D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

Well over a month after I posted that, I have finally done a full test and it works great. I’m going to stretch it out to 19 or 20mm and update the OP with a lot of the new info we have, “soon”. :wink:

I still haven’t bought any pots, so I used resistors over the pot pads. I tested with a 4.7k and the other empty, and then another test with a 1k on the other pads. As you can see in the video below, it’s very easy to switch between on and off, or between 2 preset levels set with either resistors or potentiometers. (sorry for the portrait orientation of the video :Sp )

Edit: Here is the 20mm stretch of my Rev4 board, now all that’s left to do is update the OP.

Ok guys I’ve updated the OP. I set out to simplify it, but it actually got longer. Hopefully the information is at least more clear and complete. I took the liberty of adding some pictures from others in this thread, if you want me to take your pic down then PM me.

If there are any other sources for anything you think I should add, let me know.

How about the switch itself.

I usually use the switch that came in the light originally, but I’ll see if I can find some Omten 1288’s to add to the OP.

edit: added some links to switches to the OP. Also found some 14mm clear boot covers on KD

Cnqg appears out of stock but last I checked RMM has them loose and Fastech has them mounted.

Ive got everything and built the pcb, but I've either burnt out the leds or they are backwards? I'm not really sure how to know which way they need oriented. I see a green dot on one side, I assumed was the + side?

Look on the bottom, there should be a sideways ‘T’ and the wider/flat side is the + side. If you bought from lighthouse led’s, I believe the green dot is the - side. If you go to the product listing on lighthouseleds it has a picture showing polarity. I always have to check their website when I build a new one.

Yea I had them backwards. I looked at djozzis pic and pyros' pics and they were both the same with the green dot being the - side. I flipped them around and still no go, so I swapped for a couple different identical leds. Still a no go, and I'm out of time for today :(

and the modes won't switch with an mtn17dd driver using a 560ohm resistor from the + spring to ground ring.

I'm wondering if I didn't fry a trace in the pcb during assembly. I attempted to test the leds and the aligator clips fizzed so there's a chance I fried something. Hopefully I'll have some time tomorrow to mess with it some more!

Hmm interesting. You could upload a pic if you can and we can look at the other stuff to make sure there isn’t anything obvious. What version of pcb are you using?

Well guys I had hoped that the Kronos groupbuy light would force a major retailer to source clear boot covers and we could all benefit, but it looks like they will only use the 14mm covers, not the elusive 16mm size. We need a new source. Maybe we could convince KD to source them since they already carry other colors and the clear 14mm?

Try this I just had to download the tinypic app so I don't know how the images will turn out, or if they will..

The other side...

this 100k pot has a start and stop position, it won't spin full circle, and it fit the pads perfect. I double sprung the spring, and I'll be adding a bypass after things start working, this sinner is running 12.3A at the tailcap with a triple xpl.

Here is a pic of the specs for the LeD's I'm using. They are rated way less MCD than the ones you are using, is there something about these that are keeping them from lighting up?

So I re-read djozzs' post, he actually used a 1k resistor and suggested a 15k would work better with his setup With the red LEDs and 680ohm bleeder.

I'm using a 560ohm bleeder and a 15k resistor. I'm thinking I'm holding back too much power? Even if I bypass the diode pads with wire/solder I still shouldn't be putting too much to my leds since it's 7.5mA (4.2/560) 15,560ohms=.2mA+/- the 100kohm pot.

i think that is where I will start my troubleshooting. I also want to order 680ohm resistors to use as a bleeder and see if it fixes my mode switching issues.

I have never been able to use that high of resistance. Usually the highest I can use in the tail is about 6.8k before I can’t see it though the tailcap anymore. I know Djozz does use higher resistance than me, but I think his spacers/washers let more light through than mine do. I would definitely try lower resistance.

Are you testing in a light or out of a light?

What driver are you using? Some drivers (specifically some of TK’s firmware) might require re-calibrating the firmware for the mode switching to work correctly, because it had to be designed pretty sensitive for the mode reversing to function at all.

I’m using a 10k POT and at 10K its not really visable so try around the 5-7K area on the tail.

Really? I’m glad I didn’t order the 50k then. I ended up ordering 20k.

Wait, what resistor/diode do you have that paired with?

My washers are homemade from clear plexi-glass, I use a white switch in my latest one. A lot went wrong first with my tailboards, with leds not lighting up. I think I made every mistake possible at first, but now it works. I do use a simple led-tester to check the working during the build-up, it at least helps getting the polarity right.

This is the one I have, I just swapped the momentary switch for a small clicky switch, to have both hands available.

Good news: I have initial word that Simon/Convoy will try to source the 16mm clear boots

This would be awesome!!!