Nichia 219C, testing a 5000K 83CRI emitter, comparing with a XP-G2 S4 2B and other leds

I haven’t seen any 4000K 219C but there is 4000K 219B V1 HCRI at Illumn.com here
The beamshots I’ve seen of the HDS lights with these 4000K HCRI 219B look really good.

Thanks for the great test, I need to get more familiar with Nichia emitters, and the graph made things much clearer.

Thanks for the explanation. I’ll keep in mind that your current tests are bare LED lumens.

I got my 219C 4000K's at Cutter, here: http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut2744 - good price except for the shipping.

You should add a bunch of other emitters like the XPL and XML, need moar data!!!

Check his signature block at the bottom…. Djozz is a very prolific tester….

Hint: It says DJOZZ Tests in blue…

Camo5 - please read this opening post thoroughly: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/23020, report back Smile. You will (may) find buried in there a whole section dedicated to djozz's tests, all the thread links - I'm guessing it's bout 1/4 the way into it.

The linked thread's OP is an incredible amount of work to put together and does a great job summarizing things.

For some reason I had been having a very hard time finding this data. thanks!!

just added another one: Nichia 219B V1 4000K 93CRI :party:

So……in a light with one cell only it’s probably best to use this new Nichia Led, due to the low Vf (3,5V @ 6A) because with one cell the XP G2 S4 would probably reach no more then 4A @ 3,9V……?

Grtz
Nico

Hi djozz,

I’ve just found this picture and it could be the answer to a question that was bugging me for a while. Assuming this is a XP-G2 on the right:
Are there some revisions of the XP-G2 with a different number of “dots” at the die? I’ve swapped some Latticebright with XP-G2 in those violet AA Zoomies (“Ultrafire Q5” or SK72XPE/SK72) and the older one of the XP-G2 has rows of 4/5 dots. The one I’ve just recently bought from Fasttech has more dots per row (6/7) and they are less noticeable, what is a good thing when the light is focused. Another difference is the lack of the small “+” sign on top beside the dome at the newer XP-G2. I was afraid they are fake, but the colour of the base and other characteristics match the known CREE’s I have. Brightness is also on the same level.

I’m wondering if I should use 2 or 3 of this nichias for a mountainbike-helmet-light with a LD-2(M) driver set to 6A. Is it safe to use them constantly for 20 minutes on 2 or 3 amps, if well cooled?
I red that they survive much higher currents for seconds, but has any of you tried them with higher currents for a longer time?

The test in the OP was on a DTP copper board. Assuming such boards, my gut feeling tells me if they survive 10 amps for a short period without damage, they will survive 3 amps, which is well below its maximum output, without problems for a prolonged period.

Well that’s what I think too. Mine are on Noctigon boards. Nichia claims 1.8A maximum (cont.) and 2.4A for peaks. So I will probably try the 3A 8)

I have not had trouble with 12 x 380 ma 7135 in my CNQ.

Okay djozz, I’m relying on your superior understanding of the 219C.

I want to build a triple, and it’s my understanding that a BLF DD driver would not be prudent for this emitter.
In a properly copper heatsinked torch with a regulated driver what do you feel would be the ultimate current to drive this emitter to perfection. I mean getting everything it can give (safely) before it starts playing games?

Edit: or would a DD driver be okay in single cell parallel setup.
And what would be the best in a single emitter light?

I have been running a single 219C with a FET+1 driver in a beater host (one of the fake red S2+ from GB) for the past couple of weeks. I like it. Good tint with power-to-go when you need it.

It does OK with the FET+1 driver, but I would not recommend the simple FET DD drivers. The low modes would be terribly inefficient, with huge PWM current spikes.

My FET+1 driver is set up to use mainly the 7135, with a single turbo mode that uses the FET for DD only. The turbo mode has a 30 s timeout. The driver also steps down when the driver voltage drops below 3.4 V, and this happens very quickly on anything but a fresh IMR/INR cell. I will probably change the step-down to 3.2 V to better match the low Vf of the 219C.

The pill is aluminum, which I suspect is doing better than a brass pill would. The body heats up instantly when going DD, but the current is reasonable. < 5.2 A, even with fresh-off-the-charger 30Qs. Springs will smoke and absolutely needs to be bypassed or low resistance bronze type. Not sure how long the switch will last. I am using 1.5” 22AWG wires.

So guys it should handle 2.8A in thermal modded P60 dropin?
MIke

2.8A through a 219C is a very decent current provided that it is mounted on a dtp copper board. And a triple 219C on a direct driver should be fine too, but very proper heatsinking should be taken care of.

In fact I have a triple 219C with a BLF-A6 driver (direct drive FET+7135) in the titanium Rey-host that has fairly lousy heatsinking. I do not dare running it with a 18650 on turbo for longer than 30 seconds, but longer on a 18350.

This thread is very helpfull.
I made my choice.
The beautiful s4 host(fasttech) a BLF A6 A17DD + 7135 (banggood) and a 219c from intl-outdoor.
And a NCR18650B
It will be a great EDC ;
If diode draw too much amps .I will mod a Nangj for this light.
I want 6.2 amps :bigsmile:

Waiting everything arrive.

Thank a lot for this thread.

Somebody know wherre to buy copper pill for this hoste and I can buy a SMO reflector for it?