BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

Good day George! Thanks for your reply. I found a 23mm inner diameter one for nite core, but the BLF A6 is 24mm. Are those thing somewhat stretchable? Or is there one for 24mm light?

G'Day Roadie,

I have the 40mm one, and it is made with a soft thick slightly stretchable black silicone rubber material.

Best Regards,

George

That’s awesome George! Thank you for your help!

Is this driver suitable for a (paralel) triple? The fet part probably is, but I doubt the other modes will be handled correctly.

It runs my triple fine.

I learned a few things. Get the proper copper spacer (heat management is very important for this driver), I probably won’t be running it with my 30q’s anymore (too many amps), don’t run d.d. too long.

I’m not sure if I have a defected A6 or if I just activated some type of mode I was unaware about. I seem to have lost the full click and release feature to turn the light off. Whenever I fully click to attempt to turn off the light the modes either downgrade to a lower level or upgrade to a higher level. The light will not turn off until the modes are cycled through. Then sometimes the light will turn off on a full click like I was expecting it to. Im just not seeing any consistency with the modes and it’s becoming very confusing. Does anyone have any thoughts about these issues I am having? Any help would be greatly appreciate it. Thanks

First check that the tailcap is not putting constant pressure on the switch. However for me the switch was bad and I had to swap it out with something else.

EDIT: Look at the previous page in this thread to find discussions about it.

Just posting to verify that this switch did work. We'll see how well it holds up, but I can't imagine it's any worse than the stock switch.

After reading the previous page and seeing the problem that jofus had I’m almost completely confident that I have the exact same problem. Earlier today my light came on all by itself exactly like he mentioned. What should I do from here contact the seller for replacement parts or should I just buy a new switch on my own?

Update - I remembered I had a Convoy S2+ host laying around. I took off the tail cap and screwed it onto the a6 and wallah it was working like normal. Then I had a whole new problem. The light would not come on at all. I gently flicked the top and then the light came on. Seems like I have another problem located up by the driver. What would I have to do about getting a replacement?

The titanium clip from Banggood only shows screws but no nut. The stainless steel clip
Convoy clip
Has screws and nuts but requires the holes to be filed because they are about 1 mm too far apart. The clip is not of the best quality but it works very well, has no sharp edges and costs less than $2.

There is another retainer ring at the driver side - bottom of head. Perhaps that’s loose?

On mine (second batch) both rings were not loose, but weren’t tight either so I snugged them up after the initial function testing. I think it would have become an issue in use had I not done that. I would have never checked that but I noticed people here had said it was an issue on other lights so I figured it was worth checking and I’m glad I did. It’s a good habit now.

Phil

Is there any chance someone could discuss with the maker the possibility of tweaking the A6 pocket clips?

My bare A6 that I received about 2 months ago came with an awesome titanium clip but the bend radius on the 180 deg bend was probably less than 0.050". Almost like it was smashed flat in a press. Also the material is only .032" thick. Weak and flimsy. It would not slide in my pocket without using both hands and forcing it on. I heated it up and fixed it so it's more like 0.150" bend radius and now it's perfect.

I ordered 3 more of the A6 "titanized" stainless clips and they are the same way . The stock titanium clip wasn't difficult to fix but with these being stainless they will lose their temper if I heat and rebend.

It would be awesome if the maker could be coerced convinced to make ALL the clips out of 0.040" titanium with a bend radius of 0.125"-0.150".

It seems like I read in here somewhere that a lot of the clips were breaking in the beginning and after getting mine I can see why. Add pretty flimsy 0.032" material with an absolute minimum bend radius in a 180 deg bend and a little too much of a tug and SNAP... Way to easy.

I believe if the clips were made using .040" titanium with the .125-.150" bend radius in the 180deg bend then these clips would be way tougher and less likely to break because of the added thickness and way easier to get in and out of the pocket. They could also be easily tweeked to fit other lights...

Just my 2 cents throw in… only had my BLF A6 for 2 days…

Do not use Cr123’s 2x… checked in with Bugsy36 (Thanks!)

Turbo will not work with protected cheaper low mah cells… (i.e. cheap radio shack 18650’s) Blinks and shuts down. All other modes work fine, so okay to use as a back up/emergency battery. Use a quality battery and works fine. Still learning my light and love it so far!!!

Thanks all for making this light!

Hello everyone , some days ago i received my A6 and i love it .
Ordered one INR18650-30Q , and i wil be bypassing both springs.
What else i should do for maximum output ? maybe changing the wires between driver and led ?
thanks

Giorgaki! Everything you said including the emitter wires except when you bypass the tail use Dale's method and go direct to the switch ;)

Thanks a lot bugsy , what wires should I choose for bypasses and emitter ? Right now , without mods and protected ICR18650-26FM hits 3 amps!

Cheers from Greece

I do not know what gauge wire because I do not mod that often.

A lot of the information is here....much easier than trying to read the original BLF A6 thread. I think most of it is in the first or second post of this thread. Also...DB Custom (Dale aka FrankenDale will probably also chime in...as will a bunch of others).

One thing though...DO NOT take the light apart until 100% cooled off and be careful not to let reflector spin. You can keep the reflector from spinning by keeping light pressure on the lens when turning the bezel.

Thanks again for your help and tips!