[Review] OLIGHT S1 Baton Ti (XM-L2 NW, 1x CR123A / RCR / 16340)


OLIGHT S1 Baton Ti Bead Blasted
LED: XM-L2 NW
Battery: 1x CR123A / RCR - 16340
Modes: 4 (Moonlight, Low, Med, High)
Switch: Digital, head
Date: November 2015
Links:
Banggood · RdL · ForoLinternas

INTRODUCTION:
As every year, we are on the threshold of the Christmas period and manufacturers strive to launch special versions, special flashlights with original or “luxury” finish that seek to be the center of attention when looking for a gift for a friend or family, or a gift to ourselves. In this sense, Olight specializes in these so feared by our wallet practices, and this year seems they have pulled the boat out as far as special versions are concerned. Among the large selection, Olight just launched a few weeks ago a version of its already famous titanium Baton S1, a small flashlight small EDC ideal for everyday use proportions.

As was the case with the S10 Baton some years ago, Olight offers this special titanium version in two different finishes: Polished & Bead Blasted. This time I decided to add to my collection a non-shinny flashlight, and I opted for the second, with a “sandblasted” finish, which unlike the polished version, is not shinny because the metal has been treated by abrasive blast, which acts like sandpaper by pressure, and completely kills the brightness of polished metal, showing instead a nice uniform matte tone.


The flashlight comes in an elegant telescopic box, in addition to the flashlight we find a small cardboard box containing three accessories: one CR123A battery, a wrist strap and a small diffuser cone. The box also contains a user manual in two languages (English and Chinese). Doesn’t include spare o-rings.

EXTERIOR FINISH:
External machining of S1 Baton Ti is identical to anodized aluminum base version, but with the obvious difference in the material used.
The sandblasted titanium has a porous touch, and although it is more likely to be marked if struck or rubs, completely avoids the flashlight full of fingerprints left after being used.

It is a compact flashlight, with reduced dimensions and weight, which make it an excellent candidate for an everyday carry flashlight as it lives comfortably in any pockets.


Instead of blue accents as in the base version has this S1 Ti version has the bezel and the frame surrounding the switch in a copper-gold color.

The optics consists of a TIR type lens very curious, since instead of having a smooth outer surface has a slight relief that follows the shape of the collimator.

The emitter is completely hidden behind the central part of the lens, which appears to have a dull finish and prevents a direct view of the central zone.

The switch is coated with a silicone button, and protrudes slightly on the profile of the flashlight, but his touch is rather hard.
The small button on the side is located in one of the planes of a zone exagonada flashlight body, which acts as an anti-roll mechanism.

We have a steel pocket clip attached in the neck, which has a good tension.
The engravings found in the body of the flashlight are clearly defined, but are quite discrete thanks to the low contrast.

The flashlight body is dominated by a very nice rectangular knurling, with three flat areas, all of which laser engravings, logo, model and an indication on the polarity for the battery, the latter being hidden by the pocket clip default position.

The threads, as it cannot be otherwise in a flashlight titanium have that characteristic gritty feel produced by this metal. The screw threads are square cut and come lightly greased from factory, as well as the o-ring.

Inside the tube we spot the contact, in this case for the negative battery terminal. Yes, this flashlight uses the battery reversed to what traditionally we are used to see.
The contact on the bottom of the tube is done by a small spring, surrounded by a sort of bed foam preventing the battery from moving if I had some slack. Speaking of slack, the space for the battery is not overly generous, and some protected batteries do not allow completely close the thread of the tailcap, although unlike as with anodized aluminum base version, this version works without tailcap completely closed because the uncoated titanium threads are conductive.

The tailcap of the flashlight has another spring inside, in this case to contact the battery positive terminal, and hold by the spring there is a powerful magnet that allows the light to stick stable to ferrous surfaces. An interesting point is that by removing the magnet we will get some extra slack in the battery housing, thanks to the tailcap spring torsion, and will allow us to use somewhat longer batteries.

Outwardly the tailcap has knurling small strip that matches the one found in the body. At its edge there is a small hole allowing us to attach the strap wristband or any hitch. The base of the plug is completely flat, so we can place the flashlight in tailstand, which added to the small diffuser included with flashlight offers excellent functionality. The diffuser cone has an interesting peculiarity is that is made of luminescent material, so that after the cone off the torch will maintain a slight glow that can be very helpful to locate it out in complete darkness.

Finally, the tailcap has an engraving consisting of Ti acronyms, and a serial number that identifies our unity. Taking advantage of my recent acquisition of a ring flash for my camera “low cost” equipment, I’ll leave you with some interesting macro photos of this special flashlight.



