Redilast 2900 mah 18650

I'd like to see 1A & 2.5A discharges from the Xtar 2600mAh and the Redilast 2900mAh down to 3V.

It would be very interesting to see if they maintain the 11.5% difference between them.

tuesday ill buy some redilast and maybe the next tuesday ill get some xtars and play around more with data logging as im intrested, but the 0.5 volt diffrence with the cut off might make a diffrence from what im seeing with the trustfire flames charging with 0.7 volt diffrence from start to finish, they might come close, might have to step up the discharge rates.

Well before you keep quoting me I think you need to look at the overall picture. The Trustfire flame batteries I have been told by some that they are probably almost as good as the Xtar but not quite. Now how long they will last is yet to be seen. But money does become an issue on overall value and to some they don't like paying $19 for 1 battery that promises you the moon. Personally I say buy what you want, and I will buy what I want. For me, I will only buy the Trustfire flames, Xtar, Hi-Max, or Sanyo protected batteries. I think all of these are good batteries. Some may be a little better than others. But all should be safe and offer a very good value.

Here are graphs for the AW 2900s (same cell inside as the Redilast) and at the end is a comparison to the Sanyo 2600 (what is supposedly inside the XTARs)

Flames don't quite measure up, but at the price they are still hard to beat.

Thanks for the responses- they are all applicable and make perfect sense.

Not the best for $ but the Redilast on my little torch ( similar electronically to the Tank 007 TK 737- but not as nice a host and unregulated) should/ might run a bit hotter/brighter during first hour and also run quite a bit longer due to larger capacity and running down to 2.5 volts- I'll check it out.

Seems like 18650s are like electric guitars- no two, even the same brand and type are exactly alike........

I can't see any photos or links in the post.

going by some test of CPF the redlist have better pcb's (IC's)

I think it's significant the ILIKEFFLASHLIGHTS is getting good results and good Trustfire Flames- seems I read that there are some inferior or counterfeit versions of those around as well.

18650s- great power source, but very quirky supplies.....

But- I've been reading lots of threads and charts lately- and the Trustfire Flames have been one of the most consistent performers of all always- 2400-2450 mah- which is really amazing considering they are a budget battery.

And for about 3 times the price -you can get about 20%- 30 % more performance from the Panasonic repackaged cells, and a very few exotics ( depending on which spec ) - and you can get about 10% to 15% more performance for about double the price on a few other brands ( depending on which spec ).

Not an expert so please correct me if the above is wrong regarding increased performance- it's oversimplified at best- I know many of you have done some accurate tests, so I'll edit if it's wrong

Sorry. Fixed.

Your graphs are very nice.

Sanyo 2600 vs AW 2900

There's a 9% difference. So the difference reduced from 11.5% to 9%. Probably because the AW 2900 wasn't discharged down to 2.5

I posted a link on post #4 that contains a few different 18650 test’s including aw’s and redilast batteries the redilast seam to perform better and test of CPF seams to show they are better protected, the might be the same cells ? but the redilast seam to perform better and would be my choice over aw’s

I've just had a AW 2900 shut itself off. 0.0V. After two seconds in the charger the voltage was 2.9XX

It was a double cell configuration and this one wasn't charged identical to the other one. The other one had 3.0V

you should of brought trustfire flame's

Considering that one cell is closer to the emitter and driver, and any heat they generate (assuming the cells are in line of course), you would expect some difference in battery performance and hence end voltage. With that in mind, with only 0.1v difference at the point that the PCB cut in, they sound pretty well matched.

agreeded 2.9x volt vs 3 volt is not bad for a multi cell set up in my multi cell lights there is always a slight diffrence after use even if they are all be balance charged together, even then you might get a 10 mv diffence

They were not equal in capacity (voltage more precisely) because I used on of the cells in a single cell flashlight for several minutes.

Now got them both charged, 4.16V each.

Yep, you had said that they weren't equal to begin with, but without knowing just how big a difference there was between them, it was hard to take that in to account.

That's been my whole point. I have heard of fake flames, but I have yet to get any. All the ones I have actually burn with greater tailcap amps in at least the light I compared them to using Xtar and Hi-Max batteries. now that don't mean much. But like I said, for the money and time will tell how many charges they will take and hold a charge with out losing much of their overall capacity, one has got to say they are a very good deal for the price. Maybe one of the best deals out there.

That can also mean resistance. Not that the flashlight is brighter. Those higher amps in any situation will mean less runtime, even if it's a direct drive. Also it depends what that specific driver is capable of.

Well for $10.70 shipped, the TF Flames are merely average...ok. The XTAR 2600s are very strong contenders.

But at 6.71 shipped @ DD, they are very good to use esp on current regulated lights (2 x 18650 esp) in which seriously speaking you won't see no diff 99.98% of the time . And if you participated in the DD group buys then you can use those 50 dino points (50 cents) on them. A bit regret now that i did not get more.

But if you put safety first as absolutely top priority and you don't regularly measure your cells, then the XTARs probably give more confidence.