I’ll get confirmation on that xml2 Bin… But I just heard back from Brinyte that both red and green modules use xp-e emitters. Not xp-e2. My version from Brinyte is a cool white.
Ok, thanks mhanlen. If its U4 binned around 6500K I might switch my order to white… If possible, can you also find out the tint? Sorry for the hassle. I’ll await your feedback.
I’ll try to get the color temp, but no promises on that. These answers usually have a day or two delay time because I get the emails in the middle of the night oftentimes. Although the guy at Brinyte keeps long hours… I’ll get emails all the way until 7a or 8a and as early as 9pm at night.
BTW, hi from a Greek flashoholic newbie and many thanks tomhanlenfor the effort and the will to inform everybody on this project. Thanks also to everybody who posted things that helped me understand the project, especiallyKKWfor the info regarding the mod he did (even if I don't understand it well without pics or/& video).
Notes:
I'd also like to order a couple of Bare Brass Modules, but asKeepingItLight wrote (p#199) "I don't have the tools or know-how to add the emitter and driver I would like!" I'd order them ifsomebody could upload a video (like mhanlen wrote @ post#200) and give me links for buying the parts needed for the mod (only trustworthy sellers & e-shops that can ship to Greece pls). I really like the idea of having a moded B158 with 300k+cd likeKKW's!
I haven't understand if what we'll order comes with XML2U2CW (as described at the list @ post#2) or U4(as shrickwrote @ post#203).
I'm new to flashlights, so please forgive me if I say (or/and ask) dull things for flashoholic experts!
Nope. At least not through the Gear Best channel. You are more than welcome to contact them through their aliexpress store, and see if they offer any other configuration options.
It’s definitely the XML2-U2 that comes with it. I verified this today with Brinyte. The version I reviewed was the U4, but Gear Best ordered the U2. It’s a cool white emitter.
A dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B on a 16mm Noctigon, solder or thermal adhesive to mount it, a good FET driver like the 17mm MTN-DD driver, and a wire jumper on the tailcap spring. All of these should be easy to order from the Mountain Electronics international store.
Is it worth ordering XP-G2 S3 3D LED on Noctigon @4750-5000K in neutral white?
Or will the lens shift the tint so the light wont be within specified range tint wise?
S4 seems to be the most efficient lumen wise, but S3 doesnt lag behind much(I understand that CW at the same lumens will look brighter than NW/WW?).
Looking into cool white or neutral white XP-E2 on Noctigon as well, should I try one of those also(depending on what you say about tint shift in zoomies)?
OK, that's clear now. "Cree XM-L2 U4" is gb's mistake. I wish I knew what's the real difference between them (U2-U4 etc) though...
I believe I know what "solder or thermal adhesive" is. I've got a cheap soldering iron (could be this), but never had to use it since I've bought it.
I don't know what are the rest, so I searched them on mtnelectronics.com and found these:
Regarding "dedomedXP-G2 S4 2B on Noctigon16mm" I found this result.
I've searched for "dedome" @ BLF and found 223488 results! :O Could you (or/and someone else) give me link to understand how I could "dedome" it?
Regarding "good FET driver like the 17mm MTN-DD driver" I found these results. Which one do you suggest?
I'm really sorry, but as a newbie (who doesn't speak english as a native language) I don't understand what "wire jumper on the tailcap spring" is. I couldn't find "wire jumper" as a part in mtnelectronics.com, so I googled it and found some info @ wiki. The problem is that I don't know where to find (or how to make) it as part and -mainly- how to use it if I find (or manage to make) it!
Bottom line: I need a "How To" guide with pics/video in order to go on for the DIY and get the various parts (assuming somebody gives/confirms the links for the right parts), else I'm gonna RIP with the standard GB's White B158 XML2-U2 version.
The LED you found is correct, if you check the box that says dedome option it will come to you dedomed. The third driver (unfortunately currently out of stock) is the driver I’d recommend. It would come fully assembled.
Unless you have a butane torch I’d just use thermal adhesive to mount the MCPCB to the pill. You’ll need the soldering iron to make the connection between the positive and negative wires and the pads on the MCPCB, and to solder the ground ring of the driver to the brass pill.
Here’s a tutorial on adding a braid (I prefer 18-20ga silicone or Teflon coated wire). Tutorial for bridging springs
Fwiw you can order the FET +1 driver with Toykeepers firmware from Mtnelectronics with the driver spring already bypassed so all you need to do is solder the emitter wires.
His concern, I think, was how to do it on the tailcap, but good to note so he realizes it’s only on one end that he should need a spring bypass if he didn’t already.