USER INTERFACE:
This special version of the Olight S1 Baton has a user interface like the one found in anodized aluminum base version. It has 4 different intensities, several shortcuts, memory mode, and even a timer … all controlled by a single electronic switch located on the head of the flashlight.

  • On and off: To turn the light on we just need to make a simple click on the digital switch. Another simple click turns it off.
  • Changing modes: Keeping pressed the flashlight switch, alternate modes in ascending order: Low-Med-High-Low-Med-High … When we are in the desired mode, release the switch and intensity is fixed.
  • Memory: S1 Baton has mode memory, so when you turn off the last mode used will be memorized, and the flashlight will access this directly on your next activation.
  • Moonlight Mode: This Olight has a sub-lumen mode, which is separate from the three main modes, and to which we will access through a long press for more than a second. This mode is not memory stored, so you can only access it through this operation.
  • Direct access to High: We have an interesting shortcut to turn on the flashlight in his maximum performance mode: you simply have to double click on the switch with the flashlight off.
  • Strobe Mode: Strobe mode is hidden, and is accessed by a quick triple click press with the flashlight off. Any operation, whether a mode change or anything will stop the strobe. The frequency of the strobe is not extremely high, 10 Hz, so it may be practical as marker or signalize.
  • Timer: Apparently Baton S1 has two timers: one for the stepdown it haves in High mode, and a second that allows an interesting function: A flashlight off scheduled to be held after 3 or 9 minutes. To activate the timer just do a double click with the flashlight on, at which the flashlight (after going off for a moment) will emit a double blink confirmation, which indicates that we have successfully set off at 3 minutes timed shutdown. If we want the shutdown at 9 minutes, just we have to repeat the double click, and the flashlight will confirm that it’s correctly programmed by a triple blink.
  • Blockout: Unfortunately, Olight S1 Baton in its titanium version cannot be blocked, as threads, unlike as in anodized aluminum base version, are completely electrical conductive by the absence of any insulating coating, so the torch works even with tailcap not fully tighten.
  • Standby current: Being a flashlight without mechanical switch, the S1 Baton is virtually always on, even when not emit light. In off state, the circuit requires a small current to keep the system latency, which is always “listening” for any sign coming from the digital switch. This current, after my own measurements, it is one of the lowest I’ve seen, only 1.2uA (with a 4.2V RCR). This means that a forgotten S1 with the battery installed only consume about 10mAh a year, so you could say it is a completely worthless consumption, since the battery would degrade by nature before the current standby this flashlight to consume 10% of their rated capacity.


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We have an excellent correlation between the numbers specified by the manufacturer and measured in the integrating sphere, except the High mode with a CR123A, which remains some below. The intensity distribution is quite balanced, with a sub-lumen mode really useful for interior. An interesting point: Instead of 500LM for the High mode, this titanium version is spec’ed at 480LM, but presumably that little loss of maximum output is the result of using a neutral tint LED emitter, which usually always offer slightly less performance than their versions of cold tint.

PERFORMANCE:
Although in many cases performance in these special flashlights is something that happens to be on the less exciting side, especially due the handicap in heat transfer titanium has against aluminum, it seems that Olight has decided to equip this little flashlight with performance up to the basic aluminum version.

We have a really high initial output which 90 seconds later starts a timed sequence of stepdown to stabilize its output around 250LM, really keeping them stable for as long as the battery is capable of delivering sufficient current and voltage circuit demand. In the graph we can see how the battery RCR has a dry cut, produced by the NL166 battery protection. For the AW IMR battery we see that once it loses regulation it does a big drop a pair of minutes ahead of shutting down. In the case of the primary battery, the flashlight does have a kind of mixed regulation with a regulated flat output stage and an output unregulated getting an extended runtime.

To check more accurately how the stepdown is performed in this flashlight, here’s a zoomed chart detail of the first 200 seconds. We can see it on the graph as the stepdown, rather than a dry downturn, gradually runs over 60 seconds, so it will be difficult to see at a glance.

Finally, we will compare the performance of the S1 Baton Ti compared to that of other popular flashlights from the same segment.

Impressively this small Olight get a really good result, surpassing efficiency of all flashlighs in this chart. Click here for a higher resolution chart.

BEAM PROFILE:
The profile obtained with the TIR lens is really good for everyday use, with a large size hotspot well defined, surrounded by a spill that gently degrades into a truly open angle, so you do not find a defined limit in the illuminated area, providing a very pleasant radial gradient.


One of the interesting points of this titanium special version is that it features a neutral white Cree emitter, unlike the aluminum base using a cold white emitter.



In addition, using a TIR lens the flashlight is able to obtain excellent color uniformity, with no visible traces of various shades, as often happens with Cree emitters installed behind parabolic reflectors.

