Brinyte B158 mod thread

Hello everybody
This is my first proper zoomy and my first attempt to dedome a led. And it all worked out beautifully :slight_smile:
XP-G2 S4 2B dedomed with arctic silver, BLF A6 A17DD-L from BG, 18AWG wires everywhere and I’m reading 4,5A in the tail.


Since I didn’t have heat resistant paint I used black marker and sugru around the led. It should be heat resistant to 180°C (356°F). It’s not pitch black and not 100% matte finish, but I wanted to try it out anyway. Black permanent marker leaves way more reflective surface. The plastic ring is underneath, so it should be 100% reversible, if need be.
And some pictures of my badass amp reading setup featuring X6 in the last picture


Nice :) Your A readings encourages me that my uni-t clamp meter readings could be correct. Which battery did you used?

Really interesting way of tail current readings with analogue meter.

Did you noticed lower A readings when gently pressed? (gentle press on battery - and exposed aluminum = lower A readings, fair and hard press = higher readings)

I knew I missed something…
I used a fresh samsung 25R and amp readings always depend on how good is the contact between the materials. That’s why I wanted to show off my amp reading setup, witch has a really nice flat contact surfaces :wink:
But metal surfaces are never ever 100% flat, so pushing down a bit harder just improves to contact = a bit higher readings.

Thanks, I already removed the driver but the aluminum mcpcb is very hard to remove because of the glue. I already damaged large part of the soft aluminum mcpcb and still it won’t come off.

Mine took a bit of force. You need to find the right-sized thin flat-head screw driver. I worked on several points around the edges and pried. It took me a bit longer than in the video. Even if you damage the board, you can always get another copper board and reflow the LED onto it. Just be patient and work on it slowly.

For stubborn MCPCB's, I've used a screwdriver or nail set and gave it a couple light taps from a hammer on the edge of the MCPCB, sideways force if you can - I think it worked every time for me, to loosen them up.

Yeah the mcpcb was harder than the driver for me. The driver was easy because I didn’t care about saving it. I just torched it until whatever glue/solder that was holding it in went away and it came out pretty easy. The little brass ring stayed right where it was.

Yes guys that is because you don't heat enough pill after driver falls off :)

You would be surprised what heat does to even hardest glues like artic alumina. This on B158 is baby compared to that :)

Edit: Done 2 of them again with same results. MCPCB's almost unglued itself from pill with heat treatment (I just slightly twitched with needle nose pliers), emitters(red) stays on their place (not that I will ever use them :) but they survived).

Nobody commented but Zipelgas method of current measurement looks very good and cheap :). If I only new that before I would not bought uni-t clamp meter cause his method look much simpler and better than clamp meter.

Oh I like it! I wonder how many different lights that rig will work for.

Do u guys understand that amp reading setup? I don't get what it is...

Also,as djozz uses this method - low value high watt resistor (0.01 ohms or so, 50W) in series with the cell, like a DMM, but you measure voltage across the resistor and calculate amps - supposedly more reliable than amp meters, clamp or DMM's. The resistor is anywhere from 5$ to $8 or so. Mouser has a good Vishay Dale one, 1% accuracy, for like $8. I got a 0.1R on order, and got a great quality 2 post connector all set to go in a small plastic enclosure (connector and enclosure provided to me). Thinking the connector will help with the setup.

This is the one I'll get in my next Mouser order: mouser.com RH050R0100FE02, probably can be found else where, just couldn't find it at a good price.

Ohhh - got my B158 today, finally - shipped Dec 7th - gonna open it up in a few...

I like the zipelgas rig- simplicity and ease of use at it’s finest :slight_smile: Besides, I’m a softie for analog meters. I think it goes with me getting old and nostalgic (but not nostalgic enough to fix my Heathkit VTVM and start using it again!)

Phil

Now i successfully removed the mcpcb using the heat method, very easy :bigsmile: . Thanks

I’ve used it on almost every flashlight powerful enough, for me to care about amps and no problems so far. Additionally you can always attach heavy duty leads and use it in whatever situation.
But I don’t want to highjack this mod thread, so I created another with a few more pictures.

For painting the inside of the lens area around the LED, would something like Plasti Dip work?

It is pretty matte and easy to use, doesn’t flake for those using dedomed emitters. If you mask off the LED and spray several layers, the mask pulls off with a clean line when you pull it off wet.

Just asking and I will give it a shot when my B158 gets in.

I tried plastidip spray with my 1405. It wasn’t the greatest, not as matte as I expected. I went with high-heat engine paint for my 158

Goes well with an XP-G2 and 2.8A driver. :slight_smile:

Is anyone selling a complete modded pill?

I put LD-2 driver into the pill add XP-G2 S4 2B de-domed and got 2,10 Amps reading on tail-cup (CAT III 1KV 10 A (silicone leads)
I put also BLF A6 A17DD-L FET driver and got same readings more or less 2 A

Does XP-G2 S4 2B LED, limits amps up 2A ?

Using same setup with xml 2 led both drivers, i got 2,85 Amps max. on tail-cup, It is higher than on XP-G2 S4 2B.
Do i got low amps XP-G2 S4 2B leds ? I want more Amps 4-5A would be great.

The LD-2 has a low resistance fet and will limit current to whatever the sense resistor sets it to but does not take into account parasitic resistance in the host.
Take the tail switch apart and clean it and put it back together.
Make sure you have a good driver ground.
Make sure the pill is screwed in tight and that the end of the tube it is screwed into is not anodized under the brass lip.
Make sure the switch retainer is snug.
Bypass the springs and use fat leads on your meter.