Well guys I had hoped that the Kronos groupbuy light would force a major retailer to source clear boot covers and we could all benefit, but it looks like they will only use the 14mm covers, not the elusive 16mm size. We need a new source. Maybe we could convince KD to source them since they already carry other colors and the clear 14mm?
Try this I just had to download the tinypic app so I don't know how the images will turn out, or if they will..
The other side...
this 100k pot has a start and stop position, it won't spin full circle, and it fit the pads perfect. I double sprung the spring, and I'll be adding a bypass after things start working, this sinner is running 12.3A at the tailcap with a triple xpl.
Here is a pic of the specs for the LeD's I'm using. They are rated way less MCD than the ones you are using, is there something about these that are keeping them from lighting up?
So I re-read djozzs' post, he actually used a 1k resistor and suggested a 15k would work better with his setup With the red LEDs and 680ohm bleeder.
I'm using a 560ohm bleeder and a 15k resistor. I'm thinking I'm holding back too much power? Even if I bypass the diode pads with wire/solder I still shouldn't be putting too much to my leds since it's 7.5mA (4.2/560) 15,560ohms=.2mA+/- the 100kohm pot.
i think that is where I will start my troubleshooting. I also want to order 680ohm resistors to use as a bleeder and see if it fixes my mode switching issues.
I have never been able to use that high of resistance. Usually the highest I can use in the tail is about 6.8k before I can’t see it though the tailcap anymore. I know Djozz does use higher resistance than me, but I think his spacers/washers let more light through than mine do. I would definitely try lower resistance.
Are you testing in a light or out of a light?
What driver are you using? Some drivers (specifically some of TK’s firmware) might require re-calibrating the firmware for the mode switching to work correctly, because it had to be designed pretty sensitive for the mode reversing to function at all.
I’m using a 10k POT and at 10K its not really visable so try around the 5-7K area on the tail.
Really? I’m glad I didn’t order the 50k then. I ended up ordering 20k.
Wait, what resistor/diode do you have that paired with?
My washers are homemade from clear plexi-glass, I use a white switch in my latest one. A lot went wrong first with my tailboards, with leds not lighting up. I think I made every mistake possible at first, but now it works. I do use a simple led-tester to check the working during the build-up, it at least helps getting the polarity right.
This is the one I have, I just swapped the momentary switch for a small clicky switch, to have both hands available.
Good news: I have initial word that Simon/Convoy will try to source the 16mm clear boots
This would be awesome!!!
Simon! :party: 
Maybe one or two of the clear insulation/spacer discs would work allowing more light through with less parasitic drain?
Maybe, I’m not sure if that would be sturdy enough though.
Just reporting that I have a more definite answer on this. Simon has found a source and ordered some for his store. The only thing that can stop us now is if that supplier backs out.
I HAVE LIGHT!!!!
I tried a couple different things, here are my results...
MTN17DD driver with guppydrv rev2 in a Sinner host.
560ohm driver bleeder between + spring and ground ring.
15k resistor on the diode pads
NO LIGHT!
560 ohm driver bleeder resistor
560 ohm resistor on diode pads
pot turned full left, no light
pot turned half, no light
pot turned full right, very very dim light!!!
so then I removed the resistor on the tailcap pcb and used half the strands from a piece of 20ga wire to bypass the resistor pads.
560 ohm driver bleeder
bypassed diode spot with wire
pot turned full left, no light
pot turned half, no light
pot turned 3/4 right, very very dim light
pot turned full right, decent but dim light!!! Not visible through switch boot.
so my modes don't switch at all not with guppydrv, I swapped the 15k driver bleeder resistor hoping to change that and have very very dim light that may charge the gitd switch boot, but even with the 15k driver bleeder the firmware still will not function right.
I'm going to have to try more experiments with the blf a6 firmware I have on order. For now I'm going to put the 560ohm resistor back on the driver and leave it at 30% so I can have some light and see if the dim light is enough to keep the boot charged. I am going to order brighter leds from lighthouse as well as more resistors from digikey and go from there.
For the record, normally you would need a lower resistance for the bleeder to help make the modes work better. I am not surprised at all that 15k on the driver didn’t fix it. That being said, I have never used guppy so I don’t know it does memory.
BLF A6 might cause you even more problems. It definitely takes playing with, there isn’t a 1-step solution to making these things work. Hang in there.
For reference I’m using 120 ohm bleeder resistor on driver and 10K POT on the tail
I’m thinking we can get the same brightness from a lot less battery drain by using XQ-E’s instead of the little 0805’s. They’re a bit more expensive, but maybe it’s worth it?
Possibly.
With the new option from OSHPark we can get thinner boards with double copper!!!