PERSONAL CONCLUSION:
A titanium special version of a small flashlight is always a great attraction for those who, like me, like to have in our hands these small special flashlights, retaining the functionality of their basic versions, but enriching the experience with unusual finishes. Olight has managed to lure me with its recent load of “special” products, like the two titanium S1 (polished and sandblasted), the imminent copper S1 (raw and PVD coated) or the expected soon i3S CU. Although I must admit that I initially found the basic version unattractive, having had this in my hands, especially after having tested the performance of this small flashlight, I’ve been pleasantly surprised.



JETBeam TCR10 · Sunwayman V10R Ti · Sunwayman M11R Ti-Dream · EagleTac D25C Ti · Olight S1 Baton Ti

Negatives: The first negative point that I find in this flashlight is the absence of a blockout function. Although the standby current consumption is not a problem at all, actual blockout requires us to remove the battery if you want to avoid any type of accidental activation. The second and final negative point goes to something that, while not a real problem itself, it is difficult to understand: The abnormal orientation of the battery. We are more than accustomed to our flashlights always work with the positive pole of the battery in the driver, and negative in the tailcap. In this flashlight battery must be reversed, and I assure you that although I knew this detail prior to purchase this flashlight, I have found myself many times, just by pure inertia, installing the battery incorrectly. Fortunately, electronic polarity protection works perfectly and the circuit does not suffer any damage, but I think it is important to maintain a certain consistency in the processes user must follow with products from the same manufacturer.

Positives: The mechanical finish of the flashlight is surprisingly outstanding. All details are made with care and attention, and general mechanical finishes are excellent. The combination of the golden color accents like the bezel and frame give an original touch to the flashlight, and although I would personally have preferred them to be in the same tone as the rest of the flashlight, I admit now it having its charm. The user interface is very comprehensive and yet easy to use, with shortcuts to the most and least powerful modes, with friendly access to principal modes, and with hidden strobe as it should be in flashlights of this category. The timer function beyond being somewhat anecdotal, can be useful if you want to light a room for a limited time, ensuring that we will not forget the flashlight on or can also be used to dispense the limited capacity of RCR / 16340 batteries in moments we require the maximum possible output. The almost nonexistent standby current signals a good job by the designers and engineers of this flashlight circuit. The NW tint is really good. Having included a small diffuser cone is a success. The Olight S1 Baton Ti is an excellent flashlight which, besides fascinating and exclusive, has excellent usability and an enviable performance.

Thanks for the detailed review. Very nice up-close pics!

Thanks for the detailed and excellent review.
Just to add that the old UI on the earlier batch of aluminium S1 has moonlight memory mode.
Olight reps at the other forum confirmed on the changed of UI

Thanks for pointing out… didn’t have a regular alu S1… yet…

The new batch of regular alu S1 and the Ti and Cu S1 should have the new UI without moonlight memory as told by the Olight reps, so your description on the UI is still valid

Thank you for reading. As for the close up pictures, I have finally decided to get myslef some help with a macro ring flash (of course, el cheapo). This provide a very helpful hand when focusing macro shots with cheap equpiment, which in my case basically consists in a EF 50mm f-1.8 fixed lenses and a set of macro extensor tubes. :smiley:

Where did you get the NW version? On BangGood and other sites, I only see the CW version.

Got mine from Banggood. The link is in the review header. :wink:

It says CW in that BangGood link though.

BG, as most of the famous giant sellers from CN, have wrong specs in their product page.
Olight website shows this:

Oh, very interesting that the Alu and Cu versions have CW while the Ti versions have NW.

Yes, I was hoping the CU version will come in NW too…
shame on you Olight!

great pictures!

Thanks!

Sony NEX-F3 (ISO400 / F5 / 1/5sec)

distance flashlight - canvas = 1m

S1 CW vs. S1 Ti NW

S1 aluminium CW

Si Ti NW

Damn, I wish they had options for NW on the Cu and Alu. I wonder if BG will restock the bead-blast Ti.

Good work M4D M4X! I'm not a fan of white wall shots because the tints always get messed up, mostly by the camera and also by the computer screen, but these tints look pretty real on screen.

I agree. If one pays more for the Cu version, it would be appropriate to offer the NW version, as in the Ti.

+1

I switched to AWB long ago because wallshots for tint comparison are not very useful.

I have been looking into a feauture / procedure to analize tint in my reviews, but haven’t yet decided a useful way to implement it to my standard testings.

If anyone knows a trustable method to analize tints, I’ll gladly consider it.

Thanks!

The upcoming Brass version will have the same price as the Cu version, but they will only be sold exclusively by GoingGear, will also come in NW version