. There on hoilday for a few more days as well. Looks like I’ll have to wait. 
Not so much personally with this specific item, but I’ve been warned off about cheapening driver components over time.
Look up “poorly made in China” for the pattern, which is quite general and widely confirmed.
I do know the more general problem of rarely getting the same thing twice, and
I have found the support folks often don’t know what they’re selling.
In theory, the BLF A6 driver should be able to handle the power from a triple pretty easily. In practice, your mileage may vary.
If you want a top-quality one, wait until MtnElectronics gets back from holiday and order stuff there.
Trying to set mode memory.
Does the light has to be ON or OFF before I do the 15+ taps to enter configure ?
After the 15 taps, what would I see ? the light start the 2 blink cycles ?
According to the diagram, each mode choice is indicated by 2 blinks. To choose mode Lock, I should wait for “blink blink” then “blink” and do a full press before the 2nd blink ?
Sorry for being dense, but I’m not getting anywhere after over an hour
Flashlight on, 15 taps then it turns off followed by the two blinks. Gotta tap the switch between the two blinks two change the mode. Thats how it works for me anyway. Good luck……….
Thanks…finally got it !!
I had the light off, and ended up accidentally turning it on…enter turbo…flashing, while tapping it, numerous times. My cat scampered away from my lap after a few minutes of self blinding. LOL
I think the instructions should be amended :-
- turn ON light
- WITHOUT LOOKING AT IT, keep tapping for 15+ times while it goes through it’s cycles, until 2 weak blinks appear.
Fun night, I should have gone to bed, but the lure of venturing out into the dark to play was too overwhelming to resist.
Now I got to go find my cat
Yesterday I got my replacement head. The moonlight works perfect also do the other modes. Hopefully this one lasts longer 
Ok, I love your forum!
Please forgive me for my ignorance, but I’ve spent some time looking for my problem and couldn’t find anything. I just received my BLF A6 today. I put my nitecore 3400mah 18650 battery in and turned it on. WOW, what a beam. However, this is where things went south. While still on, I proceeded to screw off the top lens portion. (Not sure what I was trying to accomplish) Anyway, it came off and that’s when I saw a very little stream off thick smoke come from the LED and then it went out. And now it won’t come back on. Does anyone know what I did? The reflector portion didn’t come off as cleanly as it could have, and now that I think about it, I guess I could have shorted something on that little board… any ideas? Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you.
By taking the bezel off, you put pressure on the silicone dome and broke a bond wire. The emitter is toast.
Purchase a new emitter on a 16mm Noctigon and replace that one. Most basic of soldering skills, remove a wire, re-solder it on the new star. DON’T touch the dome with the iron!
As far as group changes go, it is said to half press 16 times OR UNTIL THE LIGHT STOPS RESPONDING, then the first 2 blinks will set group and the second 2 blinks will set memory. Should be pretty obvious, the light has to be on to respond.
So for clarity, yes, turn the light on, then rapidly half press 16 times (the light will cycle through the levels repeatedly during this process) When the light quits producing light (stops responding) watch for the set of 2 blinks and click off during this time to set group mode, or wait for a second set of 2 blinks to set memory mode by clicking off within the 2 blink time frame.
I am very very forgetful, but this UI sticks in my mind easily for some reason. I’ve found it easy and pleasurable to use since it was first introduced to me months and months ago.