Mine arrived two days ago. Here’s a few thoughts with some photos and crude flux measurements.
Positives:
It is beautifully machined and looks very well made. I would say that it is on a par with other lights I have from Zebralight, Fenix and Sunwayman, apart from some chips which I mention later. I cannot comment on the quality of the anodising.
I ran the torch on turbo with a Keeppower 18650 3100 mah. After a few minutes my subjective impression was that it was as bright as my Sunwayman D80a on high which output 900-1000 lumens. After 5 minutes the head was warm. After 15 minutes the tailcap was also getting warm. After 1 hour the entire torch was very warm, but not uncomfortable to hold. Clearly the heat transfer from the LED is effective, although I have no way of knowing if the LED is overheating.
The light levels are well spaced. A short press turns the light on in moonlight mode. A long press turns the light on at the last used mode. A long press while on turns the light off. A short press while on moves to the next mode, from low to max and then back to low. A double click moves to a disco mode. It is possible to cycle through the disco modes, but as far as I am concerned they are best ignored. A double click exits disco modes. A 10 second press while off switches to pro-mode, which allows programming of the sub-levels.
The clip is well made and very effective, being neither too tight nor too loose. The light came with the clip attached. The tailcap unscrews to reveal the battery chamber. Threads are square cut, and well machined. Internally the tailcap spring and contacts at each end look well made.
Neither positive nor negative:
The battery can be charged while in the light using the USB charging port. I’m not sure this is a good thing, since you are charging something that could vent in an enclosed space. I’m sure others can make more informed comments on this feature, and indicate whether or not it uses a good charging algorithm.
The light is only water resistant to IP6, probably because of the charging port. This is surely good enough for most users, who only need rain resistance, or the ability to wash it under a tap.
The light is programmable, allowing the user to set the various levels. In principle it is a very good idea, but as with Zebra lights, it is not an easy process. Changing from normal to pro mode is easy but the manual does not clearly describe how to select a given sub-level for each level. This German language review does an excellent job of explaining the modes:
In essence you have to switch to pro mode, then switch to disco modes, and click through until you reach the sub-level setting mode. This starts in low, and cycles through the sub-levels. Once you reach the low mode sub-level you want, a short press selects the sub-level, and then moves to the next main level, and cycles through the sub-levels. Thus you may select the desired sub-level for each main level.
Negatives:
Mine came with three chips in the annodising. These were next to the part of the clip that grips the body, suggesting they were created when the clip was attached. I removed the clip, and in doing so created another chip, this time near the Manker logo. I know this does not impact the lights ability to function, but I look after most of my lights, and would prefer it to arrive in perfect condition. It is conceivable that the anodising is rather brittle. I own a Nitecore MT10A, which chips far more readily than other lights. Time will tell if the anodising on the Manker is durable.
The tailcap is hard to remove when the clip is attached, as you cannot wrap your hand around the tailcap and have to grip it with your fingertips. I can see why they designed it as they did, as it allows the light to sit low in a pocket, and not have the end sticking out. I removed the clip. Clearly this won’t be a problem if you charge the battery using the built in USB charge port.
Photos:
With SWM M40A XML U2 and Olight S15:
On its own:
And here are some beam shots with the manufacturers quoted lumens taken in the spare room. Take them with a grain of salt, as the central beam is often burnt out, so these will provide an idea of the spill but not the throw.
Manker Medium 3 = 300 lumens:
Manker High 3 = 600 lumens:
Manker Turbo 2 = 890 lumens:
Sunwayman M40A XML U2 (with DC-FIX frosted film on the glass) Maximum = 650 lumens:
Sunwayman D80A High = 960 lumens:
Sunwayman D80A Medium = 390 lumens:
Sunwayman D80A Low = 33 lumens (probably more like 100 lumens):
Output
I ran the light on Turbo 2 specced at 890 lumens with the Keeppower 18650 3100 mah battery:
Please note that the units are NOT lumens, they are arbitrary units. Measurements were taken using a HS1010 light meter, timed with an analogue watch, so the times are not precise. There is a modest drop in the first few minutes and then almost constant brightness for about 80 minutes, after which the output drops dramatically. I cannot measure the lumens output, but it seems noticeably brighter than my SWM M40A XML which produces roughly 600 lumens. This in my view is extremely good regulation. Clearly lower levels can be expected to be as well regulated.
Conclusion:
This is a well made torch, very bright on max, excellent regulation on the second brightest mode, and with moonlight too. I like the well spaced modes and the programming feature is nice. I would rather Manker did not attach the clip, or if they do, make sure they don’t damage the anodising.
Footnote: I ran the light on turbo with two Panasonic CR123. It got too hot to hold. I also noticed this morning that the Keeppower 18650 3100 mah has a crushed button. I don’t know if this is an issue, but it certainly occurred in this light.