TK or anyone that's used bistro. First time trying it, on a wight FET+1 driver, a Tiny25V. It seems to always come up in config mode. There's a pause for couple secs, then it starts from config setting #1 - if I just let it go, sometimes it stops in config #2, one time I let it go thru all settings, and the LED was on in the end, but as soon as I cycles power, it still doesn't work - runs config mode again.
I'm using the fuse settings as specified in the header of the source code. Anyone get it working? Anyone see this happening?
Hmmm, I havenāt seen that. Iāve flashed bistro many times, you know, making tweaks, adjusting defaults, LVP, upgrading to new bistro revisions, etc. Though Iāve only used it on attiny85 (normal, not āvā).
Youāre trying the newest revision 207 (2015-11-08)?
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She dropped BOD and also increased the startup delay from 4ms to the max of 64ms. You can compare them with these direct links to each set of fuses in the Engbedded Atmel AVR Fuse Calculator.
Looking through my files it seems Iāve been using BOD 1.8v, startup delay 64ms (max). L: 0xe2, H: 0xde, E: 0xff. I believe I been using those since the beginning with bistro, ignoring the ones mentioned in bistro.c. Thought a longer startup delay wouldnāt hurt anything.
Also just try reflashing a couple times. I had a odd, different bug when 1st trying out the tiny85. The bug was there for the first couple flashes, then it just disappeared on a later flash and never came back. I did nothing to fix the bug. No changes. Just vanished.
I've done lots of 85's with my latest firmware - goes really smooth now, no hickups, but this is my first 25V using bistro. I used 25's back in the beginning though.
Got the new 11-08 version with the new fuse settings (e2, df, ff) and it's still working the same - always comes up in config mode. How is it supposed to start up? Is there a default mode set?
I'm confused, info is sketchy, TK doesn't seem to be around.
Hi, I was temporarily tied up in Mordor, but now Iāve got a few days in The Shire to catch up a bitā¦
If it enters config mode, it thinks that fast_presses is greater than 15 (at least one of its four upper bits is set) and the OTC value indicates it was a short press.
So, this could mean that the OTC isnāt calibrated. Or it could mean that the mem decay trick isnāt working. Iād start by measuring the OTC values and then plugging them into a new build of bistro.
BTW, the weather in Mordor is nice this time of year.
I think I got a problem with the OTC cap - I added it later by hand soldering so maybe it got too hot, or bad solder joint. I'll try replacing it. Thanks!
Iām mighty impressed that you can get internet in the Shire. Never looked like they had much in the way of technology, at all. I mean they donāt even know how to make or otherwise acquire shoes! They make the Amish look like the Jetsons.
It was the cap - bad solder joint. Once fixed, it came up in 4 modes, well 3 modes plus moon. Think that's the default?
On to the next problem - high mode flickers on for a moment than switch's right a way to the 1st mode. If a use a higher resistance cell, the problem goes away. I noticed this behavior when trying to get a tailcap amp reading, even on the weaker cell. Don't think I ever saw a problem like this - not sure, maybe bad ground. Something to do with high amps, not just FET usage... Dunno.
Update:
Ok, - got a Fix!! Added a 2nd 10 uF cap sitting on top of the normal one, and wholla! Problem goes away!! Details in Post #580 here.
I've used this type of fix before, on a 22 mm driver.
Yup, that sounds like the issue Iāve been trying to figure out. About all I know about it is to add a second or bigger cap though, or maybe add a little one between VCC and GND, or something along those lines. Iām really not an electrical engineer.
TK - so are you gonna go with the extra cap? Are you still researching it? Is this happening on the X6/X5 driver version?
I'm wondering if there's any other effects - reduced amps or any other flakiness. Have you noticed any side effects?
Update:
The other really annoying issue has been the bright flash/blink, switching from Hi to moon/low. I added back the 12K resistor across the FET gate and it seems to eliminate it. I made some code changes to zero out the PWM outputs upon init, but that alone didn't help. I left those zero settings in the code though, because the state it's in now is perfect.
I tried a lot of firmware tricks to try to eliminate the turbo->moon flash, but nothing seemed to make any difference. It seems to be entirely a hardware issue.
About the extra cap, Iāve been away for a few weeks and canāt do much testing. However, I should have a fix to test when I get back home.
Adding a 12K resistor across the FET gait (to gnd) seems to have fixed it perfectly. I tested it on the bench and the flash went away totally, completely. Then, made the same resistor mod to a wight FET+1 driver, ATtiny25V, extra 10 uF cap stacked, running my own ported version of what started as STAROffTime (OTC). Installed the driver in a new style Convoy L2 w/UCLp, de-dedomed XM-L2 U2 (oopsy!) U4 1C on a Noctigon and got:
EFEST 26650 4200 @4.21v - 5.24A tail
1636 lumens @start, 1608 lumens @30 secs, and 282 kcd measured at 5m (1062 meters)
So I'd say the resistor and cap certainly don't seem effect performance, so far so good.
Iām sure this information has been laid out somewhere for the simple-minded, but I donāt understand all of the āincludeā¦ā¦ .hā all over the code. This must be the reason Iāve stuck with blf-a6 code from May.
Never looked like they had much in the way of technology, at all. I mean they donāt even know how to make or otherwise acquire shoes! They make the Amish look like the Jetsons.