Nichia 219C, testing a 5000K 83CRI emitter, comparing with a XP-G2 S4 2B and other leds

For some reason I had been having a very hard time finding this data. thanks!!

just added another one: Nichia 219B V1 4000K 93CRI :party:

So……in a light with one cell only it’s probably best to use this new Nichia Led, due to the low Vf (3,5V @ 6A) because with one cell the XP G2 S4 would probably reach no more then 4A @ 3,9V……?

Grtz
Nico

Hi djozz,

I’ve just found this picture and it could be the answer to a question that was bugging me for a while. Assuming this is a XP-G2 on the right:
Are there some revisions of the XP-G2 with a different number of “dots” at the die? I’ve swapped some Latticebright with XP-G2 in those violet AA Zoomies (“Ultrafire Q5” or SK72XPE/SK72) and the older one of the XP-G2 has rows of 4/5 dots. The one I’ve just recently bought from Fasttech has more dots per row (6/7) and they are less noticeable, what is a good thing when the light is focused. Another difference is the lack of the small “+” sign on top beside the dome at the newer XP-G2. I was afraid they are fake, but the colour of the base and other characteristics match the known CREE’s I have. Brightness is also on the same level.

I’m wondering if I should use 2 or 3 of this nichias for a mountainbike-helmet-light with a LD-2(M) driver set to 6A. Is it safe to use them constantly for 20 minutes on 2 or 3 amps, if well cooled?
I red that they survive much higher currents for seconds, but has any of you tried them with higher currents for a longer time?

The test in the OP was on a DTP copper board. Assuming such boards, my gut feeling tells me if they survive 10 amps for a short period without damage, they will survive 3 amps, which is well below its maximum output, without problems for a prolonged period.

Well that’s what I think too. Mine are on Noctigon boards. Nichia claims 1.8A maximum (cont.) and 2.4A for peaks. So I will probably try the 3A 8)

I have not had trouble with 12 x 380 ma 7135 in my CNQ.

Okay djozz, I’m relying on your superior understanding of the 219C.

I want to build a triple, and it’s my understanding that a BLF DD driver would not be prudent for this emitter.
In a properly copper heatsinked torch with a regulated driver what do you feel would be the ultimate current to drive this emitter to perfection. I mean getting everything it can give (safely) before it starts playing games?

Edit: or would a DD driver be okay in single cell parallel setup.
And what would be the best in a single emitter light?

I have been running a single 219C with a FET+1 driver in a beater host (one of the fake red S2+ from GB) for the past couple of weeks. I like it. Good tint with power-to-go when you need it.

It does OK with the FET+1 driver, but I would not recommend the simple FET DD drivers. The low modes would be terribly inefficient, with huge PWM current spikes.

My FET+1 driver is set up to use mainly the 7135, with a single turbo mode that uses the FET for DD only. The turbo mode has a 30 s timeout. The driver also steps down when the driver voltage drops below 3.4 V, and this happens very quickly on anything but a fresh IMR/INR cell. I will probably change the step-down to 3.2 V to better match the low Vf of the 219C.

The pill is aluminum, which I suspect is doing better than a brass pill would. The body heats up instantly when going DD, but the current is reasonable. < 5.2 A, even with fresh-off-the-charger 30Qs. Springs will smoke and absolutely needs to be bypassed or low resistance bronze type. Not sure how long the switch will last. I am using 1.5” 22AWG wires.

So guys it should handle 2.8A in thermal modded P60 dropin?
MIke

2.8A through a 219C is a very decent current provided that it is mounted on a dtp copper board. And a triple 219C on a direct driver should be fine too, but very proper heatsinking should be taken care of.

In fact I have a triple 219C with a BLF-A6 driver (direct drive FET+7135) in the titanium Rey-host that has fairly lousy heatsinking. I do not dare running it with a 18650 on turbo for longer than 30 seconds, but longer on a 18350.

This thread is very helpfull.
I made my choice.
The beautiful s4 host(fasttech) a BLF A6 A17DD + 7135 (banggood) and a 219c from intl-outdoor.
And a NCR18650B
It will be a great EDC ;
If diode draw too much amps .I will mod a Nangj for this light.
I want 6.2 amps :bigsmile:

Waiting everything arrive.

Thank a lot for this thread.

Somebody know wherre to buy copper pill for this hoste and I can buy a SMO reflector for it?

@PyroLight: make sure that your heatsinking is very good! And at 6.2A I'm sure the led-lifetime of 50000 hours will not be reached ;-)

It’s because of this I’m searching copper pill for the S4 host.
I find one for S2.
But impossible to retreive the site.

Where did you find the S2 pill?

can’t retrieve the site. I was hopping somebody as the link.

Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/True-Copper-pill-slug-to-install-Carclo-6mm-height-triple-TIR-into-Convoy-S2-S3-/261940436045?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cfcdddc4d
It’s ended and for triple.
Sorry.

If you want 6.2 amps, I expect the NCR18650B is not the best battery.

I bought the BFL Special Edition A6 flashlight. It, of course, uses the same driver you are getting. In the A6, I am running a Samsung 30Q.

Maybe you can adjust the resistance with the springs and wires to get six amps with a particular cell type. More than six would definitely be bad.