[WIP] 17mm DD+single-7135 driver / single sided / Dual-PWM

Yes, copper is underheath.
They really are purple, it is due to white balance of my phone with artificial (non-led 0:laughing: light (today it´s very cloudy here).
Thanks!

Yes, I've had the same problem, but think just once. Opened a ticket on it, and they explained they've been having this problem with Alex's board once in a while and not sure why. It does have to do where/how your batch is placed in the panel sent to the fab house. They were very accommodating and rushed a replacement batch sent free of charge. Still takes a week or two, but still great support.

I also used the masked ones - just had to scrape off the masking where I wanted to solder.

Hi Tom, your explanation is highly appreciated.
I also thought about removing mask, but i preffer contact them; i don’t want end up with ruined boards and without the possibility of asking for new ones.

Is v009 the latest and best version to order for a FET+7135 driver?

wight’s profile says he has been absent for a while so there were no updates in the OP.

thanks.

Pablo - The masking is easy to scrape off - I use an exacto type knife with a curved edge - works great, never had a problem - the curved edge is the important part, no point to deep scratch. Actually I do this all the time when I want to expose copper for grounds, or for other traces, etc.

tech - Well, I'm still using these v009's. Richard has an OSHPark design too, as well as other variations out there, maybe by PD68 and pyroson1.

This wight v009 was the board design the BLF A6 is based on.

Mmmm… i think i have a perfect knive for that somewhere, I might give it a try.

Thank you, Tom E.

guess I’ll order the v009’s

I think you can use really fine sandpaper, just lay it on a flat surface and you can sand off mask coating! At least I could try that method…

Yes, sanding is an option, but i have experienced lapping tiny things very difficult to do even, being borders worn much faster than center.

BTW, i already have a new boards bach on a new panel, nice good service from OSH park :bigsmile:

This is my first time building the a driver on my own. I have everything needed my question is do I flash the attiny before or after I bake it on the pcb? I assume I can flash and re-flash in circuit.
Thanks,
Neil

Neil - You can do it before or after, I've done them both ways.

Before: the SOIC-8 clip does seem to work fine with the "in air" MCU. Just be sure you get it positioned correctly before releasing pressure on the clip - clamping down on the MCU pins. I'm always concerned I'm gonna bend pins, but it never happened, but again, I'm extra careful before I let the clip clamp down on the pins in-air.

After: as long as you positioned the parts correctly, on this board you should be able to get a good clip on the MCU. Be sure your clip is wired correctly with a good ground. (lot of earlier posts and ref. pics and posts had it wrong!!). Also, I found it helps cleaning up the MCU pins with isopropyl alcohol to get off any residual flux from the reflow. I like using a small stiff brush.

Note: I updated the flashlight wiki page on the AVR Drivers for the ground pin connection here: http://flashlightwiki.com/AVR_Drivers. The ground is on dongle side pin #10 (or #8), not pin #4.

I was told to use a horse hair brush to clean pcbs; so I went to a nearby horse stable (fairly common here) and got some hair for free. bundled them into a brush and it works great.

Interesting bout the horse hair... How could you make a brush though?

For the grnd wire, it worked for me a long time not having it wired correctly, but had occasional problems, thinking it was the clip, etc. - intermittent issues. Once I corrected the grnd wire, worked sooo much better. Only problems I've had since is when there's flux on the pins, if I didn't clean them first. After cleaning, works all the time. Been trying to make a habit of always cleaning, since I'm probably getting flux contamination on the clip , and could build up. The clip can always be cleaned as well.

Thank you so much for the detailed info.
Neil

horsehair is supposed to be an anti-static material (not easily charged electrically).

I stole my girlfriends’ old makeup brush and replaced / glued the horsehair in. Hope she is ok with that.

Shrinkwrap-and-glue a bundle of horsehair over the end of a stick. Google ‘handmade brush’ or ‘homemade brush’ for pictures.

Trim the end with a razor for applying paint, or leave the end variable for ‘dusting’

I think this is the right thread to ask.
Are there any firmwares except toykeeper’s ready-to-flash ?
Could you provide me a link ?

Not sure. I don't usually post HEX files because I build mine on demand for modes, tweaked, turbo timeout setup, etc., so not a good idea, unless you have a fixed, static setup: same hardware, same modes, same options.

This is why I'm going with the more versatile programmable UI, so we can use a common hex file, then reconfigure it after it's burned in, but this requires more memory than a 13A has, so why we are migrating to the Tiny25 and Tiny85.

Thanks for your answer. I’m new to the whole programming thing , and I don’t know how to do edit modes on code and so on.
I’m still searching , but if you had any recommendations (where to start from , or some guides) it would be great.

Thanks again

CRX's incredible reference thread, https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/23020, has a section for programming drivers - you will find some useful info there.

I'm using the latest Atmel Studio 7, free download here: http://www.atmel.com/tools/atmelstudio.aspx. You can begin with that and go from there, if you haven't dnld'ed it already.