The butterfly type aren’t sticky but are a tight press fit to the substrate and stay put when the reflector is removed. The lip is not as prominent either.
You should be able to fast click to the first two blinks then shut it down between blinks. Turn light on again fast click and wait for second set of blinks and shut it down. Be sure to check the diagram on the first page.
You are already in mode memory by the “second” set of 2-blinks. The “first” set of 2-blinks toggles the 7/4 modes. Turn off after the first blink of the first set of 2-blinks for the 4-mode.
Shutting the light off during the 2 blinks in the configuration mode enables that option. So if you want to toggle between 7 and 4 modes, turn it off during the blinks on the first set. To enable or disable memory, turn the light off during the second set of blinks. I usually click it off between the two blinks, but even immediately after the second blink will do the job.
4/7 and memory are independent of each other, but it does take entering the configuration mode a second time to access either or.
I received my A6 and had the same issue with the switch never disconnecting, so the light was always on. Switch worked fine outside of the tailcap, but once any pressure was applied to the switch housing, which happens when the retaining ring is tightened in the tailcap, it never disconnects. Luckily I had a spare switch lying around that I swapped onto the board (no clue how many amps it can handle) to make the light work correctly.
I'm contacting the email address in the first post to see if they can send out a replacement. However, is this the best switch to go with? Is there a better one I can swap in there?
Side note: huge thanks to everyone involved. I honestly didn't read much about the light, just saw the specs and the huge amount of people in the group buy, so I ordered. I'm seriously impressed with the firmware, makes me jealous that TK was able to pack so much logic into one tiny 13a :)
This sounds like something we saw in our get-together in Oakland on Sunday. The rubber switch cover is too tight, so it presses ever so slightly on the switch, breaking the connection.
That's what I thought at first too, but it was actually a faulty switch. Just giving a heads up in case anyone else has the problem. I ordered a few switches from Mtn Electronics, so we'll see how they do (although the one I swapped in seems to be holding up fine so far).
Not sure if this is the right size. Pretty sure it would work. But I’m guessing if RMM carries it that it will handle direct drive. I also keep hearing about omten. But someone more experienced will know what you need.
Seems to have large traces and some via’s to help out the load.
I’m interested as well; with the 18350 tube it would be especially useful to use while fishing. I’ve looked around a little, but since I don’t know all the places to look for parts, I have no idea whether something is available or not.
Good day George! Thanks for your reply. I found a 23mm inner diameter one for nite core, but the BLF A6 is 24mm. Are those thing somewhat stretchable? Or is there one for 24mm light?
and some via’s to help out the load.
